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As they mature, the pythons will usually change color to a variation of green or blue — however, some green tree pythons will keep that yellow coloration for their lives. San Francisco garter snake. Most have longitudinal stripes in many different colors. Common garter snakes come in a wide range of colors, including green, blue, yellow, gold, red, orange,.Snakes are pretty simple to keep as pets, which makes them very attractive to the reptile owner. They require minimal handling, feeding, and overall care, which is a plus in many people's books.Pet snakes are also usually pretty robust and healthy, but like all animals, they are subject to several common health conditions, even if you keep them in optimal conditions.Remember that depending on what species of snake you keep, the husbandry and overall care are going to vary, so make sure that you fully understand the husbandry of the particular snake species you have. Proper husbandry and care can be the biggest factor in preventing health concerns, although not eliminating them 100%.First, you'll want to be aware of the signs of a healthy snake, which include:.Clear eyes. Clear nose and mouth.Rounded and full body. Alertness and activity. Regular eating. Healthy skinNext, understand the common signs of health issues:. Wrinkled or rubbed skin. Vomiting.Discharge in nose or mouth. Lethargy. Abnormal feces or urine. Decreased appetiteHere are the common illnesses of snakes, in alphabetical order. AbscessesAbscesses are generally caused by a previous injury that gets infected by bacteria. An abscess usually appears as a lump that protrudes from underneath the skin and sometimes extends into the internal organs.Abscesses are commonly confused with tumors, un-laid eggs, or constipation. Leave it to an experienced vet to determine whether the lump is truly an abscess. If it is, let the veterinarian treat it, which tends to involve lancing and draining the abscess, with at least one follow-up appointment for cleaning and changing the dressing.The vet may also opt to treat the abscess with an antibiotic. Blister DiseaseBlister disease can be avoided with proper husbandry. Fluid-filled blisters will usually form on the underside of a snake housed in a dirty, moldy, or overly moist substrate. Blisters may be few at first, but then quickly grow in number and become life-threatening, especially if they spread near the mouth, nose, or cloaca.The best treatment is to prevent blister disease from developing. Keep the substrate clean and dry. Make sure to remove feces and urates. Change the bedding frequently.You can treat one or two blisters at home by sterilizing a needle and piercing the blister; use a clean cotton swab or a bandage to absorb the fluid.Make sure to swab the blisters twice a day with betadine or hydrogen peroxide, and apply an antibiotic ointment. House the snake in a quarantine tank on paper towels until the blisters have healed.If there are multiple blisters, or the blisters are in sensitive areas, consult a reputable vet as soon as possible. ConstipationDepending on the size of your snake and his metabolism rate, it may take longer than you expect for him to complete the digestion process, but if you notice that his defecation schedule is way off, your snake may be constipated.A constipated snake may appear bloated and lethargic and have a decreased appetite. Make sure to check the cage thoroughly just to make sure that you didn't miss anything. If you are sure there are no feces in the enclosure, you'll want to soak the snake in warm water for about 15 minutes a day. Usually, the warm water will stimulate excretion; if not, and you notice that your snake is swelling in the abdominal area, you'll want to visit a vet as soon as possible.Built-up feces can become so impacted that surgery may be the only option to keep the snake from dying.You snake may have ingested a foreign object which could be blocking him from defecating. Cuts and AbrasionsTreat any type of cut on your snake just as you would on yourself.Keep it clean and put a small dab of antibiotic ointment once a day until the wound has healed. You can try to bandage the snake, although this may be nearly impossible; you may want to consider a waterproof band-aid. Not all cuts need a bandage. Set the snake up in a quarantine tank with paper towels so that nothing can irritate the wound.Try to find out what cut the snake, so that you can prevent it from happening again. If it was a rostral abrasion, caused by the snake rubbing his face on the wire of the cage while trying to escape the enclosure, you want to either cover the screen or change the type of enclosure you're using.The other common cause of a cut or abrasion is rat bite, so switch to frozen feeders or pre-killed food. Inclusion Body DiseaseIBD is probably one of the most serious diseases of captive snakes. It is only found in the boid family, and most common in Burmese pythons and boa constrictors. Although the signs are varied, you'll want to look for neurological disturbances (such as not righting itself when on its back, 'star-gazing,' unresponsiveness, regurgitation, asymmetrical dilation of pupils, and paralysis) and for tumors and other illnesses. If you think that your snake has IBD, isolate it immediately, and consult a reptile vet as soon as possible. Although there isn't any treatment for the disease, you need to quarantine the snake away from other snakes and either bleach or discard