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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Engine Block Cast # I.D.

• Thread starter Southerner
• Start date Dec 10, 2003

S

Southerner

Full Member

Joined Apr 9, 2003 Messages 341 I've got a 71 that supposedly has a 351W in it (info from the PO at purchase). I had no idea what it was when I bought it. I've since talked myself into thinking that it's a 302. Anyway, I've searched all of the forums and I think I might have a 351W but I am still not sure. So, for all the engine I.D. experts out there tell me what you think. Engine Block Cast # C90E-6015 B 7 From what I've found, I know the year was 1969 and built in Fairlane/Torino. I also read that one way to tell is measuring the width of the intake manifold (302 should be 9", 351W should be 11"). I measured and mine is 11". Thanks in advance for all of the help

kwspony

Bronco Guru

Joined Apr 28, 2003 Messages 1,114 Loc. Roseville sounds like a 351. which side is the timing marks on. The 351's are usuallu on the left side but when doing the swap most people use the front off the 302 to keep the timing marks and water hoses on the same side as the 302. D

Dogdare

Full Member

Joined Sep 23, 2003 Messages 361 BTW, how did you correlate the block number to the vehicle model? I've got my 351W's block number (which is very similar to yours), but out of curiosity, I'd like to know what it originally came from. block i.d.: C9OE-6015-B4 thanks, Herb OP OP S

Southerner

Full Member

Joined Apr 9, 2003 Messages 341

Dogdare said: BTW, how did you correlate the block number to the vehicle model? I've got my 351W's block number (which is very similar to yours), but out of curiosity, I'd like to know what it originally came from. block i.d.: C9OE-6015-B4 thanks, Herb Click to expand...

I'll have to check the timing marks when I get home, but thanks for the info. To answer your question, the C is for 1960's (as A=1940's,B=1950's,C=1960's, etc.) In other words the first letter tells you the decade the block was cast. The 9 is the year in that decade, so C9=1969, as D5 would be 1975. The next letter is the plant that it was built in, yours is the same as mine, O is from Fairlane/Torino. I found this on a site that explains the ford numbering system: (http://www.pacificnet.net/~fastoso/castingcode.html) It has the complete list on the site. The E is for the Engine Engineering Department. The numbers 6015 is just a standard engine parts number, where an intake or head would have a different number. I never found out if 6015 correlated to the cubic inch of the engine or not but I don't think it does. I also don't know what the B4 stands for, but I would imagine some one on this site does. Hope this helps. D

Dogdare

Full Member

Joined Sep 23, 2003 Messages 361 ;D Thanks! I knew it was a '69 block, but I never knew from what model line. Herb OP OP S

Southerner

Full Member

Joined Apr 9, 2003 Messages 341 Can anybody else verify this along with Dogdare or at least tell me what the last two digits B7 of my engine block cast number mean. I have also heard that the cubic inch of the block is stamped on the heads, is this true? Thanks. B

Bart

Bronco Guru

Joined Dec 12, 2001 Messages 1,689 Loc. Buffalo Gap, Texas they're not stamped on the heads they're cast into the heads. You should see a 351 and the C9 etc. if the heads are orginal 69. The orginal 69 heads had 60.4 cc combustion chambers. Makes for some high compression. Also, the block deck height is taller in thousands of an inch than the mid and later 70s blocks. Need to be careful here or you could have pistons hitting the head/valves after a rebuild. OP OP S

Southerner

Full Member

Joined Apr 9, 2003 Messages 341

Bart said: they're not stamped on the heads they're cast into the heads. You should see a 351 and the C9 etc. if the heads are orginal 69. The orginal 69 heads had 60.4 cc combustion chambers. Makes for some high compression. Also, the block deck height is taller in thousands of an inch than the mid and later 70s blocks. Need to be careful here or you could have pistons hitting the head/valves after a rebuild. Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll dig into it further tommorw and see what I find. You must log in or register to reply here.

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