Jolene82J Rebuilding the engine and while I have it out, I figured I’d go ahead and replace the fuel pump. any recommendations appreciated. Currently running off the stock mechanical but open to electric if anyone can convince its worth the extra effort. #1 · Jul 24, 2021 Rebuilding the engine and while I have it out, I figured I’d go ahead and replace the fuel pump. any recommendations appreciated. Currently running off the stock mechanical but open to electric if anyone can convince its worth the extra effort. Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jul 24, 2021 I'm a big fan of electric pumps. When you mount them back by the tank they suffer less from vaporlock issues. Vaporlock in the fuel line occurs when the fuel inside the line gets hot enough to vaporize. Usually when parked & re-started hot, or in slower speed hill climbing situations. A fuel pump won't pull vapor, which is what a mechanical mounted to the engine has to do. An electric mounted at the tank pushes cool fuel from the tank through the line & clears a vaporlock situation. You don't hear much about vaporlock anymore & I think that's because of the industry changeover to in-tank electric fuel pumps. Electric pumps are self priming too. The Carter P4070 has a good reputation for longevity & is low pressure for carb use. Way back when I had a couple of Holleys fail & swapped to Carter with good success. Both Holleys quit in the rain. I think water splash killed them, which is something that shouldn't happen to something designed for automotive use. I haven't ever had that issue with a Carter. Some guys run both electric & manual together, but I think it's a bad idea. If the manual fails & leaks into the crankcase, the engine will still run because the electric keeps pumping fuel to the carb. But fuel mixes into the oil & damage can occur before you realize that it's happening. I prefer an electric by itself. It used to be difficult to find a fuel pump block off plate for a small block Ford. It seemed like they thought only Chevy guys were doing mods. I found that a big block Chevy plate fit a small block Ford with a very small amount of hole filing. The Chevy plate was easy to find everywhere back then. I don't know today. I haven't thought to look, but I wonder what Ford did when they converted to electric? Did they use a fuel pump block off plate, or did they re-design it so there wasn't an opening? #5 · Jul 24, 2021
El Kabong said: I haven't thought to look, but I wonder what Ford did when they converted to electric? Did they use a fuel pump block off plate, or did they re-design it so there wasn't an opening? Click to expand...
Less pertinent to Broncos but it appears the 460 timing covers, at least thru ‘91, were the same as a mechanical pump except the opening isn’t complete and the holes aren’t tapped. From a 1991 E-350. 0Reply #3 · Jul 24, 2021 The later timing covers were redesigned without the fuel pump mount. Im running a mechanical pump for a 390 on my 300. The PO put a Carter electric pump in line as well. I never run it unless vapor lock becomes an issue, or to clear bad fuel from the tank. I would go electric with a return style adjustable fuel pressure regulator. #4 · Jul 24, 2021 Yo J, As El Kabong advised and; use a lot of this info from Holley such as; "PUMP MOUNTING AND INSTALLATION: The best location for mounting any electric fuel pump is the rear of the vehicle, near the fuel tank and in a position even with or below the bottom of the tank, allowing the fuel to be gravity fed to the pump. The pump should be mounted on a solid member, such as the chassis, with the pump outlet pointing forward or upward. Avoid exposure of the pump and fuel lines to moving parts and to any hot areas, the exhaust manifold. The pump should not be mounted in an enclosed area, such as the vehicle’s trunk. Follow the steps below for mounting the pump. WARNING! THE PUMP MUST BE PLACED WHERE INTERFERENCE BETWEEN THE VEHICLE’S BODY AND ITS CHASSIS MOVEMENT IS AVOIDED. THE PUMP AND ITS CONNECTING HOSES MUST NOT BE SUBJECTED TO LOW GROUND CLEARANCE, WHERE ANY FLYING ROCKS OR ROAD DEBRIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE. FAILURE TO AVOID THESE HAZARDS WILL LEAD TO PUMP DAMAGE, WHICH COULD RESULT IN FIRE AND/OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH. 1. Select a mounting site as close as possible to the fuel tank and away from possible sources of heat as detailed previously. 