Photo Image File Formats, TIF, JPG, PNG, GIF. Which To Use?
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This JPG compression risk degree is selectable (with an option setting named JPG Quality in your editor seen as you save the file). High Quality means lower JPG compression for higher quality larger files. Or you could choose a Lower Quality, to be higher JPG compression for smaller files but lower image quality. Small file size and high image quality are opposites. Your digital camera offers that size choice too, the menu usually called Image Quality (you do of course want to select best quality in the camera). In general today, JPG is rather unique in this regard, of using lossy compression allowing very small files of lower quality, whereas almost all other file types use lossless compression (with larger files). The meaning of Lossy and size is discussed more on another page at JPG Artifacts.
Greater JPG compression is used when small file size (for email transfer or web pages, memory cards, etc) is more important than best image quality. You will have to decide if smaller file storage is more important than a larger better quality format that might be important archived for a later time (storage space is inexpensive today). A High Quality setting to create JPG is good enough in most cases, if we don't overdo the compression. Perhaps good enough for some uses even if we do overdo it (web pages, etc). But if you are concerned with maximum quality for archiving your important images, then you do need to know two things: 1) JPG should always choose higher Quality and a larger file, and 2) do NOT keep editing and saving your JPG images repeatedly, because more quality is lost every time you save it as JPG (in the form of added JPG artifacts ... pixels become colors they ought not to be - lossy). More at the JPG link at page bottom.
To prevent continued edits from adding JPG artifacts, keep edits in a TIF format until time to create a final JPG, and perhaps archive that TIF file too, for any future use. Writing a TIF file will NOT remove any existing JPG artifacts from the image, but it will not add any more of them. This need will be recognized as quite important after you have failed to do this for some important image you needed again, but didn't have. The camera will do one JPG Save (if not Raw) and the final JPG file for use will do another, but using the TIF file for all edits limits that to only those two JPG Saves. I don't necessarily mean EVERY image, since we do shoot a lot of junk never to be seen again, but I mean those obviously good and important images that you conceivably might want again in the future. Prepare them for that and save their fate.
JPG2 There is a format called JPG 2000 with .jpg2 files. It uses a different compression without the JPG artifacts, but its blur typically reduces image sharpness. Little used, and few programs support it, so it is likely incompatible with most programs. Web browsers don't show JPG2 files.
TIF format is very versatile. There are many TIFF formats for all kinds of data and compressions. CCITT data for standard text document storage, which supports multiple pages in one file. Standard fax is another TIFF format. Designers can be assigned special data tags to declare other data and compression types. One case is that some camera Raw files are actually TIF format, but with unique proprietary data tags for their special purpose, which then is no longer compatible with TIF viewers.
We could argue that there really is no concept of RAW files from the scanner (scanner images are RGB, not raw). Vuescan does offer an output called RAW, which is 16 bit, but is still RGB, not raw like from cameras. The difference is that that option only defers gamma correction encoding until a later pass. And its file can include the scanners fourth Infrared noise correction channel data if any. Vuescan itself is the only post-processor for these Vuescan raw files (except any Photoshop-like Levels control can adjust gamma). But scanner color images are already RGB color, instead of Bayer pattern raw data like from cameras.
Camera RAW images are not RGB, and must be converted to RGB for any use (our monitors and printers expect RGB images). The idea and big advantage of camera raw is that all camera and JPG processing options (such as white balance and contrast) are deferred until later, when we can see the image to decide what it precisely needs without having to undo JPG processing. That makes it better, and much easier to get it right. Then the converted RGB image can be saved only one time as high quality JPG (no JPG artifact issues). When and if the image needs additional processing, we discard that JPG copy and resume from the raw archive original.
I strongly recommend always archiving your original unedited JPG image from camera or scanner. If you have made changes, that's the only way to get the original JPG data back. Especially for JPG, archive the first pristine copy (but camera Raw files are not editable, so they are always pristine unless you delete them). Your download folder should be your permanent archive location of the camera's unchanged original file, and edited copies go elsewhere. Good practice is when editing that image, always save any change to a different file in a different location, always, preferably to a TIF file. Never overwrite or delete your only camera original file. Always keep that pristine original, because you can't otherwise go back. Because there could be times when you realize the edited image is damaged, especially important on the really special ones. JPG especially, each JPG compression is lossy. If you did edit that original JPG file a few times, for white balance, brightness, resampling or cropping, JPG quality suffers with each new JPG compression (lossy), and it is irreversible if the original image is lost. You can't go back, so don't risk destroying your pristine original image. Any work should only make a copy. Beginners tend to worry about the disk space used by that archive, but this is just the nature of the game, JPGs are small anyway, and disks are inexpensive (a 4 TB Western Digital USB 3.0 external drive is about $100 USD). Disk space becomes a trivial concern. Retaining your original image is not trivial. Make a frequent backup too, onto another disk. It's a choice of being safe now, or sorry later.
A few features of common file types | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
File Property | JPG | TIF | PNG | GIF |
Web pages can show it | ALL | ALL | ALL | |
Uncompressed option | Yes | |||
Lossy compression | ALL | |||
Lossless compression | Yes | ALL | ALL | |
Grayscale | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
8-bit RGB color (24-bits) | ALL | Yes | Yes | |
16-bit RGB color (48-bits) | Yes | Yes | ||
CMYK or LAB color | Yes | |||
Indexed color option | Yes | Yes | ALL | |
Transparency option | Yes | Yes | ||
Animation option | Yes |
The term ALL means it is the only option. Yes means it is an available option. Blank means there is no option.
Different color modes have different size data values, as shown.
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