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Peter1Ross P Complete MKV Jetta alternator replacement playbook Hello, I am a long time lurker on this forum. I havent ever really had anything interesting to add until now. Hope this is worth the read. I have scoured the internet and have only found one write-up on this subject. I am a picture person and a novice; although the existing write-up is helpful I needed more pictures and details. I decided to create a detailed play book with more pictures. I went slow, took pictures and labeled everything. I got a clear plastic egg carton, put my bolts in it and made a legend so I knew what went back where. If anyone decides to follows these steps they do so at their own risk. I cannot be held responsible for anything anyone does with this play book. I am not a certified mechanic; this is just what worked for me. I realized this was not something that was very easy to do going in blind. With good preparation it can be done in 3 hrs. I will say that I was at 11.5 hrs total. I spent 4 hrs chasing tools and 2 hrs figuring out the best way to do stuff and 3 hours fussing with belt and tensioners (wish I knew one tensioner moved with some pressure). Since the manifold was off I also cleaned out the soot and grime from anywhere accessible. I should have planned a little better and upgraded my water pump to one with aluminum impellers since everything was torn down. Prior to starting the work on the alternator I checked the 200 & 80 amp fuses and they were fine –last picture at the end (They go bad if you give a jump improperly). I thought from this point I needed to repair or replace my alternator. I removed the battery and battery tray, disconnected all three grounds, cleaned and reinstalled with dielectric grease. The two outer bolts that hold down the tray were badly rusted so they were wire wheeled and repainted with black rust inhibitor. I disconnected the battery and removed it for a fresh charge. I decided to replace the whole alternator with a Napa reman. I will keep mine in case I decide to change the voltage regulator and the pulley. I surely won’t waste my time with parts from AZ or Poop boys, Napa costs a little more but lasts. With all the work involved in removing the old I wouldn’t want to take a chance on having to re-do it anytime soon. Tools I used: Needle nose pliers, Lineman pliers, Channel locks Phillips & regular screwdrivers Pry Bar Socket set (s) ¼ and 3/8 (including extensions) Torx 20, 25, 30 Hex 6 and large extension (very important) 10mm triple square bit Wrench set Dielectric grease Blue painters tape – wrap sharp stuff and temporarily hold stuff in place 2006 2.5 Jetta MKV Alternator replacement steps: 1) Turn the sensor cable free using very light upward force and with a flat screwdriver press down the tab to disengage and unplug the sensor 2) Remove two torx 20 screws from the intake

3) Use a flat screwdriver to press down the tab to disengage and unplug the sensor 4) Pull all four corners of the air filter housing using upwards force (I have only pictured two but you get the idea) 5) Use a Channel Lock to pinch the retainer and work the hose free to remove the air filter housing

6) Move the air filter housing to somewhere safe 7) Remove two torx 25 screws on the housing and put the housing somewhere safe 8) Pinch the ridges on either side the hose retainers and twist downwards and toward the front to remove the hoses and put somewhere safe 9) Use a Channel Lock to pinch the retainer and work the hose free

10) Using a needle nose plier to pinch the retainer and pull it towards the passenger side once the retainer is far enough away gently pull the hose in the same direction while twisting to completely remove 11) Use a flat screwdriver to press down the tab to disengage and unplug the sensor 12) Using upward force gently rock the assembly, wire pack and hoses free of the manifold 13) Using a needle nose plier pinch the small retainers under the rail and gently pull up to free the wire pack 14) Gently roll the hose out of the retainer clips and move the whole assembly aside 15) Use a needle nose plier to pinch the retainer and pull it towards the passenger side once the retainer is far enough away gently pull the fuel hose in the same direction while twisting to remove; ensure there is a container to catch the dribbling fuel (**Do not open the driver door until this hose is re-attached or ensure your battery is not attached**) 16) Using 10 MM triple square aka 12 spline bit to remove the two bolts

17) Detach the two hose retainers 18) Pinch the ridges on either side the hose retainers and twist towards the driver’s side and remove hose 19) Use a flat screw driver to press down the tab to disengage and unplug the injector controllers 20) Remove the hex 6 bolt and wiggle out the sensor (better detail in the next photo) 21) Remove the four torx 30 bolts holding the housing (there is one in each of the corners) 22) Remove the tabs holding the harness then pull then the housing is free to move 23) The bracket can now be removed once the harness for the injectors is moved aside pull forward towards the bumper then up and out towards the passenger side 24) Gently push this retainer clip out the way so the manifold can be removed later

