Áo Dài - Wikipedia

Traditional Vietnamese clothing This article contains chữ Nôm text. Without proper rendering support, you may see question marks, boxes, or other symbols instead of chữ Nôm.

Áo dài (English: /ˈaʊˈzaɪ/; Vietnamese: [ʔaːw˧˦zaːj˨˩] (North), [ʔaːw˦˥jaːj˨˩] (South))[1][2] is a modernized Vietnamese national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear for both men and women. Áo translates as shirt[3] and dài means "long".[4] The term can also be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as nhật bình.

There are inconsistencies in usage of the term áo dài. The currently most common usage is for a Francized design by Nguyễn Cát Tường (whose shop was named "Le Mur"), which is expressly a women's close-fitting design[5] whose shirt is two pieces of cloth sewn together and fastened with buttons. A more specific term for this design would be "áo dài Le Mur".[6][7] Other writers, especially those who claim its "traditionality", use áo dài as a general category of garments for both men and women, and include older designs such as áo ngũ thân (five-piece shirt), áo tứ thân (four-piece shirt), áo tấc (loose shirt), áo đối khâm (parallel-flap robe), áo viên lĩnh (round-collar robe), áo giao lĩnh (cross-collar robe), áo trực lĩnh (straight-collar robe).[8]

History

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The predecessor of the áo dài was derived by the Nguyễn lords in Phú Xuân during 18th century.[9] This outfit was derived from the áo ngũ thân, a five-piece shirt commonly worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The áo dài was later made to be form-fitting which was influenced by the French, Nguyễn Cát Tường and other Hanoi artists redesigned the áo dài as a modern shirt in the 1920s and 1930s.[10] The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women.[10] The áo dài for women was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an áo gấm (brocade long shirt), a version of the áo dài made of very thick fabric and with sewed symbols.

• Two women wear áo ngũ thân, the predecessor of the áo dài initially worn in the 18th century.
• Vietnamese official (right) in áo ngũ thân with Khăn vấn while his wife worn áo Nhật Bình.
• Vietnamese Nguyễn dynasty's eunuchs in áo ngũ thân.

The áo dài has traditionally been marketed with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants being popular in Vietnam and with overseas Vietnamese.[11] However, the men version of áo dài or modified áo dài are also worn during weddings or formal occasions. The áo dài is one of the few Vietnamese words that appear in English-language dictionaries.[a] The áo dài can be paired with the nón lá or the khăn vấn.

Parts of shirt

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• Tà sau: back flap
• Nút bấm thân áo: hooks used as fasteners and holes
• Ống tay: sleeve
• Đường bên: inside seam
• Nút móc kết thúc: main hook and hole
• Tà trước: front flap
• Khuy cổ: collar button
• Cổ áo: collar
• Đường may: seam
• Kích (eo): waist

Origin

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• Vietnamese garments throughout the centuries
• Trần dynasty robes as depicted in a section of a 14th-century scroll.
• Trần Anh Tông wearing a "áo viên lĩnh" and outside a "áo giao lĩnh" in the calligraphy painting Trúc Lâm đại sĩ xuất sơn đồ (The painting of Trúc Lâm the Great Master), 14th century.
• A Vietnamese man on the left is wearing áo viên lĩnh (the predecessor of áo dài) in Sancai Tuhui, early 17th century during the Lê dynasty.
• "Giảng học đồ" (Teaching), 18th century, Hanoi museum of National History. Scholars and students wear áo giao lĩnh (cross-collar robe) - unlike the buttoned áo dài.
• A woman wearing a nón lá with áo dài, as worn in the 20th and 21st centuries.

18th century (Lê dynasty)

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For centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top (yếm) underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt (váy).[12] Aristocrats, on the other hand, favored a cross-collar robe called áo giao lĩnh.[13][14][15] The following Lê dynasty also criticized women for violating Neo-Confucian dress norms, but only enforced the dress code haphazardly, so skirts and halter tops remained the norm. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Vietnam was divided into northern and southern realms, with the Nguyễn lords ruling the south.[16] To distinguish the southern people from the northerners, in 1744, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát of Huế decreed that both men and women at his court wear trousers and a gown with buttons down the front.[10][b] The members of the southern court were thus distinguished from the courtiers of the Trịnh Lords in Hanoi, who wore áo giao lĩnh with long skirts.[14]