the enclosure so as not to pass the disease to other snakes.This illness is just one of many reasons to quarantine new snakes for at least 90 days. Internal ParasitesUsually, you'll encounter internal parasites among wild-caught individuals. A snake can pick up internal parasites from its prey or from contact with another infected reptile.This is another great reason to quarantine new individuals. Common signs of internal parasites include regurgitation, lack of appetite, and an overall unwell appearance. If you think that your snake has parasites, take a fecal sample to your vet. He may prescribe a treatment or refer you to an over-the-counter worm treatment for cats and dogs. But NEVER use these without the supervision of a reptile vet.Mites and TicksMites will appear as tiny, fast-moving dots on the outside of your snake and within his enclosure, and can be either red, black, or white. Getting rid of mites is a bit complicated. Soak the snake in a warm bath for a few hours, or until you are sure that all the mites have fallen off and drowned. While you wait, completely disinfect the enclosure and everything that you had inside it. You may have to do this a few times before you are able to successfully get rid of the mites.Ticks are larger, and usually fewer in number; they tend to remain attached to the snake's body, usually buried between the scales. The safest way of removing ticks is to smear petroleum jelly thickly over the entire tick, especially the head, as this will suffocate it enough to make it let go of the snake.Don't remove a tick with tweezers because you could 1) damage the snake's skin or 2) leave the head still attached, which leaves the snake open to infection. RegurgitationRegurgitation is commonly caused by stress, handling too soon after a meal, improper husbandry, or an undiagnosed illness.Wait at least two days after feeding your snake before you try to handle it; moving it from a feeding cage to its permanent cage is fine, but do nothing else. Make sure that your snake has a nice warm spot to lie in after eating, to aid digestion; low temperatures can cause regurgitation. Food that is too large is also commonly regurgitated, so make sure not to feed prey items that are larger than the girth of the snake.If you think that your snake may have some other illness, take him to a vet. You shouldn't take regurgitation lightly, especially if your snake has regurgitated his meals on multiple occasions, as this can lead to a psychological problem that causes the snake to avoid that particular type of food. Respiratory IllnessFor the most part, respiratory illnesses can be prevented as long as you follow proper husbandry requirements and provide a clean, warm, stress-free environment. But, if you notice signs of coughing, wheezing, open-mouth breathing, runny nose, clicking noises when breathing, and lethargy, a respiratory illness may be the cause. In this case, immediately raise the temperature in the enclosure to stimulate the proper immune responses, move the snake to a quiet room (if it's in a busy area of the house) away from other snakes or reptiles, setting it up in a quarantine enclosure with paper towels.If it's a minor infection or illness, the snake may overcome it on its own; otherwise, if the condition worsens, consult your vet as soon as possible. Shedding Problems (Retained Eyecaps or Tail)When there are shedding concerns, usually hydration is the problem. If the snake is not properly hydrated, he may suffer retained skin on his eyecaps or tail. Make sure that you raise the humidity at the first sign that your snake is going to shed. When you notice that your snake's eyes are turning a blue shade, either 1) mist the enclosure twice daily, 2) put a larger water bowl in the enclosure, or 3) begin soaking the snake in warm water once a day.Some snakes will always have shedding problems because they require a dry environment or because of an old injury. When these snakes shed, check the skin to make sure that it all came off in one piece. If the tip of the tail is not shed, it can restrict blood flow, and the tail may need to be amputated.So if the tip of the tail is still stuck after a few sheds, you need to remove it. You also need to make sure that the eyecaps were properly shed, as retained eyecaps can cause infection. Usually, if the snake retains his eyecaps during one shed, they will come off on the next shed, but that is not always the case.To remove an eyecap, you can take a piece of tape and remove most of its stickiness by pressing it onto a clean surface and removing it over and over again. Then, lightly touch the tape to the snake's eye and gently try to remove the eyecap. You may want to moisten the eyecap with a dab of water or mineral oil first.If you have any problems, or you're nervous about removing the eyecap yourself, consult your vet. StomatitisStomatitis, more commonly referred to as mouth rot, is pretty common among captive reptiles. It's caused by bacteria in the mouth that get into an open wound, causing infection within the lining of the gums and mouth, and potentially the entire digestive tract. Signs of mouth rot include swelling or color change in your snake's mouth and gums, gaps in the snake's mouth when it is closed, or frequent rubbing or opening its mouth.You want to keep the bacteria in the enclosure to a minimum so to prevent infection, so make sure to clean the entire enclosure regularly, provide fresh water, and eliminate any source of injury to the mouth