25) Remove 9 bolts with a hex 6 bit 26) Remove the last bolt with a hex 6 bit and a large (12 inch) thin extender 27) Remove the two 1/2 nuts from underneath 28) Carefully drain fuel out of the fuel rail and place whole manifold on top of the engine then pull the manifold toward the bumper and lift the fuel rail side straight up and back towards the bumper careful not to over extend the dipstick housing

29) Remove the top tensioner pulley using a 5/8 socket (see three pictures down for an example of the pulley) 30) Remove the three torx 30 bolts that hold the housing in (see three pictures down for an example of the bracket) 31) Remove the top alternator bolt using a ½ socket 32) Remove the top rear tensioner pulley using a 5/8 socket (easier to access the bottom alternator bolt) 33) Remove the bottom alternator bolt using a ½ socket 34) Remove the alternator lead on the alternator using a ½ socket (see three pictures down for an example of the lead location) 35) Use a flat screwdriver to press down the tab to disengage and unplug the sensor 36) Use a pry bar to loosen the alternator 37) Remove the alternator harness retainer using a ¼ socket when the alternator is loose

38) Clean the frame where the alternator gets attached with a wire brush 39) Clean the alternator lead 40) Test fit the alternator to ensure you don’t have to bang it in 41) Lightly file down the gussets then fit and try until the alternator fits without much persuasion 42) Reattach the alternator harness retainer using a ¼ socket

43) Put some dielectric grease on the alternator lead and reinstall using a ¼ socket 44) Re-seat the alternator and put back the bottom bolt using ½ socket 45) Re install the top rear tensioner pulley using a 5/8 socket 46) Reroute the belt in proper configuration only leave out the rear top tensioner pulley 47) Put a 5/8 wrench over the rear top tensioner pulley and push forward and down this will allow enough slack to loop the belt back over it 48) Put back the top alternator bolt using a ½ socket 49) Install the top tensioner bracket and bolts 50) Pull forward and down on the top rear tensioner pulley again to allow the top pulley to be put back on the bracket 51) Install the pulley and tighten the 5/8 nut

52) Reseat the manifold fuel rail side towards the cabin and other end facing down so as to line up the two bottom bolts and the dipstick housing then attach and tighten the ½ nuts underneath 53) Once seated properly line up the fuel rail side of the manifold and tighten the 10 hex 6 bolts 54) Re install the sensor and hex 6 bolt

55) Notice how much extension I needed to reach the hex 6

56) Reinstall the hose connections 57) Attach hose clips 58) Reinstall the housing and tighten the four torx 30 bolts 59) Attach sensor plug 60) Attach harness clips 61) Loop the bracket under the harness and push into place ensuring the harness clears the bracket and manifold 62) Move the bracket into place 63) Attach bracket with 2 10 MM triple square bolts 64) Attach injector plugs 65) Attach sensor plug 66) Attach harness retainer tabs 67) Roll the hose into the retainers 68) Attach fuel line and clamp 69) Attach hose and clamp 70) Attach assembly to manifold by pushing down 71) Attach sensor plug 72) Attach hoses 73) Attach hose and clamp by pinching with a channel lock 74) Attach housing and 2 torx 25 screws

75) Attach sensor plug and push cable into retainer 76) Attach hose to housing and reinstall two torx 20 screws 77) Attach hose and clamp by pinching with a channel lock 78) Attach sensor plug 79) Push down on all four corners of the air cleaner housing 80) Re attach the battery

Notes: These go bad if you give a jump improperly, I picked up spares from amazon. Amazon search failed for some reason saying they were not a match, but they are a match to what I have. MKV, MK 5 Jetta fuses: 200 amp fuse Blue Sea AMI/MIDI 80 amp fuse Blue Sea 5255 MIDI/AMI