According to Lê Quý Đôn's record in the book "Phủ Biên Tạp Lục" (recording most of the important information about the economy and society of Đàng Trong for nearly 200 years), the áo dài (or rather, the forerunner of the áo dài) created by Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát based on Chinese Ming Dynasty costumes, by how to learn the method of making costumes in the book "Sāncái Túhuì" as the standard.[17]

19th century

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The áo ngũ thân (five-piece shirt) had two flaps sewn together in the back, two flaps sewn together in the front, and a "baby flap" hidden underneath the main front flap. The gown appeared to have two-flaps with slits on both sides, features preserved in the later áo dài. Compared to a modern áo dài, the front and back flaps were much broader and the fit looser and much shorter. It had a high collar and was buttoned in the same fashion as a modern áo dài. Women could wear the shirt with the top few buttons undone, revealing a glimpse of their yếm underneath.

20th century

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Modernization of style

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Huế's Đồng Khánh Girls' High School, which opened in 1917, was widely praised for the áo dài uniform worn by its students.[18] The first modernized áo dài appeared at a Paris fashion show in 1921. In 1930, Hanoi artist Cát Tường, also known as Le Mur, designed a shirt inspired by the áo ngũ thân and by Paris fashions. It reached to the floor and fit the curves of the body by using darts and a nipped-in waist.[19] When fabric became inexpensive, the rationale for multiple layers and thick flaps disappeared. Modern textile manufacture allows for wider panels, eliminating the need to sew narrow panels together. The áo dài Le Mur, or "trendy" ao dai, created a sensation when model Nguyễn Thị Hậu wore it for a feature published by the newspaper Today in January 1935.[20] The style was promoted by the artists of Tự Lực văn đoàn ("Self-Reliant Literary Group") as a national costume for the modern era. The painter Lê Phô introduced several popular styles of ao dai beginning in 1934. Such Westernized garments temporarily disappeared during World War II (1939–45).

In the 1950s, Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) designers tightened the fit of the áo dài to create the version commonly seen today.[10] Trần Kim of Thiết Lập Tailors and Dũng of Dũng Tailors created a shirt with raglan sleeves and a diagonal seam that runs from the collar to the underarm.[10] Madame Nhu, first lady of South Vietnam, popularized a boat neck version beginning in 1958. The áo dài was most popular from 1960 to 1975.[21] A brightly colored áo dài hippy was introduced in 1968. The áo dài mini, a version designed for practical use and convenience, had slits that extended above the waist and panels that reached only to the knee.[19]

Under communism

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The áo dài has always been more common in the South than in the North. The communists, who gained power in the North in 1954 and in the South in 1975, had conflicted feelings about the áo dài. They praised it as a national costume and one was worn to the Paris Peace Conference (1969–73) by Viet Cong negotiator Nguyễn Thị Bình.[22] Yet Westernized versions of the shirt and those associated with "decadent" Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) of the 1960s and early 1970s were condemned.[23] Economic crisis, famine, and war with Cambodia combined to make the 1980s a fashion low point.[24] The áo dài was rarely worn except at weddings and other formal occasions, with the older, looser-fitting style preferred.[23] Overseas Vietnamese, meanwhile, kept tradition alive with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants (Hoa Hậu Áo Dài), the most notable one held annually in Long Beach, California.[10]

The áo dài experienced a revival beginning in late 1980s, when state enterprise and schools began adopting the áo dài as a uniform again.[10] In 1989, 16,000 Vietnamese attended a Miss Ao Dai Beauty Contest held in Ho Chi Minh City.[25] When the Miss International Pageant in Tokyo gave its "Best National Costume" award to an áo dài-clad Trương Quỳnh Mai in 1995, Thời Trang Trẻ (New Fashion Magazine) claimed that Vietnam's "national soul" was "once again honored".[26] An "áo dài craze" followed that lasted for several years and led to wider use of the áo dài as a school uniform.[27]

Present day

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No longer deemed politically controversial, áo dài fashion design is supported by the Vietnamese government.[24] It is often called áo dài Việt Nam to link it to patriotic feelings. Designer Le Si Hoang is a celebrity in Vietnam and his shop in Ho Chi Minh City is the place to visit for those who admire the áo dài.[24] In Hanoi, tourists get fitted with áo dài on Luong Van Can Street.[28] The elegant city of Huế in the central region is known for its áo dài and nón lá (lit. 'leaf hat').