or the surrounding area.Put the snake in a quarantine enclosure with paper towels and clean the mouth with a cotton swab dipped in 1% Betadine solution.Make sure that the snake doesn't swallow any of the Betadine or any infectious material by keeping his head downwards while flushing out his mouth. If the condition doesn't improve within one week, consult a vet. Ive had my pet corn for about 4 years or so, she's around 6 years old now. Ive never had any issues with her feedings, we always give her small to medium sized live rats and shes always really quick at getting the job done.Well this afternoon we gave her a rat and she didn't get it properly, she had it by the top of the head by its ears and struggled for quite some time then let it go.I had noticed blood in her container i feed her in, so I thought it was the rats but it wasn't, the rat got her on the body. Im not so worried about that now because as shes in her tank i noticed her opening and closing her mouth consistently so i sat and watched for a bit.Her tongue is coming out from under the hole where it should come out, I've never seen anything like this and I'm not sure what i can do for her.I'd appreciate some insight if anyone has any, thanks. My snake that is usually very energetic, isn't moving much at allTheir is two of themIt's 2 of them one of them is called stormy, aged 3 I think and the other is called army and he is around the sameExtra information about themThey are cornsnakes and haven't been fed in a while, they are usually fed a mouse every 2 weeks and they seem fine but they ain't been fed for a little bit more than 2 weeks, also they were let go roam around on the grass in the garden for a little bit just over a week agoPlease help me.My snake that is usually very energetic, isn't moving much at allTheir is two of themIt's 2 of them one of them is called stormy, aged 3 I think and the other is called army and he is around the sameExtra information about themThey are cornsnakes and haven't been fed in a while, they are usually fed a mouse every 2 weeks and they seem fine but they ain't been fed for a little bit more than 2 weeks, also they were let go roam around on the grass in the garden for a little bit just over a week agoPlease help me. I have a 4 year old Corn Snake Monty about 3 weeks ago i fed her a mouse that was a litttle to big well she never did swallow it.After that i tryed feeding her a normal size mouse for her she killed it never swallowed it. So i did some researchand i thought maybe she was frightned from getting a big mouse then i tryed feeding her pinkie she wouldny touch them she still hasnt ate well i started noticing Randomly she would open her mouth like she was yawning and sometime i notice her like (whiping her nose on her skin) i can deffinately tell something is wrong Any Ideas that maybe someone xould please help me? Figure out the best solution please?. I just recently purchased a female ball python from someone.She is 9 months old. When I got her she was in a tank with a sheet. She hadn’t eating in three weeks, and I know the habit that she was living in wasn’t good for her. The problem is her tail has a white tip and it looks swollen. Her spine is a tad bit visible, and she has a few small healed wounds on her. She won’t eat.She looks like she wants to shed, but she hasn’t had the chance to. My girl and I are trying to make her as comfortable as possible to do so. Is their anything else that we can do to get her health back on track, and how long will that take.Okay im really worried, my orange dream spider ball is acting strange with something i cant seem to find online, she's not very old about 8 months old, she's very healthy, eats well, skin is fine, but she's making a very funny noise and is very very loud, its like a diarrhoea sound but i noticed her mouth was open i don't know if she was coughing? If snakes cough. This lasts about 20 seconds maybe? She seems fine after But i have no idea whats wrong with her, she's done this twice since i fed her. I really want to know whats wrong its really worrying me:( i don't know if this is just diarrhoea, if she's sick, or anything else. The temperatures on either end of the tank are perfect, humid levels are good and the water bowl is always fresh. Tank is always clean.Can someone please help me understand what this is?. Hello I have a juvenile Colombian red tailed boa and recently moved well she went in her tank for the night in our new place and she was fine but within a week her pupils have dilated and haven't gone back to normal and she seems more grumpy.She's never once in her life huffed at me and shedisd repeatedly when I tried to take her out to inspect her. She also has this bruise like spot near her end tail and her scales are like bending away from her body. I'm really really worried about her and haven't taken her to the vet yet as I'm waiting for my tax return do you think I need to take her ASAP or do you have any idea what's wrong with her?.I have a 1 year old ball python. We have had here about 6 months or so. She has been a great pet but kinda moody at times, to me it seems like a bit too moody for a snake supposly raised buy humans.my question is. The past month or do I have noticed that her skin is grayish and her eyes have a haze over them. We called the pet store and they wasn't to helpful. She hasn't shed in quite a while. I know she will shed when she gets ready.But it's been a while. Any answers will help. She has gotten to be part of the