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Carbureted LSX Forum Carburetors | Carbed Intakes | Carb Tuning Tips for LSX Enthusiasts Community Links Social Groups Pictures & Albums Members Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Tag Search Advanced Search Find All Liked Posts Go to Page... Ls alternator wiring Reply Subscribe Thread Tools Search this Thread Oct 23, 2013 | 09:54 PM Share Share Options #1 dealrcn Thread Starter On The Tree Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 101 Likes: 0 From: Lake Jackson Ls alternator wiring Is the alternator from a 2004 LQ4 self exciting or which pin in the connection is the right one? Reply 0 0 dealrcn View Public Profile Find More Posts by dealrcn View iTrader Profile Oct 23, 2013 | 11:08 PM Share Share Options #2 383lt1impala TECH Fanatic iTrader: (33) Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,646 Likes: 2 From: SURCAL909 On the connector it should have 4 letters it's the P one that exites it. I have it connected to my switch on ignition. But with a small light in between. Works good 14.5 volts all day Reply 0 0 383lt1impala View Public Profile Find More Posts by 383lt1impala View iTrader Profile Oct 23, 2013 | 11:38 PM Share Share Options #3 The stunningman 9 Second Club iTrader: (47) Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 761 Likes: 1 Your supposed to run a resistor inline it needs 5 volts. Any more and it burns up the alternator. There are quite a few write-ups on it here. I just put a 1993-1994 4.3 S10 alternator on the truck bracket and forget about it. Reply 1 1 Dccorr6698 The stunningman View Public Profile Find More Posts by The stunningman View iTrader Profile Oct 24, 2013 | 09:12 PM Share Share Options #4 EastTn6.0 On The Tree Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 104 Likes: 0 ^^^^This is what I do. Works great. One switch wire and one wire to the battery Reply 0 0 EastTn6.0 View Public Profile Find More Posts by EastTn6.0 View iTrader Profile Oct 24, 2013 | 10:22 PM Share Share Options #5 snook TECH Apprentice iTrader: (1) Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 320 Likes: 1 Same here, I used a cs144 alt though, its a 140 amp. Comes on a 99 tahoe Reply 0 0 snook View Public Profile Find More Posts by snook View iTrader Profile Oct 26, 2013 | 03:22 PM Share Share Options #6 1981TA TECH Fanatic iTrader: (7) Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,369 Likes: 5 From: Saint John, IN Hope this helps. Reply 0 0 1981TA View Public Profile Visit 1981TA's homepage! Find More Posts by 1981TA View iTrader Profile Jul 4, 2015 | 10:09 AM Share Share Options #7 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA Bumping an old thread. So the brown wire "I" connects to the starter wire (purple for GM IIRC)? So the excitor wire only gets power when the car is cranking? Also the "S" can be added as the load for the alternator into any 12v service. Not directly to the battery + as that defeats the purpose. In my alt loom this is a light gray wire. Great alt reading: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...art2/#csseries Thanks! Last edited by APillow; Jul 4, 2015 at 10:10 AM. Reason: link Reply 0 0

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APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Jul 4, 2015 | 09:41 PM Share Share Options #8 bpatrol Teching In iTrader: (1) Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 24 Likes: 0 its not a starter wire its the ignition on switch. like when you turn the key to the running position and all your stuff is on. hope this helps Reply 0 0 bpatrol View Public Profile Find More Posts by bpatrol View iTrader Profile Jul 8, 2015 | 09:08 AM Share Share Options #9 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA Excellent, thanks for the clarification! I have read it so many different ways on that wire. So to be clear the brown wire receive constant 12v switched ignition power. Switched constant being the key here. TY!!! Reply 0 0 APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Jul 10, 2015 | 06:19 PM Share Share Options #10 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA Works!!! Voltage will fluctuate a little bit so I am hoping the system voltage is being read from the Gray wire and adjusting as needed. It is tough to see but there is a 47 Ohm (50 on paper) resistor underneath the heat shrink on the Brown wire. PM me if you need the resistors, I have 49 left over! Because Amazon. Before the Alternator did not charge at all, the truck ran on only battery power with the "one wire" +pole setup. The battery was slowly draining out as the truck ran. Right now I have the trickle charger on the battery so that we are full up + when needed to crank. Also note that the MSD is VERY sensitive to power fluctuations! Needs good ground and a solid 12v to run right, even if the starter turns don't assume it is enough for the the MSD. Put power to the MSD on a relay if you can. Thank You!!! Last edited by APillow; Jul 10, 2015 at 06:25 PM. Reply 0 0 APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Jul 16, 2015 | 12:29 AM Share Share Options #11 Project GatTagO TECH Senior Member iTrader: (7) Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 10,586 Likes: 1,852 From: Little Austin Quote: Originally Posted by APillow Works!!! Voltage will fluctuate a little bit so I am hoping the system voltage is being read from the Gray wire and adjusting as needed. It is tough to see but there is a 47 Ohm (50 on paper) resistor underneath the heat shrink on the Brown wire. PM me if you need the resistors, I have 49 left over! Because Amazon. Before the Alternator did not charge at all, the truck ran on only battery power with the "one wire" +pole setup. The battery was slowly draining out as the truck ran. Right now I have the trickle charger on the battery so that we are full up + when needed to crank. Also note that the MSD is VERY sensitive to power fluctuations! Needs good ground and a solid 12v to run right, even if the starter turns don't assume it is enough for the the MSD. Put power to the MSD on a relay if you can. Thank You!!! Putting the L and S terminals together like you have is worthless. The idea behind the S terminal is that you wire it to a place where all of the accessories draw their power from. This way the alternator can sense the load and adjust output accordingly. Andrew Reply 0 0 Project GatTagO View Public Profile Find More Posts by Project GatTagO View iTrader Profile Jul 16, 2015 | 09:22 AM Share Share Options #12 Pop N Wood TECH Junkie iTrader: (1) Joined: May 2006 Posts: 3,402 Likes: 8 Quote: Originally Posted by Project GatTagO Putting the L and S terminals together like you have is worthless. The idea behind the S terminal