The áo dài is now a standard for weddings, for celebrating Tết and for other formal occasions. It is the required uniform for female teachers (mostly from high school to below) and female students in common high schools in the South; there is no requirement for color or pattern for teachers while students use plain white or with some small patterns like flowers for use as school uniforms. Companies often require their female staff to wear uniforms that include the áo dài, so flight attendants, receptionists, bank female staff, restaurant staff, and hotel workers in Vietnam may be seen wearing it.

The most popular style of áo dài fits tightly around the wearer's upper shirt, emphasizing her bust and curves. Although the shirt covers the entire body, it is thought to be provocative, especially when made of thin fabric. "The áo dài covers everything, but hides nothing", according to one saying.[22] The shirt must be individually fitted and usually requires several weeks for a tailor to complete. Áo dài costs about $200 in the United States and about $40 in Vietnam.[29]

"Symbolically, the áo dài invokes nostalgia and timelessness associated with a gendered image of the homeland for which many Vietnamese people throughout the diaspora yearn," wrote Nhi T. Lieu, an assistant professor at the University of Texas at Austin.[11] The difficulties of working while wearing áo dài link the garment to frailty and innocence, she wrote.[11] Vietnamese writers who favor the use of the áo dài as a school uniform cite the inconvenience of wearing it as an advantage, a way of teaching students feminine behavior such as modesty, caution, and a refined manner.[27]

The áo dài is featured in an array of Asian-themed or related movies. In Good Morning, Vietnam (1987), Robin Williams's character is wowed by áo dài-clad women when he first arrives in Ho Chi Minh City. The 1992 films Indochine and The Lover inspired several international fashion houses to design áo dài collections,[30] including Prada's SS08 collection and a Giorgio Armani collection. In the Vietnamese film The White Silk Dress (2007), an áo dài is the sole legacy that the mother of a poverty-stricken family has to pass on to her daughters.[31] The Hanoi City Complex, a 65-story building now under construction, will have an áo dài-inspired design.[32] Vietnamese designers created áo dài for the contestants in the Miss Universe beauty contest, which was held July 2008 in Nha Trang, Vietnam.[33] The most prominent annual Ao Dai Festival outside of Vietnam is held each year in San Jose, California, a city that is home to a large Vietnamese American community. This event features an international array of designer áo dài under the direction of festival founder, Jenny Do.

In recent years, a shorter, more modern version of the áo dài, known as the áo dài cách tân, is often worn by the younger generation. This modern áo dài has a shorter front and back flap, hitting just below the knees.

Criticism

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Áo dài is the traditional attire of Vietnam, considered a symbol of the graceful and elegant beauty of Vietnamese women.[34] However, besides the praises, áo dài it is met with criticism from some.[35][36] One of the most common criticisms of áo dài is excessive modernisation.[37][38] In recent years, the modernised type has become very popular, with a variety of styles, materials, and colors. However, some people believe that excessive modernisation has eroded the "traditional beauty" of áo dài.[39][40] They believe that áo dài should keep its traditional style, material, and color, in order to enhance the gentle and elegant beauty of Vietnamese women.[41][42] Another criticism of áo dài is the wearing of áo dài in a way that is seen as offensive.[43][44][45] In recent years, there have been many cases of celebrities being criticized for wearing "offensive" áo dài.[46][47][48] They were accused of using áo dài to show off their bodies, causing offense to the viewer.[49][50] In addition, áo dài is also criticized as being incompatible with modern life.[51][52] Áo dài is a traditional costume designed to be worn on formal occasions and festivals. However, in modern life, many people believe that áo dài is not suitable for everyday activities, such as going to school, going to work, going out, etc.[53][54]

Similar garments

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The áo dài is also similar in appearance to the cheongsam, both consisting of a long robe with side splits on both sides of the robe, with one of the main differences typically being the height of the side split.[13]

Áo dài is similar in appearance to the shalwar kameez and kurta of as India and Pakistan as they are both forms of clothing consisting of a long split tunic worn over trousers. The main difference is that the áo dài usually has a row of buttons that cross from the neck down to the hips while the rest of the garments have a row of buttons in the front.[55]

Gallery

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• Five Hanoi sisters wearing Áo dài, 1950s
• Saigon old man wearing traditional Áo dài and Khăn vấn, Tết 1963
• A female student wearing Áo dài
• Two woman wearing pink Áo dài
• The female students wearing purple Áo dài
• A woman wearing cyan Áo dài
• A woman wearing violet Áo dài and Nón lá
• A young girl wearing white Áo dài and holding Nón lá
• A woman wearing red Áo dài
• Two women wearing blue Áo dài
• A girl wearing white Áo dài
• A woman wearing yellow Áo dài