family and we don't want anything to happen to the ol girl. Hi, You seem to be very knowledgable. I am very worried about my snake. We have had him for 6 years and he has done very well in 3 moves (2 of which were across the country) We have been very carefull to do regular feedings, and we watch his shedding everytime to ensure it goes well.His last shedding did not go well (NONE of the skin came off) so we bathed him and assisted the shedding and he seemed happy for 2 days, We went to feed him as he is usually read to heat about week after a shedding and he did not eat his mouse, instead he is eating the substrate, (eco-earth for reptiles). And I mean MOUTHFULLS of it. We thought he had done it by accident so we left him alone as the bath and assitance seemed to stress him abit on the first day, but I think overnight he has eaten alot of substrate as his mouse was untouched and he is looking much thicker than normal. I am trying to find a good vet that can see him urgently as I don't want him to die (hes been with us for 6 years and was our first pet together) but most of the vets I've called are not as familiar with Reptiles. I will be calling the local reptile shop later today to see if they have the name of a good vet we can take him too but I am desperate and I am hoping we can help him before we take him to the vet.His enclosure is heated via a pad heater under the terrerium, and misted regularily, and his water is changed regularily as well as filtered to ensure it is clean at all times. We have always used the same substrate and this substrate was only put in just before Christmas. He had one successful shedding after christmas, and he normally eats a mouse every 3-4 weeks.My husband has a redtail boa thats about 5 to 6 ft long. She eats 2 large or jumbo rats a month. She had not pooped for a month or so until tonight. We soaked her in a luke warm bath with green tea for about 15 minutes.She had a movement but afterward her neck area and body has gotton swollen. This has never happened before and i cant find any information about it.Now after the movement she is very calm and inactive. Any advice or comments on the swelling? Also we massaged her around her anal area lightly while soaking her.Any help would be great! I was recently given a 3 year old female red tail because she was being neglected. She had mites really bad when i got her, and hasn't eaten in 3 months. I got her mites under control within the first few days, and she shed shortly after, but the shed was incomplete and inPieces. She shed her eye caps, but not her nose pathways, and when I removed the nose covers noticed her nostrils are plugged up.When she breaths it sounds like she's hissing. Any suggestions on clearing up her air pathways so she can breath properly? I have a feeling this issue has a huge impact on her not eating, can't smell the food etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Show Details NecessaryHubPages Device IDThis is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons.LoginThis is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service.Google RecaptchaThis is used to prevent bots and spam. AkismetThis is used to detect comment spam. HubPages Google AnalyticsThis is used to provide data on traffic to our website, all personally identifyable data is anonymized.HubPages Traffic PixelThis is used to collect data on traffic to articles and other pages on our site. Unless you are signed in to a HubPages account, all personally identifiable information is anonymized.Amazon Web ServicesThis is a cloud services platform that we used to host our service. 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Say MediaWe partner with Say Media to deliver ad campaigns on our sites.Forked tongue of a Carpet Python (Morelia spilota mcdowelli)A forked tongue is a tongue split into two distinct tines at the tip; this is a feature common to many species of reptiles. Reptiles smell using the tip of their tongue, and a forked tongue allows them to sense from which direction a smell is coming[citation needed]. Sensing from both sides of the head and following trails based on chemical cues is called tropotaxis.[1] It is unclear whether forked-tongued reptiles can actually follow trails or if this is just a hypothesis.[2][3][4]Forked tongues have evolved in these squamate reptiles (lizards and snakes) for various purposes. The advantage to having a forked tongue is that more surface area is available for the chemicals to contact and the potential for tropotaxis.[5] The tongue is flicked out of the mouth regularly to sample the chemical environment. This form of chemical sampling allows these animals to sense non-volatile chemicals, which cannot be detected by simply using the olfactory system.[6][7][8] This increased ability to sense chemicals has allowed for heightened abilities to identify prey, recognize kin, choose mates, locate shelters, follow trails, and more.[9]Forked tongues have evolved multiple times in squamates. It is unclear, based on the morphological and genetic evidence, where the exact points of change are from a notched tongue to a forked tongue, but it is believed that the change has happened two to four times.[10][11] A common behavioral characteristic that has evolved in those with forked tongues is that they tend to be wide foragers.[12][13]Hummingbirds also have tongues that split at the tip.[14]Galagos (bushbabies) have a secondary tongue, or sublingua, used for grooming, hidden under their first.[15]

