The Complete Stick-and-Poke Tattoo Guide For Newbies - Byrdie

Stick-and-poke tattoos, also called hand-poked or machine-free tattoos, tend to have a punk, DIY vibe associated with them due to their modern origins in underground culture. You might assume stick-and-poke tattoos consist of basic, minimal designs (and many do), but they can range in complexity from a simple dot to a deeply detailed, intricate piece. Regardless of how they look, stick-and-poke tattoos come with the pride of having a more intimate, simple feel—and as long as you go to a reputable professional, they're usually no riskier than a regular machine tattoo. Ahead, learn everything you need to know about stick-and-poke tattoos, from what makes them unique to the pain level to how to take care of them.

Meet the Experts

• Burak Noire is the owner of Fleur Noire Tattoo, with studios in New York and Los Angeles.
• Yoyo Lee is an artist specializing in hand-poked tattoos at Ten87 Studios in London.
• Cozmo Faris is an Atlanta-based professional piercer with more than 12 years of experience. He also teaches for the Association of Professional Piercers (APP) and is a member of Byrdie's Beauty & Wellness Board.

What Are Stick-and-Poke Tattoos?

Stick-and-poke tattoos are a form of non-electric tattooing—that is to say, there’s no tattoo machine used. Instead, your artist applies ink to the skin by hand by attaching a needle to a rod-like contraption, much like a pencil and thread (professionals use a tattoo-grade needle), to create an analog tattoo machine. Basically, stick-and-pokes are exactly what they sound like: "Generally, when someone says stick-and-poke, they are referring to a tattoo that is made by hand by dipping a needle into ink then 'poking' it into the skin, versus using a machine to depress the needle," says professional piercer Cozmo Faris.

The hand-poke process originated from traditional forms of non-electric tattooing across cultures that were generally used in connection to community or religion. The single-needle and ink process dates back as far as ancient Egypt, as mummies were found to have intricate tattoos on their arms, shoulders, and abdomen. The modern stick-and poke-movement, however, is attributed to 1970s skate and punk subculture, in which using sewing needles and India ink to DIY a tattoo was popular.

These days, stick-and-pokes continue to have a revival among millennials and Gen-Z, but various associated tattoo trends are also cropping up. "I honestly believe it's stippled art that is popular, not necessarily stick-and-poke tattoos themselves," Faris tells us. "The two things just often look very similar."

Where to Get a Stick-and-Poke Tattoo

The most important thing to know about getting a stick-and-poke is to be sure you find a reputable artist to ensure that high-quality, sterile tools and ink are used. "Going to any highly rated, reputable tattooer who actually works in a proper tattoo studio should be a safe bet," Faris tells us. "You are likely better off going to a tattooer who is experienced in slowing down the speed of their tattoo machine to make the same stippled look most people are after versus getting an actual stick-and-poke, though. Tattooers have gotten really good at pulling that trick off, and it makes the process more efficient and less painful."

People get stick-and-pokes for any number of reasons—the aesthetic, a deeper connection to the tattoo, or general preference over a traditional tattoo—but the pursuit of a bad tattoo is never one. If you ever see someone using a sewing needle or the space isn’t clean, don’t get any tattoo or piercing in that location. "Please never get a stick-and-poke tattoo in a friend's kitchen, or underground so-called private studios. It is still a serious procedure," says tattoo artist Burak Noire, owner of Fleur Noire Tatoo.

What Pain Level to Expect

Just like a machine tattoo, stick-and-pokes hurt differently for everyone depending on placement, design, and pain tolerance. I personally have two stick-and-poke tattoos on my inner ankles. While the first one hurt, the second one was less painful than some of the machine-done tattoos on my arm.

Some people think the pain isn’t as bad as machine tattooing, while others find it to be worse. "In my experience, it was about twice as painful as traditional tattooing, but your mileage will vary," Faris tells us. "Everyone experiences pain differently." It’s all about whether you prefer one needle moving moderately slowly into the skin or a bunch of needles moving quickly at once—it’s completely dependent on your own tolerance.

