Skip to main contentSkip to navigationClose dialogue1/18Next imagePrevious imageToggle captionSkip to navigationView image in fullscreenTourists entering Pi Leh Bay on Thailand’s Phi Phi Leh island in longtail boatsBefore the pandemic, Phi Phi national marine park, with its white sandy beaches and coral reefs, attracted more than 2 million visitors a year. Until it was closed, Maya Bay’s dazzling beauty and Hollywood fame drew up to 6,000 people a day to its narrow 250-metre-long beachPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenTourists arriving at the pier in Tonsai village on Thailand’s Phi Phi Don island.Inevitably, so many people arriving in noisy, polluting motorboats with so little control over numbers had a huge impact on the area’s delicate ecologyPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenTonsai village on Thailand’s Phi Phi Don island. ‘The coral cover has decreased by more than 60% in just over 10 years,’ says Thon Thamrongnawasawat of Kasetsart University in Bangkok. As early as 2018, Thon raised the alarm and pushed the authorities to close part of the bay. Then the pandemic hit and visitor numbers dwindled to virtually nil as Thailand imposed tough travel rules, putting the entire archipelago into a forced convalescence. As a result, dozens of blacktip sharks, green turtles and hawksbill turtles have returned. And whale sharks … have been spotted off the coast.’Photograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenTourists posing for photos with their mobile phones on a beach on Thailand’s Phi Phi Don islandPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenTourists sitting in a speedboat as they visit Pi Leh Bay on Thailand’s Phi Phi Leh island. Boats will no longer be allowed to moor near the beach and will instead drop tourists off at a jetty away from the cove. Tours will be limited to one hour, with a maximum of 300 people per tourPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenTourists in a longtail boat visiting Thailand’s Phi Phi Leh island. ‘Maya Bay used to bring in up to $60,000 a day, but this huge income cannot be compared to the natural resources we have lost,’ Pramote said. The number of visitors will be regulated on other key sites of the archipelago, while boats anchoring on reefs and tourists feeding fish face $150 fines. Some of the first foreign visitors to return to the area are happy with the new, more exclusive approachPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenA conservationist looking at coral in the sea off Thailand’s Andaman coast. ‘Everything suggests that there is more reproduction, especially among sharks, which particularly appreciate calm waters,’ says Thon. As for the corals, ‘more than 40% of the fragments replanted in Maya Bay have survived, a very satisfactory figure obtained thanks to the absence of visitors’. But recovery will be slow: at least two decades will be needed to restore the coral reef, Thon warnsPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenMarine biologist Kullawit Limchularat and other conservationists releasing bamboo sharks, raised at the Marine Discovery Centre. Kullawit’s mission is to repopulate the reefs after years of damage caused by uncontrolled visitor numbers, a crisis that got so bad the authorities were forced to close Maya Bay itself in 2018Photograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenA conservationist cleaning a tank of bamboo sharks and eggs at the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village resort on Thailand’s Phi Phi Don islandPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenConservationists carrying a box containing bamboo sharks from the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village resort on Thailand’s Phi Phi Don island off the Andaman coast before they are released into the seaPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenMarine biologist Kullawit Limchularat carrying in a plastic basket bamboo sharks, raised at the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village resort, before releasing them into the sea off Thailand’s Ko Ma island on the Andaman coastPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenA conservationist holding a bamboo shark egg at the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village resortPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenA bamboo shark, raised at the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village resort, on the seabed after being released into the sea. They are reluctant to swim out among the clown fish, barracudas and turtles. ‘They need time to adapt. We waited until they reached 30 centimetres to maximise their chance of survival,’ says Kullawit, who is working on the project with the Phuket Marine Biological Centre. ‘The aim is that once they are adults, they will stay and breed here to help repopulate the species.’Photograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenConservationist inspecting bamboo shark eggs at the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village resortPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenBuddhist monks resting in a longtail boat as tourists snorkel in Maya BayPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenTourists taking photos with their mobile phones as they ride in a longtail boat during a visit to Pi Leh BayPhotograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareView image in fullscreenA cat sitting on the shore in front of anchored longtail boats. ‘We didn’t just come to dive in the turquoise water. We also want to help,’ says Franck, a visitor who has just arrived from Paris. ‘It would be fantastic if the island stayed this quiet.’Photograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty ImagesShareExplore more on these topics