Rifle Stock Stippling ... AKA: Dot Checkering ... - GTA Airgun Forum

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Offline Motorhead

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Rifle stock Stippling ... AKA: dot checkering question
« on: August 11, 2012, 06:39:43 PM » Not sure my terminology is correct ? .... Inquire is HOW DO THEY / YOU DO IT ?Talking about the Lumpy Bumpy texture in around the grip areas and fore ends of some European guns. Its is NOT checkering but somehow they have made the wood surface look like cottage cheese in texture.Here a photo of my Diana 75 that has it within grip and under fore end.I wish to learn how this is done so I can apply it to a RAW stock being built up.HELP !!! Logged
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Offline threex4

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Re: Rifle stock Stippling ... AKA: dot checkering question
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2012, 07:44:25 PM » Heres a link from the yellow that is a good write up on how to stipple a stock.http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1134761758/A+small+tutorial+for+those+interested....a+small+update+included Logged Buster \\\ X //// one step closer to the ultimate goal

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Re: Rifle stock Stippling ... AKA: dot checkering question
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2012, 07:50:33 PM » I have stipple a few Glocks and XD polymer handguns in my day. I use a pencil style soldering gun with and a quick and even touch to melt a texture into the grip and frame. It is quick clean and good looking with no mess. The key is to get in a rhythm and not to get too heavy handed. I found at first I used a very light touch and had to go back over the first few tries until I got the feel for how hard to press and then once I got it down I could rock right through a frame in a few minutes. It isn't as hard as it seems if you have steady hands and a little coordination. Logged

Offline Ddgrego

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Re: Rifle stock Stippling ... AKA: dot checkering question
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2012, 11:44:13 PM » Hi Motorhead.I have stippled many stocks and grips on pistols.I use either hand tools or a Dremel with the extension cable that makes it much easier.You can get tools to punch them in but i prefer a Diamond bit as these wont grab the wood and take off on you and maybe even mark the wood where you didn't want it to.The Dremel type tool i use turns at 200,000. to 350,000 rpms.It more like what a dentist use when when working on teeth.Very smooth though.Ive done wood plastic and metal.I would start with a piece of scrap wood to play with first.The harder the wood at least for me the easier it is to work with.Soft wood can get kind of stringy or leave hairs so to speak where the bit was used.Hard wood like Walnut works well and is easier to use.I get bits and tools from Brownells and Rocklers.Different size tips on bits make different hole sizes and the patters are just about endlees,When doing one just take you re time and go slow if needed.Some people go straight in and like myself i go in wood with the bit angled a bit.Anyway good luck and give it a try as it can be alot of fun! shoot me an e-mail and ill shoot ya some pics of some of my PB and airguns i have done.When you are finished i coat mine with checkering oil after completed to seal off the bare wood before i stain it if i do. TTYL. Logged
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Offline BALLISTIC1

Stippling Is Kind of Funny.....
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2012, 09:16:14 AM » Stippling is kind of an oxymoron.... A 'Random Pattern'.... I have done some stippling.. I think that I read in the Beeman's Catalog that some woodworkers tend to keep their stippling tools 'secret'... I have read of people brazing nails into a tube, I have seen the stippling tools offered by Brownell's... I made my own tool. It was fairly easy to make and is easy to use, variations of shape could make it easier to use in tight places... Once you have a little practice you can end up with repeatable results.. My stippling is kind of unique... I think it almost looks like some kind of vinyl.. Some have though it was an adhesive stick on texture... I have become very partial to it.... Laminates are a little more tricky than hardwoods.... This is the first actual stock that I did..... Greg « Last Edit: August 12, 2012, 10:29:20 AM by BALLISTIC1 » Logged
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Offline Motorhead

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Re: Rifle stock Stippling ... AKA: dot checkering question
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2012, 12:54:48 AM » Thanks guys !! ... So if a dremel tool or dentistry tool with diamond bit kind of thing ... CAN DO being I have both ;DYup. stock is a Laminate and HOPEFULLY to my benefit easier in doing being already sealed up with finish grade epoxy.Exterior hardness should be more uniform between the layers of wood over a raw laminate ? Stock WAS covered in Bed Liner, stripped it down to play with profile a tad more when thinking about the Stipple idea ???Here is the stock and going to do in around the grip and some forearm. Logged
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Offline Motorhead

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Got er Done ....
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2012, 02:47:34 PM » 3/32" diamond ball in the high speed dental hand piece and we have STIPPLING ;)Got up @ 6:30 before it got hot and went after it for 2 1/2 hours.At 3 hours we had another seal coat over the entire stock & stippled areas in particular.Feel of the stock is so much improved over bed liner :P .... will keep it as is !! « Last Edit: August 13, 2012, 02:51:11 PM by Motorhead » Logged
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Offline Slavia

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Re: Rifle stock Stippling ... AKA: dot checkering question
« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2012, 01:06:12 AM » That looks great! In my own experiments I found the Dremel to be too aggressive, so I do it by hand for more control. I use a punch held in a vise grip, bouncing it up and down like a human sewing machine. Heavy blows for deep/coarse stippling like the Mendoza RM577 stock), and lighter blows for a finer texture (like the 2240 grips). I slow down a little for the edges so I don't jump the border. I sit next to a table lamp and orient the piece so I can see the reflected shine, and when I can't see shiny spots I have complete coverage.The punch needs to hit the wood perpendicularly, or it will tear out wood fibers. A conical, round tip is better than a square or triangular point for the same reason.Stippling in this manner is just monotonous - it's the border that's tough. I use a pocket knife to scribe into a pencil line, and then widen/deepen the line with a tool cut from a hacksaw blade. « Last Edit: August 14, 2012, 01:09:29 AM by Slavia » Logged
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