China-Vietnam: How To Cross Hekou/Lao Cai Border - Fabio Nodari

In this travel guide, I explain how to cross the border between China and Vietnam from Hekou (河口) to Lao Cai.

Yellow fields in rural China near the Vietnam border, with mountains and a village in the background.

You won’t find much if you are looking for information about crossing the border between China and Vietnam. One reason is that the border has been closed for many years, and another is that it’s not the most common way to enter Vietnam (or China).

However, I can give you some helpful tips since I crossed the bridge separating these two countries. This article explains how to get from China to Vietnam, but you can do the same thing in the opposite direction.

An interesting fact about the new high-speed line that connects Kunming to Hekou is that the French originally built the first railway at the beginning of the ‘900 to exploit Yunnan’s natural resources. As I wrote here, a few Italian workers were also sent to build a famous bridge. It’s a truly fascinating story.

How to get to Hekou (河口)

Inside a Chinese train: Passengers seated, luggage overhead. Travel in China.

When I talk about the China–Vietnam border, I’m referring specifically to the crossing between Hekou (in Yunnan, China) and Lao Cai (in northern Vietnam). This is one of the most convenient and commonly used land crossings.

There are two main ways to get to Hekou: by bus or by train. The train is usually cheaper, faster, and much more comfortable. It would take a whole separate article to explain how China’s train system works, from the different train types to how to buy tickets, but here’s the short version: I recommend booking through Trip.com. It’s straightforward, works in English, and lets you choose your seat type in advance.

Traveling by train in China is a great experience on its own. You’ll pass through rice fields, small villages, and green hills, so keep your camera ready.

Once you arrive in Hekou, getting to the border is simple. You can either take a taxi right outside the station or hop on one of the local buses that head straight for the crossing point. Both options are cheap, and the ride only takes a few minutes.

China-Vietnam border crossing

China-Vietnam border crossing: Exit sign in Chinese, Vietnamese, and English. "Exit XUẤT CẢNH

The first thing to do is to enter the small building with the big “Exit” text. Don’t forget to check if you need a Visa to enter Vietnam. Every country is different, and you can’t get a visa upon arrival at this border.

Once you have passed the security checks in China, you can cross the bridge that separates China from Vietnam.

After a few hundred meters, you will be on the other side of the bridge and be able to enter the building where the Vietnamese authorities check passports.

China-Vietnam border crossing gate in Hekou, China. Text: "中国河口" (China Hekou)
Vietnam-China border gate with the text "NƯỚC CỘNG HÒA XÃ HỘI CHỦ NGHĨA VIỆT NAM.

There are usually very few people, and the authorities shouldn’t take long to check your passports.

Once you cross the border, you’ll be approached by a crowd of Vietnamese people who will ask you if you need to change money. Avoid them and walk to the ATM nearby, at the end of the big square, if you need local money.

Lao Cai International Border Gate building, Vietnam. Crossing the Cina-Vietnam border.

Lao Cai (the city bordering China) does not have much to offer. If you still want to rest after the trip, you can find some cheap hotels on Booking.com.

Usually, tourists continue their trip and visit Sapa or Hanoi (here is my guide). If you have to go to Sapa, you can take one of the minivans in the square just outside the border or (even better) take the public bus that costs much less and offers the same service. If you prefer a private transfer or want to join a group tour, you will find many options on GetYourGuide.

If you are wondering if it’s better to visit Sapa or Yuanyang in China, check out my article.

Terraced rice paddies in Vietnam, with a village visible in the misty distance.

If you are heading south and want to visit Hanoi or any other place, you can take a train or a bus from Sapa. You can book the train from this website.

As a last reminder, some websites are blocked in Vietnam and China. Please remember to get a VPN before you get there. If you need an eSIM, I recommend this one. As for travel insurance, I recommend this one.

Yunnan also borders Laos, and you can easily cross the border between Mohan in China and Boten in Laos. Here, you can read my guide.

Here, you can find some pics I took in Vietnam. Here is an article about Shenzhen, the Chinese Silicon Valley

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