Removing Water Line To Refrigerator

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Go Back DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Plumbing, Piping, Water Heating, Wells, Air & Water Filtration and Conditioning > Plumbing and Piping Reload this Page > removing water line to refrigerator Login with Facebook Log in Username Remember Me? Password Register Forgot Password? New Posts Today's Posts FAQ Community
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removing water line to refrigerator

Reply Subscription Subscribe to this Thread Thread Tools Search this Thread #1 Old 07-05-02, 06:30 AM D dave houlihan Member Thread Starter Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: USA Posts: 121 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts removing water line to refrigerator In the house I just bought, the existing refrigerator has a small copper line feeding the ice maker. We want instead to use our own refrigerator that does not have an ice maker. We need to disconnect/remove the copper line. It is attached to a half inch or three quarter inch copper line by one of those self tapping devices. There is no shut off valve on the small line. The little self tapping valve leaks unless wide open. I would like to completely remove this line (about 5-6 feet, runs along floor behind stove and refrigerator; connects to source in accessable basement ceiling). So after I turn the water off and disconnect the line, what do I do with the self tapped hole? Is there a relatively simple solution? I've never worked with copper before. No interest cutting pipes, soldering, sweating, etc. if it can be avoided. Or a plumbers bill. (Apologies to plumbers, I just don't like bills!) Thanks! Upvote dave houlihan View Public Profile Find all posts by dave houlihan #2 Old 07-05-02, 06:58 AM Mike Swearingen's Avatar Mike Swearingen Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound Posts: 10,701 Upvotes: 0 Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts Cool That should be a half-inch cold water line. Turn off the water, cut out the tapped hole in the line with a hacksaw or tubing cutter, and install a half-inch brass compression fitting. No soldering. Easy. Good Luck! Mike Upvote Mike Swearingen View Public Profile Visit Mike Swearingen's homepage! Find all posts by Mike Swearingen #3 Old 07-05-02, 07:52 AM T trinitro Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,860 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts Or you could shut off the water, and replace the self tapping valve with a new one that doesn't leak. Just make sure you "tap" the same spot... Upvote trinitro View Public Profile Find all posts by trinitro #4 Old 07-05-02, 08:04 AM D dave houlihan Member Thread Starter Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: USA Posts: 121 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts Trinitro- Maybe this would work. I haven't installed a self tapping device before but I imagine what I am calling a valve is probably a screw driven driver that punches the tap into the existing line and is only then meant to be fully open and does not/is not intended to provide for shut-off. What do you think? (Or maybe a wad of gum and a roll of duct tape will work. Just kidding.) Upvote dave houlihan View Public Profile Find all posts by dave houlihan #5 Old 07-05-02, 08:37 AM T trinitro Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,860 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts That valve basically has a self taping screw. When you first install it it will punch a hole through the pipe, then you unscrew it to let the water flow. When you want to shut it off you screw it back it. It is supposed to fully shut off the water, but in many cases it will not after it's been on for a while. That's why I never use them, I always install a T and a separate regular valve. If your sink valve is really close to the "hole", then you can simply cut the pipe at the hole, and install a compression valve. Or you can do as OldGuy said, or what I said, or you could simply cut the pipe and solder a fitting. I'm not a big fan of compression stuff... there's nothing like a nice, strong solder joint. Upvote trinitro View Public Profile Find all posts by trinitro #6 Old 07-05-02, 08:50 AM D dave houlihan Member Thread Starter Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: USA Posts: 121 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts Trinitro, Thanks for clarifying. I wish you had done the original installation. Upvote dave houlihan View Public Profile Find all posts by dave houlihan #7 Old 04-10-12, 12:36 PM L lv4the1 Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 1 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts Thumbs up Thanks I am getting ready to do this same project! Thank you for the info and will let you know how it goes! Upvote lv4the1 View Public Profile Find all posts by lv4the1 #8 Old 04-10-12, 02:43 PM B beamhillrd Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: USA Posts: 86 Upvotes: 4 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts how odd I started this thread about ten years ago and jsut yesterday replaced the fridge in question. Unusual coincidence to see and new post to this thread. P.S. To solve the original problem I got a clamp and rubber gasket that surrounded the hole. No leak for ten years. Upvote beamhillrd View Public Profile Find all posts by beamhillrd #9 Old 04-10-12, 03:54 PM D dave houlihan Member Thread Starter Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: USA Posts: 121 Upvotes: 0 Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts P.P.S I must have started this thread under my old user name. I am also beamhillrd, above. Upvote dave houlihan View Public Profile Find all posts by dave houlihan Related Articles Troubleshooting a Refrigerator Water Line Troubleshooting a Refrigerator Water Line By Michelle Keefe How to Cap a Refrigerator Water Line How to Cap a Refrigerator Water Line By Heather Domabyl Removing Brake Lines Removing Brake Lines By Shermaine Williams Water supply lines against a white background. Installing Water Supply Lines By Alden Smith Thread Tools Show Printable Version Show Printable Version Search this Thread Advanced Search

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