Usage as First Nations cultural term[edit]

The phrase 'speaks with a forked tongue' means to deliberately say one thing and mean another or, to be hypocritical, or act in a duplicitous manner. In the longstanding tradition of many Native American tribes, 'speaking with a forked tongue' has meant lying, and a person was no longer considered worthy of trust, once he had been shown to 'speak with a forked tongue.'[citation needed] This phrase was also adopted by Americans around the time of the Revolution, and may be found in abundant references from the early 19th century — often reporting on American officers who sought to convince the tribal leaders with whom they negotiated that they 'spoke with a straight and not with a forked tongue' (as for example, President Andrew Jackson told the Creek Nation in 1829[16][17]). According to one 1859 account, the native proverb that the 'white man spoke with a forked tongue' originated as a result of the French tactic of the 1690s, in their war with the Iroquois, of inviting their enemies to attend a Peace Conference, only to be slaughtered or captured.[18]

Literary usage[edit]

There are appearances of the phrase 'forked tongue' in English literature, either in reference to actual snakes' tongues, or as a metaphor for untruthfulness, such as a sermon by Lancelot Andrewes, who died in 1626:'And he hath the art of cleaving. He shewed it in the beginning, when he made the Serpent, lingnam bisulcam, a forked tongue, to speake that, which was contrary to his knowledge and meaning, They should not die; and as hee did the Serpents, so hee can doe others.'[19]The phrase also appears in Milton's Paradise Lost:'According to his Doom: He would have spoke,But Hiss for Hiss return'd with forked TongueTo forked Tongue, for now were all transform'd...'[20]

See also[edit]

• Tongue splitting (a surgical procedure)
• Dicroglossidae, family of frogs commonly called the fork-tongued frogs

References[edit]

1. ^Schwenk, K. 1994. Why snakes have forked tongues. Science 263:1573-1577.
2. ^Kubie, J. L., and M. Halpern. 1979. Chemical senses involved in garter snake prey trailing. Journal of Comparative and Physiological Psychology 93:648-667.
3. ^Waters, R. M. 1993, Odorizedair current trailing by garter snakes, Thamnophis sirtalis. Brain Behavior Evolution 41:219-223.
4. ^Parker, M. R., B. A. Young, and K. V. Kardong. 2008. The forked tongue and edge detection in snakes (Crotalus oreganus): an experimental test. Journal of Comparative Psychology 122:35-40.
5. ^Cooper, W. E. 1995a. Evolution and function of lingual shape in lizards, with emphasis on elongation, extensibility, and chemical sampling. Journal of Chemical Ecology 21:477-505.
6. ^Baxi, K. N., K. M. Dorries, and H. L. Eisthen. 2006. Is the vomeronasal organ system really specialized for detecting pheromones? Trends in Neurosciences 29:1-7.
7. ^Shine, R., X. Bonnet, M. J. Elphick, and E. G. Barrott. 2004. A novel foraging mode in snakes: browsing by the sea snake Emydocephalus annulatus (Serpentes, Hydrophiidae). Functional Ecology 18:16-24.
8. ^Schwenk, K. 1995. Of tongues and noses, chemoreception in lizards and snakes. Trends in Ecology & Evolution 10:7-12.
9. ^Schwenk, K. 1995. Of tongues and noses, chemoreception in lizards and snakes. Trends in Ecology & Evolution 10:7-12.
10. ^Schwenk, K. 1994. Why snakes have forked tongues. Science 263:1573-1577.
11. ^Townsend, T. M., A. Larson, E. Louis, and J. R. Macey. 2004. Molecular phylogenetics of Squamata: the position of snakes, Amphisbaenians, and Dibamids, and the root of the squamate tree. Systematic Biology 53:735-757.
12. ^Schwenk, K. 1994. Why snakes have forked tongues. Science 263:1573-1577
13. ^Cooper, W. E. 1995b. Foraging mode, prey chemical discrimination, and phylogeny in lizards. Animal Behaviour 50:1709-1709.
14. ^Bill Hilton Jr (2007-06-12). 'Hummingbird Internal Anatomy and Physiology'. Operation RubyThroat: The Hummingbird Project. Hilton Pond Center for Piedmont Natural History. Retrieved 2008-02-13. The tongue itself splits in the floor of the mouth
15. ^Monkeyland. 'Bushbaby - Galago moholi'. Meet Our Primates. Monkeyland Primate Sanctuary. Archived from the original on 2007-10-22. Retrieved 2008-02-13. equipped with a second, pointy tongue underneath their normal one
16. ^Niles' Register, June 13, 1829
17. ^Foster, Thomas Flournoy (1830). Speech on the Bill to Provide for the Removal of the Indians, West of the Mississippi: Delivered in the House of Representatives of the United States, May 17, 1830. D. Green. p. 11.
18. ^Transactions of the New York State Agricultural Society, Vol 19, 1859, p. 230.
19. ^Andrewes, Lancelot (1632-01-01). XCVI. Sermons. R. Badger.
20. ^Milton, John; Rice, John (1766-01-01). Paradise Lost ... With notes of various authors, by John Rice. London.

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