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jays0578 J Ok I am putting coilovers on my GTI today, so I went to the stealership and picked up the stretch bolts I needed. The parts guy/mechanic says that I don't need to replace them unless they look bent or broken. He said that they don't replace them when they do work on the cars. Any input on this? Who changes the TTY bolts every time they do suspension work? #1 · May 30, 2014 Ok I am putting coilovers on my GTI today, so I went to the stealership and picked up the stretch bolts I needed. The parts guy/mechanic says that I don't need to replace them unless they look bent or broken. He said that they don't replace them when they do work on the cars. Any input on this? Who changes the TTY bolts every time they do suspension work? Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · May 30, 2014 The stealership parts guy told me that they sell cv axles at dealer price but they source them from carquest. Talk about overhead. When I reinstalled my drivers side cv axle I didn't replace the bolts at the transaxle, later on 3 of them fell out while I was driving. I suggest that any bolts that the bentley says to replace every time should be replaced just for good measure. I mean I'm sure not everyone does, but it couldn't hurt, and you will be avoiding any risk of failure. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: #15 · May 30, 2014

RedSprankles said: In my own opinion I feel that if you get new hardware, mounts and bushings for an install, then you know its right and you didn't compromise on anything. Safety is number one, or it should be at least :laugh: Click to expand...

Listen to these guys...

jays0578 said: I had a few people suggest that to. Just changing the front 18mm's. Thats still 20 bucks for 2 bolts and nuts. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk Click to expand...

If you're car is at, around, or over 100k miles and you've never replaced the stuff before, you probably should. You might as well do the bushings and bearings in the front and bump stops in the back; at the least. 0 Reply #3 · May 30, 2014 That's what I figured. I wonder how many cars come back with missing bolts. #4 · May 30, 2014 Yeah, all the bolts that are TTY are important too. The mechanics at the stealership generally just do as they are told, and you know the dealer wants to save money, so I wouldn't even trust them to have changed things they've charged for. I won't allow anyone else to work on my cars, with the exception of alignment, but even then I know the alignment shop very well. Nobody is going to treat your car like you do, so I always assume its best to do the work myself and ensure that everything is done proper the first time so that its safe. I was naive when I first got my 20th and rebuilt it, so I didn't replace the TTY for the axle, but when it failed, I replaced the 6 triple square bolts, and the 17mm hex bolt that holds the axle in the hub, torque to spec. Cant afford to lose stuff like that at 75 on the freeway. sorry for the rant. :thumbup: #10 · May 30, 2014 Haha once changed a cv axle in a parking lot at -30 Celsius didn't change the bolt and didn't torque to spec (was in a rush freezing cold plus i had a Christmas dinner to go to) well i learned my lesson when i lost 5 bolt and snapped the remaining one leaving my friend place a month after :banghead: 0 Reply #5 · May 30, 2014 all stretch bolts should be replaced every time no matter what. Will you have an issue if you don't, probably not, but would you want to chance it? There is a reason the workshop manual says to replace them. The dealership is just asking for trouble by not doing the work right, makes you wonder what other kinds of corners they try and cut. #6 · May 30, 2014 Ya that's the same dilemma I'm in. I'm going to be putting an H&R cup kit in my jetta soon and I was hoping to avoid having to buy the install kit. My buddy works for a vw dealer in the parts dept and said that the shop often reuses bolts from suspension. I was talking to some buys on here though and I think I agree when they recommend just doing it right and making sure you use new hardware. I'll probably have to break down and buy the install kit just to be safe. #7 · May 30, 2014 In my own opinion I feel that if you get new hardware, mounts and bushings for an install, then you know its right and you didn't compromise on anything. Safety is number one, or it should be at least :laugh: #8 · May 30, 2014 I just don't get how expensive the bolts are and the dealership never has all of them in stock. And yes safety first, better to only have to do it once :thumbup: #9 · May 30, 2014 which bolts exactly are we talking about here? 0 Reply #11 · May 30, 2014 I didn't. Only bolt I actually replaced was both 18mm's for the front struts. #12 · May 30, 2014 I replaced all mine. Loctite isn't a bad idea either. #13 · May 30, 2014 I had a few people suggest that to. Just changing the front 18mm's. Thats still 20 bucks for 2 bolts and nuts. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk #14 · May 30, 2014 Those will be the ones that are the most rusted. It's worth it. 0 Reply #16 · May 30, 2014 Most know that when you remove the pinch bolt and nut, you should NOT reuse it. They are torque to yield bolts. So instead of giving the dealership or online vendors that will rape you in shipping charges, I came up with this. What's needed. Dremel with sanding disks 2- 1/2 - 13x3in. Grade 8 bolts ($1.57/ea) 4- 1/2 grade 8 washers (sold in 3pk $0.94) 2- 1/2-13 nylon locking nuts ($1.18) Total $7.38

Obviously you need to jack up the car and remove the wheels, and remove the Oem bolts and nuts. Now take your dremel and clean up the inside where the bolt slides through. You want the bolt to be able to slide through with no resistance.

Next you need to grind the washers flat on a side. This is so the fit nice on the sides of the knuckle.

Now put a washer on the bolt first then slide it through the knuckle. Put another washer on and finally the nylon locking nut.

Now you have a nut and bolt that you can reuse more than once. Oem torque specs is 44ft. lbs. and a 1/4 turn. A little anti-seize on the bolt probably would not hurt either.

#17 · May 30, 2014 ^thats a pretty good idea! #18 · May 30, 2014 You can reuse the crap out of it. The nylon nut wears out first. But still much cheaper than one time use bolts. I was removing my suspension almost every weekend to experiment with the coilovers. #19 · May 31, 2014 Cant tell how may times I have reused this bolt on my car and took my coils in and out. I have never had an issue and my car has been lowered for over 10 years. Only thing I replace is the bolts for the ball joint because of placement #20 · May 31, 2014 bolts Ok, first off, what bolts are you talking about? If you're talking about the subframe bolts to remove the passenger side strut, STOP! Just put the spring tool on the strut, in the car and compress the spring. Don't mess with your subframe. When you install the coils, just spin the lock nuts way down and they'll slide right in. If your talking about the pinch-bolts on the shock mount, I'd just buy them for $10 from VW. Personally, I just reused mine because I was in a rush. Also, I never knew the pinch bolts were stretch bolts. I also like the guy who made his own. But bear in mind, they're NOT stretch bolts, just hardened. Really, while these bolts can be considered critical, if one failed I don't think much would happen . . . Don't lose too much sleep over it. I still like the MK3s which had 2 sets each side, but I digress. When I did my motor mounts and LCAs I went for like $30 in bolts! That sucked. The ones I took out (and saved for spares) looked fine. Most guys say you can re-use the stretch bolts 2x. TomJV Insert Quotes Post Reply

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