2. A template of the pump mounting holes is included on the last page. Use the included paper template and drill (4) ¼ holes. 3. Mount the pump (outlet pointing forward) using (4) ¼ bolts (bolts not included). NOTE: To ensure pump life and flow efficiency, a 100 micron pre-filter must be installed between the tank and the pump inlet. The filter should be supported in such a manner that it does not hang from the fuel lines. Pre and Post filters can be mounted directly to the pump if space allows. 4. Install the recommended AN fuel fittings. (Refer to the chart on page 1 for minimum recommended fuel fitting and hose size) 5. Connect the fuel supply line from the tank to the pre-filter and then to the inlet port of the pump. Connect the main fuel feed line to the outlet port of the pump, then to the post filter. See Figures 1a and 1b. NOTE: Avoid unnecessary restrictions, such as sharp bends and undersized fuel fittings and hoses. Avoid routing fuel lines in areas that would cause chafing. All fuel line connections must be leak proof. WARNING! IF SPLICING INTO EXISTING FUEL LINES, USE EXTREME CARE TO AVOID CONTAMINATING THE LINE WITH RUBBER OR METAL SHAVINGS, AS THIS WILL DAMAGE THE PUMP. IF THE FUEL LINE HAS BEEN CUT, IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT IT BE CLEANED TO ENSURE THAT NO METAL OR RUBBER PARTICLES ENTER THE FUEL SYSTEM. THIS IS PERFORMED BY BLOWING THE LINE CLEAN WITH COMPRESSED AIR. HOLLEY DOES NOT RECOMMEND THE PROCEDURE WHERE THE COIL WIRE IS DISCONNECTED, THE ENGINE IS CRANKED, AND THE FUEL IS COLLECTED IN A CONTAINER. SPARKING CAN OCCUR DURING THIS PROCEDURE, WHICH MAY RESULT IN A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. WARNING! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FITTINGS ON THE FUEL PUMP. TORQUE the fittings in the pump as follows. (-8AN to 270-300 in./lbs. and -6AN to 150-170 in./lbs.) USING A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WITH A FUEL PUMP: NOTE: A return style fuel pressure regulator is required for use with the Holley HP fuel pumps. Please refer to the chart on page one for recommended fuel pressure regulators. Refer to figures 1a,and 1b,for recommended plumbing scenarios. . NOTE: Refer to the installation instruction included with the fuel pressure regulator for steps on mounting and adjustments NOTE: Depending on your application, choose one of the following examples: WARNING! USE A MINIMUM OF 12 GAUGE WIRE. BE SURE TO CRIMP OR SOLDER ALL CONNECTORS SECURELY AND CLEAN ANY AREA WHERE GROUND LEADS WILL BE FASTENED. FAILURE TO USE THE MINIMUM WIRE GAUGE COULD RESULT IN A PUMP MALFUNCTION AND/OR ELECTRICAL FIRE, RESULTING IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH. There are 2 methods to wire the pump: (1) To wire the fuel pump with a relay. (2) To wire the fuel pump with an oil pressure safety switch and relay. "...WIRING THE FUEL PUMP WITH A RELAY: NOTE: You will need Holley Fuel pump relay kit P/N 12-753 or equivalent 4-wire relay. 1. Disconnect the cables from the battery. 2. Mount relay on firewall of engine compartment or other suitable location using a sheet metal screw. WARNING! Before punching or drilling a hole in the firewall, make sure you know what is on the other side to avoid puncturing equipment such as heater cores, air-conditioning system equipment, hoses, or wiring. 3. Plug the fuel pump relay harness into the relay, until it locks into place. 4 4. If using a Holley relay, connect the black wire of the relay harness to a good clean ground using 12 gauge wire. 5. Connect the Green/Black wire of the relay harness to a switched 12V source. 6. Connect one of the red wires of the relay harness to the positive wire (red wire) of the fuel pump. 7. Connect the black wire of the fuel pump to a good clean chassis ground using a ring terminal. 8. Attach the in-line fuse holder to the remaining red wire. After attaching the fuse holder, insert a 25A fuse and connect to the positive side of the battery using 12 gauge wire. 9. Reconnect the battery cables. 