Serpentine Belt Replacement Guide? - Volvo Performance Forum

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Unruled U Hi guys, On wet day starts my car screeches like a banchee, disappears when you blip the throttle. Now I know you guys don't really tend to have the diesels but I'm wondering if anyone has or has access to replacement manuals from VIDA? I'm 90% sure it's the serpentine belt as screeching is kind of their thing, but if I want to replace it in an afternoon I'd like to do that with a guide

It's a 2.0D PSA engine, 2006 and if that's relevant, pre-DPF. Thanks in advance! Luuk #1 · Apr 19, 2017 Hi guys, On wet day starts my car screeches like a banchee, disappears when you blip the throttle. Now I know you guys don't really tend to have the diesels but I'm wondering if anyone has or has access to replacement manuals from VIDA? I'm 90% sure it's the serpentine belt as screeching is kind of their thing, but if I want to replace it in an afternoon I'd like to do that with a guide

It's a 2.0D PSA engine, 2006 and if that's relevant, pre-DPF. Thanks in advance! Luuk Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Apr 19, 2017 Depending on the quality of the accessory belts, they can slip when cold. I would recommend the gates century belts if you can get them for your diesel. If that doesn't solve your problem then you've got a tensioner getting weak and you should replace asap. Assuming the diesel belts are in the same configuration as the petrol ones, the tensioners have large torx that you use to relax the tension off the belts and then slip them on and off. Easy job, takes longer to get the inner fender off than change the belts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk #3 · Apr 19, 2017

mercdude said: Easy job Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Click to expand...

I'd like to point out that getting the crank -> AC belt on can be a bitch. It is a very tight fit. Also, the torx holes in the tensioners strip out very easily. Easy job if all goes well, but a bear if something goes wrong. 0 Reply #4 · Apr 19, 2017 So it is easy to determine if your belts are screeching - one morning, put some dish soap or rub some bar soap on each side of the belt. If the screeching goes away, you know it's the belt. If it doesn't, then you know it's one of the tensioner arm's bearings (but listen to confirm it). Best part is it washes off with a little water and they are no worse for the wear. Replacing the belt is easy, remove the fenderwell and use a T50 with a 4-6 (100-150mm) extension and a ratchet to press in and turn. The reason people say it strips out is because they stop pushing inward when they twist. You have to do both at the same time and keep pushing inward. It is a one hand job though, leaving the other hand free to pull the belt towards you and off the tensioner wheel. From there you can release your hand with the ratchet and let the tensioner slide back into place, then just pull the belt off one pulley at a time. If you happen to strip it out, two screwdrivers, one to lift up on the arm and one to force the belt off the arm will work just fine. Same thing for the second belt (the alternator/AC pulley one) but it's pretty easy to pop it off the tensioner first, then the AC pulley second and then bring it up and outward through the top and around the Alternator pulley. reverse goes for install. I tend to put the belts in place and then twist the tensioner and slide the belt over the tensioner wheel then release it. It allows you to finger feel and make sure the belts are in the correct spot before putting tension on them. You have two options if your tensioners are going bad, VIDA says 10 year replacement, but for the most part as long as they don't throw a belt, they're ok. You can buy wheels/bearings for about $15 if it's a bearing going bad on you. They're just an unbolt and reassemble process. However, getting the AC/Alternator tensioner out requires dropping the passenger side motor mount and lowering the engine a few inches to pop out. Buy OEM if you're getting full tensioners. I bought the INA ones and the first time I twisted it to release tension and the the bit ate into the tensioner. Second and third time made it worse. As for bearings/wheels, TIMKEN and TORRINGTON are two good brands if you can get them, but most of them will be INA, and they're ok, but they're not sealed so you'll need to pop them open and service them at 50,000mi or so if you want them to last. #5 · Apr 20, 2017 If I'm looking at the correct engine. D4204T it's very simple. A single belt. The tensioner has a hex instead of Torx. Remove engine cover. Turn tensioner anti-clockwise to de-tension. Use a 4mm drift to hold tensioner open if you wish while you wrangle the belt off & on.

#6 · Apr 20, 2017 Yup it's a D4204T, does it say what size hex I need? T50 I have but I don't think I have a comparable hex lying around :rolleyes:

Awesome thanks guys, should be a doddle it looks like

The entire set is 50 euros with a new tensioner so I think I might as well replace that bearing just to be sure the noise goes away. #7 · Apr 20, 2017 No size specified. I would recommend the kit as well. To avoid ever touching the hex... If you buy the kit you could cut the belt. Remove tensioner. Make sure you insert the drift into new tensioner assembly using a bench vise to hold the hex while you twist the assembly. Install tensioner. M10=50nm M8=24nm. Install belt. Pull drift. I can't image you don't have the proper hex lying about though. #8 · Apr 20, 2017 One belt...lucky dog... Insert Quotes Post Reply

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