2 Wire LS Alternator For Drag Car - Performance Forums

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• Dogsballs Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2010
  • Posts: 14234
  • Location: melbourne
  #1

  2 wire LS alternator for drag car

  05-08-13, 10:20 PM any wiring guru's have any idea what to do with the two, white (or possibly light grey) and brown, alternator wires for the Ls1 alternator (ignoring the main feed cable). its in my vk drag car with carb and dizzy and i don't care for an warning light on the dash either. after reading heaps on ls1tech i'm getting more and more confused. some say you have to run it to ignition and the other to a light on the dash. i suppose you call this the 'proper wiring' where the alternator won't overcharge and is also 'switched' on so to say. some say, just run without, as by default it will charge at 13.8 volts. thing is this is drag only and will run for short periods of time. Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end Tags: None
• Madhatr Half Shafted.
  • Join Date: May 2004
  • Posts: 11260
  • Location: QLD
  #2 06-08-13, 10:50 AM One is usually the exciter wire, without it hooked up, you won't get any alternator output. On older cars one wire gets 12v from the battery, the other goes to the charge light on the dash. The light illuminates if the voltage across the exciter circuit is different, lets you know something is wrong with the charging circuit. Thing is, the charge light formed part of the exciter circuit on a lot of cars, so without it, you aren't getting dick. In my manual it looks like it runs a wire to the ECU to control output based on load. Seeing as you aren't using an ECU, need to find out how the exciter circuit worked for your alternator. What model is it from? edit: forgot to mention, the exciter wire doesn't normally see a full 12v, varies a bit, sometimes 8v, but you'll probably need an inline resistor to drop the 12v battery voltage. This is what you would run from the ignition circuit so it's powered when the ignition is on. If it sees full voltage you may fry voltage regs. Originally posted by Buford T. Justice This happens every time one of these floozies starts poontangin' around with those show folk fags.

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• seedyrom Scaramouch
  • Join Date: Dec 2010
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  #3 06-08-13, 11:12 AM

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• Dogsballs Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2010
  • Posts: 14234
  • Location: melbourne
  #4 06-08-13, 12:24 PM ok, thats making sense. thanks. its from the earlier vt-vx ls1. Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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• Madhatr Half Shafted.
  • Join Date: May 2004
  • Posts: 11260
  • Location: QLD
  #5 06-08-13, 05:13 PM looks like it's probably brown then. You might need to find out what voltage it is supplied with for sure though, otherwise you will fry regulators if it's too high. Originally posted by Buford T. Justice This happens every time one of these floozies starts poontangin' around with those show folk fags.

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• Dogsballs Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2010
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  #6 06-08-13, 05:53 PM cool, i've seen people recommend "470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor inline" . any idea if that would be ok?? shouldn't the white be the 'excitor' and brown to the light? Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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• Dogsballs Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2010
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  #7 18-08-13, 09:17 PM ok this thing is not working and i'm stumped. wired the white with ignition feed (no resistor at moment as i was powering from the battery charger) and brown to light on dash. but i get no light on ignition. tried using white feed from alt terminal and still nothing. tried reversing and nothing. my wiring is fine and the bulb/light is fine. haven't got fuel lines yet so can't crank it over, although the starter does work. any suggestions? Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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• Dogsballs Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2010
  • Posts: 14234
  • Location: melbourne
  #8 18-08-13, 09:42 PM ahhh, i was running the other side of the light to earth. i think it needs power, doh!!! Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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• gtrboyy Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2005
  • Posts: 3367
  • Location: sydney
  #9 18-08-13, 10:03 PM Is it like the 5 litre commos with white load sense wire & brown is alt light? an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

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• Dogsballs Registered User
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  #10 18-08-13, 10:21 PM possibly. still can't get light to work in any config, but i can hear the alt turning on/off. if i power the white wire it will remain on, even if i remove power or earth it. if i power the brown wire it will go on, but i will turn of if i re-touch the power or earth it. Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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• gtrboyy Registered User
  • Join Date: Nov 2005
  • Posts: 3367
  • Location: sydney
  #11 18-08-13, 10:48 PM When I did torrie years ago battery was in boot so looped load sense wire to alternator post stud..bought one of those tubular fuseholder put suitable plugs to hook ends up...cbf'd doing it to starter stud or battery in boot as suggested & never had a problem. I checked it a few times with multimeter always charged. All I remember is acc on the alt light was on fire engine it turned off as it should.Can't remember if light went on or not if disconnected the brown wire though assume it would of. an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

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• Dogsballs Registered User
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  #12 18-08-13, 11:15 PM yeah, i think thats the way to go. white wire loops to alt terminal post, brown to light fed by ignition. however i think my alt isn't grounding with the aluminium brackets i have. edit. i sound like the biggest idiot, in the previous posts. Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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• gtrboyy Registered User
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  #13 19-08-13, 01:22 AM Lol! I used to get paranoid about voltage drop by putting extra earth straps 2 for block & 2 for battery in boot.Cast iron block/heads though. Ended up more concerned by stray current shit after ruining first alloy radiator lol. Does it make any difference for alloy blocks? an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

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• Jason Broadhurst Purist, whats that?
  • Join Date: Nov 2003
  • Posts: 13335
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  #14 19-08-13, 07:58 AM Don't short it to 12V. It requires a load/resistor/light between the alternator and the battery to limit current when it switches it to earth. Probe around with a test light. Jason Broadhurst Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

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• Dogsballs Registered User
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  #15 19-08-13, 08:23 AM yep, you're on the money, i had that idea on my run this morning. the light i have doesn't drop the voltage enough so i need a resistor. currently the voltage is the same so the light is off. the powered brown feed as mentioned earlier needs to less that the battery feed, so the alt will charge. now to try it. Originally posted by 50RTD Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby? Originally posted by Dogsballs;n7259704 Bit harder to Wank to without Wendy, but got there in the end

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