See also

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• Áo giao lĩnh
• Ruqun
• Cheongsam
• Kurti top
• Shalwar kameez
• Vietnamese clothing

Notes

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1. ^ "Ao dai" appears in the Oxford English Dictionary, the American Heritage Dictionary (2004), and the Random House Unabridged Dictionary (2006). Other Vietnamese words that appear include "Tet", "Vietminh", "Vietcong", and "pho" (rice noodles).[1]
2. ^ A court historian described the costume in Huế as follows: "Outside court, men and women wear gowns with straight collars and short sleeves. The sleeves are large or small depending on the wearer. There are seams on both sides running down from the sleeve, so the gown is not open anywhere. Men may wear a round collar and a short sleeve for more convenience." ("Thường phục thì đàn ông, đàn bà dùng áo cổ đứng ngắn tay, cửa ống tay rộng hoặc hẹp tùy tiện. Áo thì hai bên nách trở xuống phải khâu kín liền, không được xẻ mở. Duy đàn ông không muốn mặc áo cổ tròn ống tay hẹp cho tiện khi làm việc thì được phép…") (from Đại Nam Thực Lục [Records of Đại Nam])

References

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1. ^ "ao dai". Dictionary.com. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
2. ^ "AO DAI definition in American English | Collins English Dictionary". www.collinsdictionary.com. February 13, 2020. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
3. ^ "Definition of ao dai in English". September 16, 2013. Archived from the original on September 16, 2013. Retrieved February 12, 2023.Áo is derived from a Middle Chinese word (襖) meaning "padded coat". "襖". Han Dian. Retrieved May 20, 2023.
4. ^ Phan Van Giuong, Tuttle Compact Vietnamese Dictionary: Vietnamese–English English–Vietnamese (2008), p. 76. "dài adj. long, lengthy."
5. ^ Trần Hậu Yên Thế (December 26, 2023). "Họa sĩ Cát Tường và trang phục áo dài Lemur" [Artist Cát Tường and the Lemur áo dài outfit.]. Tạp chí Người Hà Nội Online.
6. ^ "Câu chuyện kỳ thú về mối lương duyên của họa sĩ Cát Tường - người sáng tạo ra áo dài Việt Nam hôm nay" [The fascinating story of the destined connection of artist Cát Tường – the creator of today's Vietnamese áo dài.]. Chúng ta. July 20, 2021.
7. ^ "Chuyện về danh họa Nguyễn Cát Tường, người thiết kế nên chiếc áo dài đầu tiên của Việt Nam" [The story of renowned painter Nguyễn Cát Tường, who designed Vietnam's first áo dài.]. Sàigòneer. February 9, 2022.
8. ^ "Sự khác biệt về cách may giữa Áo Cổ Đứng Xưa và Áo Dài Tân Thời" [The difference in tailoring between the traditional standing-collar áo and the modern áo dài.]. June 23, 2016.
9. ^ "Things to Know about Ao Dai: The Vietnam Traditional Costume". www.asiakingtravel.com. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
10. ^ a b c d e f g Ellis, Claire (1996). "Ao Dai: The National Costume". Things Asian. Archived from the original on July 5, 2008. Retrieved August 2, 2008.
11. ^ a b c Lieu (2000), p. 127–151.
12. ^ Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003), p. 89.
13. ^ a b "Vietnam Traditional Clothes: Ao Dai". www.vietnamonline.com. Retrieved June 30, 2021.
14. ^ a b Vu, Thuy (2014). "Đi tìm ngàn năm áo mũ" [Searching for a thousand years of attire and headwear.]. Tuoi Tre. Archived from the original on June 17, 2015. Retrieved June 16, 2015.
15. ^ T.Van (2013). "Ancient costumes of Vietnamese people". Vietnamnet. Archived from the original on June 17, 2015. Retrieved June 16, 2015.
16. ^ Leshkowich, Ann Marie (2005). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. p. 61.
17. ^ "Trang phục (thường phục) ở Đàng Trong thời Võ Vương Nguyễn Phúc Khoát – những nét đặc trưng" [Everyday attire in Đàng Trong during the reign of Võ Vương Nguyễn Phúc Khoát – distinctive features.]. Bình Nguyên - Võ Vinh Quang (in Vietnamese). October 8, 2020. Retrieved February 12, 2023.
18. ^ Kauffner, Peter (September–October 2010). "Áo dài" (PDF). Asia Insights Destination Asia. Archived from the original (PDF) on May 22, 2013. Retrieved February 12, 2023 – via Visions of Indochina.com.
19. ^ a b Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003), p. 91.
20. ^ "Fashion". www.ninhthuanpt.com.vn. Archived from the original on June 23, 2008. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
21. ^ "Ao Dai Enjoys A Renaissance Among Women : In Vietnam, A Return to Femininity (Published 1997)". September 17, 1997. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
22. ^ a b "Vietnamese AoDai". Overlandclub. Archived from the original on March 19, 2008. Retrieved July 2, 2008.
23. ^ a b Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003), p. 92.
24. ^ a b c Valverde, Caroline Kieu (2006). "The History and Revival of the Vietnamese Ao Dai". NHA magazine. Archived from the original on July 4, 2008. Retrieved August 2, 2008.
25. ^ Vu, Lan (2002). "Ao Dai Viet Nam". Viettouch. Retrieved July 3, 2008.