2) WIRING THE FUEL PUMP WITH AN OIL PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCH AND RELAY: One method is to wire the pump to a switched 12-volt source (providing power only when the engine is running) located at the vehicle’s electric panel. To ensure this condition, the installation of a Holley 12-810 oil pressure safety switch is recommended for installation into the wiring circuit. This will ensure that the pump will not continue to operate after the engine is shut off and/or when the key is left in the “ON” position. If the pressure switch is to be used, follow the installation instructions as outlined below (refer to Figure 3). Use 12 gauge wire for power (BAT+) and ground wires. 1. Disconnect the cables from the battery. 2. Remove the original equipment oil pressure switch and retain. 3. Screw a 1/8” pipe nipple into the hole from which the original pressure switch was removed. Use any suitable thread sealant on all fittings, taking care to avoid any excess that might contaminate the engine. 4. Screw a 1/8” pipe tee onto the nipple and position it in a manner to facilitate the installation of the original oil pressure switch and the new oil pressure safety switch in the remaining two holes. 5. Screw in the two switches and reconnect the lead to the original equipment oil pressure switch. NOTE: The pump oil pressure switch will normally have three terminals marked: C (common), NC (normally closed), and NO (normally open). 6. Mount relay on firewall of engine compartment using a sheet metal screw. WARNING! Before punching or drilling a hole in the firewall, make sure you know what is on the other side to avoid puncturing equipment such as heater cores, air-conditioning system equipment, hoses, or wiring. 7. Plug the fuel pump relay harness into the relay, until it locks into place. 8. Connect the black wire of the relay harness to a good clean ground using 12 gauge wire. 9. Connect the Green/Black wire of the relay harness to the terminal marked “C” on the oil pressure safety switch. 10. Connect one of the red wires of the relay harness to the positive wire (red wire) of the fuel pump. 11. Connect the black wire of the fuel pump to a good clean chassis ground using a ring terminal 12. Attach the in-line fuse holder to the remaining red wire of the relay harness. After attaching the fuse holder, insert a 25A fuse and connect to the positive side of the battery using 12 gauge wire. 13. Connect the terminal marked “NO” of the safety switch to a switched 12V source.. 14. Connect the terminal marked “NC” of the safety switch to the starter terminal that’s hot (12V) during cranking only. 15. Reconnect the battery cables." = One source: JEGS Performance Products #555-15913 Electric Fuel Pump Street 95 GPH Gasoline Only Pre-set to approximately 6.5 psi Was: $79.99 "...Draws only 4 amps at full load. Ports are machined for 3/8" NPT fittings. We include a 555-15912 regulator with the 105 GPH pump. Includes mounting bracket and hardware. Not for use with fuel injection systems." #6 · Jul 25, 2021 I prefer the "push" of an electric pump, versus the "pull" of a engine block mounted mechanical pump. Not as good as an in-tank pump, but I've never had an electric pump die. Block off plate: Bought mine from summit. Summit Racing Part Number: TRD-2055 I mounted an electric pump where my factory fuel filter was located. Driver's side frame just forward of the rear axle.
I'm still playing with the wiring. Currently runs through a circuit breaker/relay fed from the "testing plug" in the engine bay. Gives me 12v when running. May change to a different source someday. But it works. Filter is where the mechanical pump was, just ahead of the carb. Insert Quotes Post Reply
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
posts 3.9M members 109K Since 2003 A forum community dedicated to all Ford Bronco owners and enthusiasts including the new 2021 Ford Bronco. Join the discussion about specs, photos, news, pricing, modifications, maintenance, and more! Show Less Full Forum Listing Explore Our Forums Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! 1980-'96 Bronco Tech General Discussion/ Bronco and Wheeling related. 1978-'79 Bronco Tech Introductions
Menu Log in Sign up 
Wolfbox Forum 
BigBlue 94 188 Replies 
ZHBronco 127 Replies 
jermil01 111 Replies 
Powerstroke Diesel Forum 328K members 
The Diesel Stop 231K members 
Can-Am electric vehicles 50 members