Volvo C30 Transmission Fluid Change - SwedeSpeed

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C30 (2007-2013)

Keaton322

Hi this is my first post here, I have a 2011 Volvo C30 t5 AT and I’m trying to change the transmission fluid inside since it’s at around 124,000 miles on it, I was able to drain the fluid but I cannot, for the life of me, find the ATF fill port on the car, it’s starting to worry me quite a bit, so I thought I’d just ask. Thanks!!! The videos I have watched have showed the plug ar different spots then what u have On my end #1 · Jul 19, 2022 Hi this is my first post here, I have a 2011 Volvo C30 t5 AT and I’m trying to change the transmission fluid inside since it’s at around 124,000 miles on it, I was able to drain the fluid but I cannot, for the life of me, find the ATF fill port on the car, it’s starting to worry me quite a bit, so I thought I’d just ask. Thanks!!! The videos I have watched have showed the plug ar different spots then what u have On my end Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jul 23, 2022 Crawl under the front and lie flat on your back looking up to the sky. It's just left of centre. The yellow dipstick is the fill port. Easiest way to fill is from underneath using a handheld oil transfer pump. Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design

#3 · Jul 23, 2022 Here's the location of the dipstick, There's no need to remove the airbox (I was doing other work when I took this picture).

When I filled the transmission, I did it through the dipstick tube with a long neck funnel like this one:

The inside diameter of the dipstick tube is 1/2 inch. #4 · Jul 24, 2022 As you can see from my photo, on the T5 C30 you can't actually see the top of the dipstick without relocating the wires / hoses the are mounted directly above it. I think other P1 models are easier due to fewer cables in this area. #5 · Jul 24, 2022 Both of my cars (2.4i and T5) have those wires partially hiding the dipstick. I found that with the 2.4i it's easier to see and reach it from above, because the ECU is thinner. With the T5, the ECU is a little bit thicker it's also possible to do the same, with a little bit more difficulty. But after I installed a ECU spacer on mine, I can't reach it anymore. But still can see it though..... 0 Reply #6 · Jan 8, 2023 (Edited) Ok, so I'm about to drain the trans fluid on my 2011 C30 so I can swap out the axles. From everything I've read, it really only take 4 quarts of 3309 fluid? It seems like so little... Also, does the car need to be level when I drain/fill the fluid? I am going to try and measure what comes out of the trans so I don't over fill it. I believe I found the drain plug - quite obscure, but the green line must be an indicator. Filling this thing is going to be... fun. It'll also be easier once I pull out the air system to investigate an oil leak somewhere on the front of the engine. My main concern is making sure I don't overfill the trans, and try to get out as much of the old oil as I can. ETA: Is that drain plug really a 24mm?? The one close ended wrench I don't have?? Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Tread Grey

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Tread Grey

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tread Hood Motor vehicle

#7 · Jan 9, 2023 (Edited) You don't need to drain the fluid to swap the axles. Automatics will not leak trans fluid when the axle is removed. Total oil capacity for the AW55-51SN is 8.18 qts. Dipstick difference MIN-MAX is 0.31 qts. Each time you drain the trans fluid, you only get to drain approximately 50% of the total capacity. Because the rest is inside the torque converter and other parts of the hydraulic system. If you want to renew the trans fluid, drain it on a pan, making sure to capture all of it, measure and refill with the exact same quantity of new fluid through the dipstick tube. Drive the car for a couple days or approximately 20 miles to allow the new fluid to fully mix with the old one. Then repeat the cycle at least 2 more times. For each drain and refill you’ll want to have at least 5 qts of new fluid and that will renew the existing fluid to around 50%. So, a quick math says: 1 time will renew the fluid to ~50% 2 times will do at ~75% 3 times will do at ~87.5% 4 times will do at ~93.75% I think is not worth it to do it more than 3 times. Because you'll be using almost 4.5 qts to get 6.75% of fluid renewed. Too smal of a benefit, to be honest. After the 2nd drain and refill, you’ll need to reset the transmission fluid life counter with an advanced scanner or VIDA. These cars use JWS3309 transmission fluid: Examples are (from cheapest to expensive): 1) Toyota Type T-IV ATF 2) Mobil-1 3309 3) Aisin Type T-IV (P/N: ATF-0T4) 4) Volvo 1161540 (very unlikely to be cheaper than any of the rest) You could either take it to a shop, but make sure they use the correct fluid. If possible, you bring the transmission fluid .. DO NOT let them use a universal transmission fluid. There’s a special procedure to check the oil level. These are the instructions copied from VIDA: Oil Check Conditions: The difference between MAX and MIN volume is 0.3 liters. Check the oil temperature in the transmission. At room temperature (+20 °C) the oil level is near the MIN marking on the "cold area". At room temperature (+20 °C) and low oil level the oil barely reaches the dipstick. The "cold range" (+40 °C) is reached after approximately 15 minutes idling in the workshop, while the "hot range" (+80 °C) is reached after approximately 30 minutes highway driving at an air temperature above +15 °C. Note! Carry out the check at an oil temperature of +80 °C. Go to car communication function group 4. Select the digital display parameter. Select the parameter for the transmission oil temperature.