26. ^ Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003), p. 79.
27. ^ a b Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003), p. 97.
28. ^ "Traditional ao dai grace foreign bodies". VNS. December 20, 2004. Archived from the original on December 24, 2004. Retrieved August 24, 2016.
29. ^ "NHA Magazine: Feature: Ao Dai". www.nhamagazine.com. Archived from the original on April 8, 2008. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
30. ^ "Ao Dai - Vietnamese Plus Size Fashion Statement". articles.getacoder.com. Archived from the original on February 16, 2009. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
31. ^ "Vietnam send Ao Lua Ha Dong to Pusan Film Festival". VietNamNet Bridge. 2006. Retrieved July 13, 2008.
32. ^ Tuấn Cường. ""Nóc nhà" Hà Nội sẽ cao 65 tầng" [The "rooftop" of Hanoi will be 65 stories high.]. Tuoi Tre (in Vietnamese). Archived from the original on March 28, 2007. Retrieved April 26, 2009.
33. ^ "Miss Universe contestants try on ao dai". Vietnam.net Bridge. 2008. Archived from the original on July 1, 2008. Retrieved August 2, 2008.
34. ^ Hùng, Việt (2010). Áo dài Việt Nam: truyền thống, đời thường, cách điệu (in Vietnamese). Mỹ Thụât.
35. ^ "Áo dài, đừng để cách tân trở thành "thảm họa"" [Áo dài, don't let modernization become a "disaster"]. BÁO SÀI GÒN GIẢI PHÓNG (in Vietnamese). October 18, 2016. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
36. ^ "Áo dài cách tân: Sáng tạo nhưng phải có chừng mực" [Modernized Áo dài: Creative but must be done with moderation]. nbtv.vn (in Vietnamese). Retrieved January 15, 2024.
37. ^ "Những mẫu áo dài cách tân quá đà của sao Việt khiến dư luận giận dữ" [Overly modernized Áo dài designs by Vietnamese celebrities have angered the public]. laodong.vn (in Vietnamese). August 13, 2014. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
38. ^ "'Cách tân kiểu gì cũng được nhưng khi đó đừng gọi là áo dài'". TUOI TRE ONLINE (in Vietnamese). April 23, 2023. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
39. ^ "Giữ gìn nét đẹp truyền thống của áo dài" [Preserving the traditional beauty of the Áo dài]. Báo Nhân Dân điện tử (in Vietnamese). February 11, 2017. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
40. ^ "Áo dài cách tân - hòa mình với cuộc sống hiện đại". Báo Pháp luật Việt Nam điện tử (in Vietnamese). March 7, 2021. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
41. ^ "Tôn vinh vẻ đẹp của áo dài Việt Nam tại Hà Nam". Báo Hà Nam điện tử. October 24, 2023. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
42. ^ "Zach Bryan Store". zachbryanllc.com. February 13, 2021. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
43. ^ "Hoa hậu Thái Lan mặc áo dài lộ nội y ren phản cảm". thanhnien.vn (in Vietnamese). Retrieved January 15, 2024.
44. ^ "Áo dài xuyên thấu: Cách tân, hợp thời, hay phản cảm?" [Sheer Áo dài: Modernized, fashionable, or offensive?]. congly.vn (in Vietnamese). March 24, 2023. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
45. ^ "Diễn áo dài, áo yếm phản cảm: Đề xuất phạt 85 triệu đồng". TUOI TRE ONLINE (in Vietnamese). June 8, 2023. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
46. ^ Trang, Thùy (August 23, 2022). "Siêu mẫu Hà Anh lại bị chỉ trích sau sự cố mặc áo dài phản cảm". Báo Người Lao Động Online (in Vietnamese). Retrieved October 14, 2025.
47. ^ Phong, Báo điện tử Tiền (March 25, 2023). "Kendrick Lamar Merch". Retrieved October 14, 2025.
48. ^ T.Trang (August 22, 2022). "Hà Anh mặc áo dài phản cảm, BTC Hoa hậu bị phạt 70 triệu đồng". Báo Người Lao Động Online (in Vietnamese). Retrieved October 14, 2025.
49. ^ "Áo dài vốn đã quyến rũ, đừng cố cách điệu để khoe thân" [The Áo dài is already alluring, don't try to style it to show off your body]. afamily.vn (in Vietnamese). March 15, 2016. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
50. ^ "Angela Phương Trinh và loạt sao từng bị chỉ trích dùng áo yếm khoe thân" [Angela Phương Trinh and a series of celebrities who were criticized for using yếm (bodice) to show off their bodies]. laodong.vn (in Vietnamese). June 4, 2023. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
51. ^ "Truyền thống bền vững nhưng không biết cách bảo tồn nó sẽ rơi về phía mong manh". TUOI TRE ONLINE (in Vietnamese). September 13, 2020. Retrieved January 15, 2024.
52. ^ Trí, Dân (November 14, 2013). "Áo dài- từ "biểu tượng văn hóa" đến… "thảm họa văn hóa" (II)". Báo điện tử Dân Trí (in Vietnamese). Retrieved January 15, 2024.
53. ^ "Mặc áo dài hàng ngày: Nên hay không?". danviet.vn. February 25, 2016. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
54. ^ "Áo dài Việt trong đời sống hàng ngày". Báo Pháp Luật Việt Nam (in Vietnamese). March 4, 2023. Retrieved October 14, 2025.
55. ^ "Quan điểm của Nguồn gốc áo dài Việt Nam". vjol.info.vn (in Vietnamese). Archived from the original on September 15, 2025. Retrieved October 14, 2025.