I charged my battery on low at 2amps for a few hours until it was fully charged When I removed anything electrical I cleaned it with a brass bristle brush, rubbed with alcohol and dabbed on dielectric grease Make sure you are 100% sure your battery is not bad before you do all of this *** you will kill a good alternator if your battery is bad*** Need a reading of more than 12.3V on a good battery car off and more than 13V on a running car. #1 · May 24, 2014 (Edited) Complete MKV Jetta alternator replacement playbook Hello, I am a long time lurker on this forum. I havent ever really had anything interesting to add until now. Hope this is worth the read. I have scoured the internet and have only found one write-up on this subject. I am a picture person and a novice; although the existing write-up is helpful I needed more pictures and details. I decided to create a detailed play book with more pictures. I went slow, took pictures and labeled everything. I got a clear plastic egg carton, put my bolts in it and made a legend so I knew what went back where. If anyone decides to follows these steps they do so at their own risk. I cannot be held responsible for anything anyone does with this play book. I am not a certified mechanic; this is just what worked for me. I realized this was not something that was very easy to do going in blind. With good preparation it can be done in 3 hrs. I will say that I was at 11.5 hrs total. I spent 4 hrs chasing tools and 2 hrs figuring out the best way to do stuff and 3 hours fussing with belt and tensioners (wish I knew one tensioner moved with some pressure). Since the manifold was off I also cleaned out the soot and grime from anywhere accessible. I should have planned a little better and upgraded my water pump to one with aluminum impellers since everything was torn down. Prior to starting the work on the alternator I checked the 200 & 80 amp fuses and they were fine –last picture at the end (They go bad if you give a jump improperly). I thought from this point I needed to repair or replace my alternator. I removed the battery and battery tray, disconnected all three grounds, cleaned and reinstalled with dielectric grease. The two outer bolts that hold down the tray were badly rusted so they were wire wheeled and repainted with black rust inhibitor. I disconnected the battery and removed it for a fresh charge. I decided to replace the whole alternator with a Napa reman. I will keep mine in case I decide to change the voltage regulator and the pulley. I surely won’t waste my time with parts from AZ or Poop boys, Napa costs a little more but lasts. With all the work involved in removing the old I wouldn’t want to take a chance on having to re-do it anytime soon. Tools I used: Needle nose pliers, Lineman pliers, Channel locks Phillips & regular screwdrivers Pry Bar Socket set (s) ¼ and 3/8 (including extensions) Torx 20, 25, 30 Hex 6 and large extension (very important) 10mm triple square bit Wrench set Dielectric grease Blue painters tape – wrap sharp stuff and temporarily hold stuff in place 2006 2.5 Jetta MKV Alternator replacement steps: 1) Turn the sensor cable free using very light upward force and with a flat screwdriver press down the tab to disengage and unplug the sensor 2) Remove two torx 20 screws from the intake

55) Notice how much extension I needed to reach the hex 6

15 Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · May 24, 2014 This is a really good dyi, plenty of pics and details...good job op #3 · May 24, 2014 thanks op. was thinking about this the other day ..getting up in mileage and know that's its only a matter of time lol. #4 · May 24, 2014 Thanks, I hope it helps out. Without the extra long extension and the 12 spline/triple square bit I would have been s.o.l. #5 · May 25, 2014 07 Jetta Alternator Replaced my alternator a different way. Remove the following... - Plastic tray/shield under engine. - Front Bumper (skin) - Passenger side headlight It's tight, but very doable. Once the alternator is unbolted, pull it up and out through the headlight opening. Shouldn't take more than 2 or hours tops. #6 · May 25, 2014 (Edited) Wow. just compared your post for the 2.5 to my TDI and take back everything I might have posted. On a TDI, you could change the alternator in under an hour. Great DYI though. Would it have been at all possible to change the regulator with the alternator still in the car? #7 · May 25, 2014 Thanks, I think it is possible if you can remove the bracket that holds the manifold in place. My super shiny new alternator seems not to be working. I may try the easier underneath way this time around. 0 Reply #8 · May 26, 2014 (Edited) No way you'll be able to get it done from underneath unless you get the ac pump out of the way (even if you move the bracket). It might take an hour and fifteen if all the tools are already prepped to replace the alternator. You'll still need about 45 minutes to get everything buttoned back up. I went back for a second round and it is still fresh. I was moving pretty fast and it too an hour and fifteen just to get to the alternator. #9 · May 27, 2014 Thanks for all the help. I'm potentially looking at a replacement coming up soon, so this is great info #10 · May 28, 2014 Thanks and Good Luck! A few hard lessons I learned: Have a voltmeter and ensure your battery is good, a bad battery will kill a good alternator (12.6V min on non running car) Find a reputable guy that rebuilds starters and alternators and try to get your alt rebuilt or find a new Bosch. Without a 10mm triple square and a very long extension you wont get too far. *The top rear pulley moves, that will make belt replacement easier. 0 Reply #11 · Jun 10, 2019 How common is it to file down the gussets? Im currently replacing my alternator and the top holes are lining up but the bottom is not going so well and i'm wondering what i can do to get it to fit. #12 · Jun 10, 2019 The bushing / sleeve needs to be pushed back out about 4mm to allow space for the reinstallation just be careful not to break the mounting ears. Sometimes they are just frozen solid and you can then use the file. 0 Reply Insert Quotes Post Reply

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