Preparing to check the oil level - Position the car on a hoist. - Apply the parking brake. - Apply the foot brake. - Let the engine idle. - Set the gear selector in position P .Move the gear selector through the various gear positions, stopping for approximately 3 seconds in each position. - Return the gear selector to position P. Wait 2 minutes before checking the oil level. Checking oil level - Allow the engine to idle with the gear selector in position P. - Raise the vehicle. Remove the splashguard from under the engine. - The dipstick must be pushed down completely in the dipstick tube. - Caution! Wipe off the dipstick with a nylon cloth or similar. Do not use a rag which may leave lint or threads. #8 · Jan 9, 2023 Thank you Facusan! I already drained the oil and replaced the axles. I read on many sites that the oil did need to be drained, but after removing the axles, I saw no indication that there was oil there. That's a bit frustrating. Do I run any risks by only replacing half of the oil? Meaning, since I drained the oil as it was, once I top it off to the appropriate level, is there any risk to only doing this procedure once? I do not have access to a lift (I wish I did) to go through the rest of the procedure you outlined. Thank you again for the information! This is getting bookmarked! #9 · Jan 10, 2023 It depends on the the condition the fluid that came out of the transmission was. If it was ok, then it shouldn't be a problem. But if it was really bad, then you should do at least 2 drain and refills more and reset the transmission fluid life counter with a scanner. You don't need a lift to do this. I've done it on my driveway with jackstands and with ramps. Just remove the ECU cover and look down, you'll see the yellow trans dipstick. Use a funnel like this one to fill up the trans: (link here)

#11 · Jun 23, 2023

Facusan said: It depends on the the condition the fluid that came out of the transmission was. If it was ok, then it shouldn't be a problem. But if it was really bad, then you should do at least 2 drain and refills more and reset the transmission fluid life counter with a scanner. You don't need a lift to do this. I've done it on my driveway with jackstands and with ramps. Just remove the ECU cover and look down, you'll see the yellow trans dipstick. Use a funnel like this one to fill up the trans: (link here) Click to expand...

Is it a big deal if I do a drain and fill without resetting the fluid life counter? Don’t have a scanner and don’t know anyone with one. Will a generic ODB scanner I can rent from advance auto be able to do this? I’m betting my fluid hasn’t been done and I’m at 110k miles but this car has been surprisingly solid despite a rebuild and a near kaput ball joint so I’m a bit hopeful. 0 Reply #10 · Jan 10, 2023 The fluid that came out was still red, not pink and not burned, but darker. No bad odor either, which makes me very happy. I'll start off with the one change, and if things don't seem right, then I'll do it again. That's good to know about just doing it in the driveway. I have the car on stands in the garage.

I am working on trying to remove the air system anyway as I have a small oil leak on the front of the engine somewhere that I would like to find, but damn, it's not easy figuring out how to get everything out of there... No good tutorials I've found show everything. Thank you again Facusan! #12 · Mar 9, 2025 Question regarding fluid level. I have a 2011 C30 T5. Went through the procedure described here of draining via the plug and the flushing via input through the dipstick and output via the cooler return port. I was careful to replace the same amount of fluid after each flush (4 quarts/3.8 liters after draining, and about 80 ounces/2.4 liters for the subsequent two flushes. Then ran the car at idle for about 15 minutes, cycled through the gears and checked the dipstick. Fluid is at the top mark in the hot zone. I then drained about 28 ounces/.82 liters, cycled through gears and check the stick again. I'm still at the top of the hot zone. Note that I don't have a DICE/VIDA kit to check the fluid temp. The car temp gauge is in the middle and I'm pretty sure I am in the warmed up but cold stick reading temperature zone. The fluid in the car and the new fluid were about the same temp. I am checking the dipstick with the engine off. Any ideas about why there seems to be too much fluid in there. I can keep draining but not seeing any movement after removing 28 ounces makes me wonder if I am missing something. #13 · Mar 9, 2025

charges said: I am checking the dipstick with the engine off. Click to expand...

That's the problem, you're supposed to check the oil level with the engine idling. Check the instructions in my post above (#7) Show more replies 0 Reply #14 · Mar 9, 2025 And I wouldn't bother refiling via the oil cooler port, to avoid to mess with the plastic line. It can be done via the dipstick tube (much easier with the long neck funnel). #16 · Mar 9, 2025 Yes. I'm refilling via a funnel/hose into the dipstick port. 0 Reply Insert Quotes Post Reply

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