Bibliography

[edit]

• Leshkowich, Ann Marie (2005). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion.
• Li, Tana (1998). Nguyễn Cochichina: Southern Vietnam in the Seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Southeast Asia Program Publications. ISBN 9780877277224.
• Lieu, Nhi T. (2000). "Remembering 'the Nation' through pageantry: femininity and the politics of Vietnamese womanhood in the 'Hoa Hau Ao Dai' contest". Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies. 21 (1–2). University of Nebraska Press: 127–151. doi:10.2307/3347038. JSTOR 3347038.
• Niessen, S. A.; Leshkowich, Ann Marie; Jones, Carla, eds. (2003). Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress. Berg. p. 89. ISBN 978-1-85973-539-8.

Further reading

[edit]

• Trần Quang Đức (2013). Ngàn Năm Áo Mũ. Lịch sử trang phục Việt Nam 1009–1945 [A Thousand Years of Caps and Robes. A history of Vietnamese costumes 1009–1945]. Nhã Nam. OCLC 862888254.

External links

[edit] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Áo dài.

• History of the Vietnamese Long Dress
• The Evolution of the Ao Dai Through Many Eras, Gia Long Alumni Association of Seattle, 2000
• Vietnam: Mini-Skirts & Ao-Dais. A video that shows what the women of Saigon wore in 1968