is that you wire it to a place where all of the accessories draw their power from. This way the alternator can sense the load and adjust output accordingly. Andrew I agree with you 100% the S wire should go to the point where most of the accessories draw their power, like the fuse box. The voltage regulator inside the alternator will adjust the output to keep the voltage there constant. Like someone else said do not connect the voltage sense wire (S) to the battery. I struggled a bit on where to tap the L wire. It needs to be switched with the key, but no reason they both can't be connected to switched wire in the fuse box. Reply 0 0 Pop N Wood View Public Profile Find More Posts by Pop N Wood View iTrader Profile Jul 19, 2015 | 07:42 AM Share Share Options #13 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA Agreed! And it is is. The picture just makes it hard to show. The yellow wire is from the switched ignition off the factory fuse box. Not bad for original 1971 coloring! Reused the +12v from the old electric choke. Reply 0 0 APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Aug 4, 2015 | 07:40 AM Share Share Options #14 VLS1 TECH Regular Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 410 Likes: 0 Quote: Originally Posted by Project GatTagO Putting the L and S terminals together like you have is worthless. The idea behind the S terminal is that you wire it to a place where all of the accessories draw their power from. This way the alternator can sense the load and adjust output accordingly. Andrew So if main ignition/accessory power feed is pulled from the battery? How does the alternator behave without the S terminal connected, while running 5 volts to the L terminal only?? Reply 0 0 VLS1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by VLS1 View iTrader Profile Aug 5, 2015 | 04:11 PM Share Share Options #15 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA If S is disconnected the Alt will go into a steady state "load"/duty cycle that is not dependent on fuse box feedback voltage. You can run the Alt w/o the S wire connected just fine. But I cannot remember the fixed output voltage that you will get. It is better to run the S wire if you are able. Shoot mine worked out fine using the same input wire off the fuse box. Reply 0 0 APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Aug 6, 2015 | 07:41 PM Share Share Options #16 Project GatTagO TECH Senior Member iTrader: (7) Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 10,586 Likes: 1,852 From: Little Austin Quote: Originally Posted by VLS1 So if main ignition/accessory power feed is pulled from the battery? How does the alternator behave without the S terminal connected, while running 5 volts to the L terminal only?? I have my S terminal wired essentially to the battery, because that is where most everything gets its power. Other people have a main power distribution bar and they wire the S terminal there. As I recall, without the S terminal wired, the alternator will putt out a steady 13.7 volts. However, once more load is added, the output will drop. This is exactly what happens in my GTO swap, as it does not have the S terminal wired. When the coolant fans kick on, there is about a .5v drop. When the turn signals are on, you can see the needle on the volt meter bouncing to the rhythm of the blinkers. On my Cougar swap, I have the S terminal wired to the battery (essentially) and it does not behave the same way. Voltage is steady when the fan kicks on, but then again my fan is PWM controlled so I do not have a large amp spike. Wiring the S terminal is easy and there is no reason not to do it. No downside. Andrew Reply 0 0 Project GatTagO View Public Profile Find More Posts by Project GatTagO View iTrader Profile Aug 7, 2015 | 07:06 AM Share Share Options #17 VLS1 TECH Regular Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 410 Likes: 0 Quote: Originally Posted by Project GatTagO I have my S terminal wired essentially to the battery, because that is where most everything gets its power. Other people have a main power distribution bar and they wire the S terminal there. As I recall, without the S terminal wired, the alternator will putt out a steady 13.7 volts. However, once more load is added, the output will drop. This is exactly what happens in my GTO swap, as it does not have the S terminal wired. When the coolant fans kick on, there is about a .5v drop. When the turn signals are on, you can see the needle on the volt meter bouncing to the rhythm of the blinkers. On my Cougar swap, I have the S terminal wired to the battery (essentially) and it does not behave the same way. Voltage is steady when the fan kicks on, but then again my fan is PWM controlled so I do not have a large amp spike. Wiring the S terminal is easy and there is no reason not to do it. No downside. Andrew So with the way I have wired my car I should be able to run a wire from the S terminal onto the alternator main output/battery terminal (which runs parallel with the battery lead to the battery) to achieve the same thing? Reply 0 0 VLS1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by VLS1 View iTrader Profile Aug 7, 2015 | 09:34 AM Share Share Options #18 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA Quote: the S wire should go to the point where most of the accessories draw their power, like the fuse box. The voltage regulator inside the alternator will adjust the output to keep the voltage there constant. Like someone else said do not connect the voltage sense wire (S) to the battery. this. Reply 0 0 APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Aug 7, 2015 | 07:57 PM Share Share Options #19 VLS1 TECH Regular Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 410 Likes: 0 On a car where the fuel pump and cooling fans are the main electrical loads in the wiring, can't see it mattering a great deal. Reply 0 0 VLS1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by VLS1 View iTrader Profile Aug 10, 2015 | 09:06 AM Share Share Options #20 APillow On The Tree iTrader: (3) Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 195 Likes: 2 From: Warrenton, VA Quote: Originally Posted by VLS1 On a car where the fuel pump and cooling fans are the main electrical loads in the wiring, can't see it mattering a great deal. Well if it is a track car then it wont really matter. For a streeter, I would wire it properly. Radio, headlights, and such do take a draw. Reply 0 0 APillow View Public Profile Find More Posts by APillow View iTrader Profile Thread Tools Show Printable Version Search this Thread Advanced Search Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Advanced Search Reply Closed Thread Share

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