Stick-and-Poke Tattoos vs. Machine Tattoos

Stick-and-poke tattoos and traditional machine tattoos are similar in quality, with the main differences being in method, pain level (depending on the person), and aesthetic. "Traditional tattooing is faster, often less painful, and often more sharp or 'clean' looking," Faris says. "Some really want the [somewhat] rougher, more 'homemade' look of stick-and-pokes, though. Pick your poison, I suppose."

How Long Do Stick-and-Poke Tattoos Last?

A common misconception is that a stick-and-poke doesn’t last as long as a machine-done tattoo. The truth of the matter is that if your stick-and-poke starts to fade or generally diminishes in quality, it likely means that your artist was inexperienced and/or didn’t use the proper procedures.

Tattooing is, at its core, the same idea regardless of the method: You’re inserting a needle with ink into your skin over and over again to create a design. The trickiest part for any hand-poke artist is pushing the needle into the skin, just deep enough for the ink to take. If it’s too deep, you’ll get a blowout, which means the lines blur together and feather out. If it’s not deep enough, the ink won’t stay at all.

As long as the artist uses safe, clean tools and knows what they’re doing, your tattoo will last like any other design. "Much like diamonds and Wu-Tang, they are for forever," Faris says of stick-and-pokes' longevity.

Are Stick-and-Poke Tattoos Safe?

As tattoo artist Yoyo Lee notes, stick-and-pokes are generally as safe as machine tattoos, if done correctly. In some cases, they're actually even easier to take care of: "The healing process is usually shorter and more comfortable, because there's no intense itchiness," Lee says.

That being said, approach stick-and-pokes with the same vigilance as any other body art, and by that, we mean seek a professional. "As long as the tattoo procedure is in a hygienic environment with single-use disposable instruments, professional tattoo equipment, and a trained and licensed artist, stick-and-poke tattoos are safe," Noire says. A DIY stick-and-poke could mean pain, infection, and undesired art that will be on your skin forever.

Be sure when considering a given studio that it looks clean and professional, and don't be afraid to ask your artist questions about their procedures if you aren't sure. "Hygiene is everything," Lee says. "That means sterile tools, single-use needles, gloves, a sanitized workplace, and your tattoo artist should have all the necessary certificates and knowledge in cross-contamination."

How to Prepare for a Stick-and-Poke Tattoo

Beyond ensuring you're going to a reputable artist whose designs you like, there's not much you need to do ahead of your tattoo appointment. "The tattooer generally will shave and clean the area," Faris says. "You will want to show up to your appointment well-fed and hydrated, though."

Stick-and-Poke Aftercare

Stick-and-poke aftercare is generally the same as aftercare for a machine-done tattoo, but hand-poked ink may not scab as much and likely won’t take as long to heal if done properly. "Typically, two to three weeks is standard," Faris says of the healing time. Your artist will most likely wrap your tattoo once it’s done, but if they don’t (or you didn’t heed our advice and went to an amateur), make sure the fresh tattoo is covered for two hours or more.

"Even though the technique is different, the main purpose of the aftercare is still taking care of the reaction of skin after ink and needle penetration," Noire says. Faris agrees: "[It's the] same as standard tattoos, really," he says of what to do during the healing process. "You'll want to keep it clean, moisturized, and out of unhygienic bodies of water like lakes, pools, and hot tubs for the duration of healing." A few more specific tips are as follows:

• Keep it covered: "You should keep the bandage on the period of the time your artist recommends (three to four hours or three to four days, depending on the type of the bandage)," Noire says.
• Clean and moisturize the area: Once the wrap is taken off, you should wash the inked area with a gentle, unscented cleanser, then moisturize with a tattoo-specific lotion or Aquaphor.
• Avoid sun and water exposure: Your tattoo and the surrounding area of skin will both be extra sensitive while healing, so don't irritate it unnecessarily. Be sure to keep the tattoo out of the sun and don’t submerge it in water during its healing period.

The Final Takeaway

Stick-and-pokes are a great way to explore a different way of tattooing and gain a sense of aesthetic pride along the way. Given how long they have been around, they're safe and high-quality as long as you go to a professional at a reputable tattoo studio, so it's definitely worth a try if you've found an artist you like and want to experience this tattoo method. Who knows—you may even end up preferring the process to machine-done tattoos.