v t e Folk costumes
Africa	Balgha Boubou Dashiki Djellaba Head tie Jellabiya Kanzu Kente cloth Kufi Litham Pareo Senegalese kaftan Tagelmust Wrapper
Asia	Central Afghanistan Pakol Chapan Deel Malahai Paranja East China Cheongsam Hanfu Mao suit Tangzhuang Japan Hachimaki Kimono Obi Korea Cheopji Daenggi Gache Hanbok Hwagwan Jokduri Manggeon South Bhutan Gho Kira Dhoti Dupatta India Mizoram Nehru (Style) Punjab Tripura Lungi Nepal Pakistan Pathin Perak Peshawari pagri Sari Shalwar kameez Sherwani Southeast Burma Longyi Gaung baung Cambodia Chong Kben Krama Sompot Sbai Indonesia Baju bodo Batik Blangkon Ikat Kebaya Kemben Kupiah Songket Songkok Tanjak Ulos Laos Xout lao Suea pat Sinh Malaysia Baju Kurung Baju Melayu Songket Songkok Tengkolok Philippines Barong tagalog Baro't saya Buntal hat Malong Maria Clara gown Patadyong Salakot Thailand Banong Chong kraben Chut Thai Formal Chut Thai Pha khao ma Pha nung Raj pattern Sabai Sinh Suea pat Tabengman Tudong Vietnam Áo bà ba Áo dài Áo giao lĩnh Áo tứ thân Middle East Abaya Agal Assyrian Bisht Boshiya Burqa Chador Izaar Jewish Kippah Sheitel Tallit Tallit katan Tefillin Tzitzit Jilbāb Keffiyeh Palestinian Kurdish Jamana Niqāb Palestine Keffiyeh Thobe Pandama Sayyah Thawb Turban Hejazi
Europe	Balkan Traditional Albanian clothing Brez Çorape Opinga Qeleshe Xhamadan Xhubleta Croatia Fustanella Greek Chiton Chlamys Himation North Macedonia Romania Serbia Kosovo British Isles Britain Country Court Windsor uniform Union shirt Ireland Scottish highlands Aboyne Feather bonnet Kilt Sporran Trews Scottish lowlands Blue bonnet Maud Wales Central Dirndl Lederhosen Poland Tracht Eastern Armenia Azerbaijan Kelaghayi Ukraine Kobeniak Kozhukh Kozhushanka Ochipok Sharovary Vyshyvanka Ukrainian wreath Russia Kokoshnik Kosovorotka Lapti Orenburg shawl Sarafan Western Netherlands Poffer Kraplap Oorijzer France Breton costume Spain Traje de flamenca Barretina Cachirulo Cordovan hat Sombrero de catite Mantilla Italy Ciocia Coppola cap Nordic Bunad Gákti Iceland Sweden Nationella dräkten Bäckadräkten
South America	Aguayo Chile Chamanto Chilote cap Chilote poncho Chupalla Chullo Guayabera Liqui liqui Lliklla Panama hat Pollera Poncho Ruana
North America	Inuit skin clothing Tignon Ceinture fléchée Western wear Bolo tie Chaps Huipil Mexico Huarache Mexican pointy boots Rebozo Serape Sombrero Quechquemitl
Oceania	Grass skirt Feather cloak I-sala Lap-lap Lavalava Kiekie Pareo Sulu Taʻovala Tēfui Tupenu

v t e Nguyễn dynasty topics
Overview	Sovereign state (1802–1883) French protectorates of Annam and Tonkin (1883–1945) Empire of Vietnam (1945)
History	Sovereign Việt Nam / Đại Nam(Nhà Nguyễn thời độc lập) Nguyễn lords Đàng Trong Nam tiến Six Provinces of Southern Vietnam Citadel of Saigon Nguyễn dynasty's persecution of Catholics in the 19th century Tự Đức's Catholic persecution Văn Thân movement French protectorate(s)(Pháp thuộc, 法屬) French conquest of Vietnam Cần Vương Great Hanoi Rat Massacre Hanoi Exhibition Đông Du Duy Tân Hội Hanoi Poison Plot History of Vietnam during World War I Việt Nam Quang Phục Hội Vietnamese Revolutionary Youth League Việt Nam Quốc Dân Đảng Le Travail movement Communist Party of Vietnam Phú Riềng Đỏ Việt Minh French Indochina in World War II Japanese period Japanese invasion of French Indochina Japanese coup d'état in French Indochina Vietnamese famine of 1944–1945 Abdication of Bảo Đại Declaration of independence of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam
Government	Emperors Gia Long (1802–1820) Minh Mạng (1820–1841) Thiệu Trị (1841–1847) Tự Đức (1847–1883) Dục Đức (1883) Hiệp Hòa (1883) Kiến Phúc (1883–1884) Hàm Nghi (1884–1885) Đồng Khánh (1885–1889) Thành Thái (1889–1907) Duy Tân (1907–1916) Khải Định (1916–1925) Bảo Đại (1925–1945) Ministries & agencies Censorate Court of Judicial Review Court of Imperial Entertainments Court of the Imperial Stud Court of Imperial Sacrifices Office of the National Altars Hàn lâm viện House of People's Representatives of Annam Imperial Clan Court Imperial Household Department Quốc Tử Giám Lục bộ Ministry of Education Nội các Viện cơ mật Symbols Coat of arms Đăng đàn cung Flags Provincial flags Names of the Nguyễn dynasty state (Việt Nam / Đại Nam) Seals of the Nguyễn dynasty Vietnamese dragon Provincial administration Đề Đốc Tuần phủ Tổng Trấn French administration Khâm sứ Trung Kỳ Thống sứ Bắc Kỳ Prominent mandarins Bạch Xuân Nguyên Cao Xuân Dục Jean-Baptiste Chaigneau Jean Marie Despiau Hoàng Cao Khải Hoàng Diệu Hoàng Kế Viêm Michael Hồ Đình Hy Lê Chất Ngô Đình Diệm Ngô Đình Khả Ngô Đình Khôi Nguyễn Trường Tộ Nguyễn Huỳnh Đức Nguyễn Văn Tâm Nguyễn Văn Tồn Nguyễn Văn Nhơn Phan Văn Thúy Phạm Quỳnh Phạm Thận Duật Phan Đình Phùng Phan Thanh Giản Phan Thanh Liêm Nguyễn Tri Phương Thân Văn Nhiếp Nguyễn Ngọc Thơ Thoại Ngọc Hầu Tôn Thất Đính Tôn Thất Thuyết Trần Trọng Kim Trần Cao Vân Đặng Huy Trứ Trương Định Trương Minh Giảng Trương Tấn Bửu Nguyễn Văn Tường Philippe Vannier
Military	Battles and wars Tây Sơn wars French assistance to Nguyễn Ánh Vietnamese invasions of Cambodia Cambodian rebellion (1811–1812) Cambodian rebellion (1820) Ja Lidong rebellion Phan Bá Vành's Rebellion Anouvong's Rebellion against Siam Siamese–Vietnamese War (1831–1834) Nduai Kabait rebellion Nông Văn Vân's Rebellion Katip Sumat's Jihad Ja Thak Wa uprising Lê Văn Khôi revolt Cambodian rebellion (1840) Siamese–Vietnamese War (1841–1845) Bombardment of Tourane (1847) Cochinchina campaign Tonkin campaign Garnier Expedition Sino-French War Ba Dinh uprising / Cần Vương Yên Thế Insurrection Pacification of Tonkin Thái Nguyên uprising Vue Pa Chay's revolt Yên Bái mutiny Uprising of the Nghệ-Tĩnh soviets August Revolution Prominent military personnel Hoàng Kế Viêm Lê Văn Duyệt Lê Văn Khôi Nguyễn Cư Trinh Nguyễn Huỳnh Đức Nguyễn Văn Thành Nguyễn Văn Tồn Nguyễn Văn Nhơn Nguyễn Tri Phương Phan Văn Thúy Trương Minh Giảng
Special administrative regions	Champa Principality of Thuận Thành Principality of Hà Tiên Sip Song Chau Tai Thủy Xá and Hỏa Xá Trấn Ninh Trấn Tây Thành
Palaces & mausoleums	Palaces Imperial City of Huế Meridian Gate Tombs Thien Tho Mausoleum Khiêm Mausoleum An Mausoleum Ứng Mausoleum
Society & culture	Áo dài Đại Nam nhất thống chí Đại Nam thực lục Hoàng Lê nhất thống chí Khâm định Việt sử Thông giám cương mục Khăn vấn Woodblocks of the Nguyễn Dynasty
Education	Imperial Academy, Huế Imperial examination Confucian court examination system in Vietnam Quốc Học – Huế High School for the Gifted Société d’Enseignement Mutuel du Tonkin Tonkin Free School
Currency	Cash coins Tự Đức Thông Bảo Tự Đức Bảo Sao Khải Định Thông Bảo Bảo Đại Thông Bảo Currency units Văn Mạch Quán Tiền Colonial currencies French Indochinese piastre
Laws	Hương ước
Treaties	Saigon (1862) Huế (1863) Saigon (1874) Huế (1883) Huế (1884)
Orders, decorations, and medals	Bai Imperial Order of the Dragon of Annam Kim Khánh
Other topics	Domain of the Crown Economy of the Nguyễn dynasty until 1884 Esplanade of Sacrifice to the Heaven and Earth House of Nguyễn Phúc Long Wall of Quảng Ngãi Postage stamps and postal history of Annam and Tongking Thoại Hà Canal Vĩnh Tế Canal Tôn Thất Vietnamese nationalism