G28 Engine Speed Sensor Error | VW Golf R32 Forum

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4motionblack Hi Peeps, Had the above error for a while, checked the cam sensors with oscilliscope, all ok. The crank position/speed sensor was reading 950 ohms, the new sensor i purchased read 800 ohms. (apparently it should read between 400-800) So i replaced the sensor and reset the fault codes, straight awaythe same fault code instantly appeared. Reset it several times but re-appeared every time. Whilst scratching my head :hmmmm:, i noticed a noise that sounded like rushing air leaking, found a cracked vacuum hose split leading from a black canister on left side of engine bay round the back to i think the throttle body? Taped it up as a temporary fix till i order a new one, car ticked over smoothly and cleared the codes and runs very well! Anyone had this fault before, i have a spare crank sensor if anyone wants one? I'm not a mechanic, but learning fast, there is not a lot of info about this fault or how to go about testing etc. just thought i'd share this with you lot in case it could help anyone. Please feel free to comment. Cheers #1 · Oct 30, 2010 Hi Peeps, Had the above error for a while, checked the cam sensors with oscilliscope, all ok. The crank position/speed sensor was reading 950 ohms, the new sensor i purchased read 800 ohms. (apparently it should read between 400-800) So i replaced the sensor and reset the fault codes, straight awaythe same fault code instantly appeared. Reset it several times but re-appeared every time. Whilst scratching my head :hmmmm:, i noticed a noise that sounded like rushing air leaking, found a cracked vacuum hose split leading from a black canister on left side of engine bay round the back to i think the throttle body? Taped it up as a temporary fix till i order a new one, car ticked over smoothly and cleared the codes and runs very well! Anyone had this fault before, i have a spare crank sensor if anyone wants one? I'm not a mechanic, but learning fast, there is not a lot of info about this fault or how to go about testing etc. just thought i'd share this with you lot in case it could help anyone. Please feel free to comment. Cheers See less See more Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Oct 31, 2010 Sounds odd - the black canister on the left of the engine bay could be the EVAP system (its normal for it to tick away). The throttle body is to the back right of the engine. Any pics ? #3 · Oct 31, 2010 (Edited by Moderator) I'll get some pics up later if i get chance. Here you go, its the black hose between the water exp tank and the window washer tank, the hose goes round the back of the engine and is ribbed/flexi on the bend, it has just cracked/split in several places. It comes from the evap tank? past the power steering resvoir and down the back of the engine, then 'T's off just before the throttle body. can anyone understand that? Its still throwing up faults, but not instantly, i think my temporary fix is leaking air!! If i got my local garage to do a vacuum test/reading would this indicate any air leaks? If so, what sort of vacuum should be achieved in terms of torr, kpa, mbar, inhg etc?

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#4 · Nov 15, 2010 Hi peeps, After doing all of the above and replacing crank position sensor and spunking £47 on a piece of hose from VW i cleared the codes and car ran fairly smooth for a while, but still had some hesitation throught the rev range. I cannot tell if there are any more air leaks. Has anyone got any suggestions, im banging my head now. Just give the car a full service, oil, plugs filters etc. I'm just hoping its somethin i can sort myself. I'm not worrying about chains etc, as i believe this was not an affected model?! Any advice/input would be much apreciated, i'm staying away from the stealers as i do want to learn as much as i can. Below is the scan results Cheers --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Saturday, 09 October 2010, 18:56:58 VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 BG Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1 0004 Software Coding: 0000132 Work Shop Code: WSC 00499 2 Faults Found: 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded 17755 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P1347 - 002 - Please Register/Activate --------------------------------------------------------------------------- #5 · Nov 15, 2010 Hmm.... I'm no expert, but above you've said you'd replaced the crank position sensor, but your error codes point to the cam position sensor. I think an independent specialist would be best - are you near of the of the site sponsors ? #6 · Nov 16, 2010

Toffs said: Hmm.... I'm no expert, but above you've said you'd replaced the crank position sensor, but your error codes point to the cam position sensor. I think an independent specialist would be best - are you near of the of the site sponsors ? Click to expand...

Hi, I used to get camshaft position sensor Bank 2, so i swapped the sensors over and it stayed on bank 2 so i guess that the sensors are ok as the fault stays the same and doesn't follow the 'part/sensor'. I think i'll do some continuity/resistance tests on the wiring from the ecu to the cam positioners and crank sensor, make sure there is no break or corrosion on the cables. So thatswhere i'm up to at the min. I think Awesome is located near to me, Irlam way.? Cheers Toffs. #7 · Jan 8, 2011

4motionblack said: 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation Click to expand...

Incorrect correlation suggests that the hall sensor in the dizzy disagrees with the crank sensor about where TDC on Cylinder 1 is. Surely this suggests that your dizzy is way out of line. #8 · Jan 9, 2011 dizzy ? #9 · Jan 9, 2011

Toffs said: dizzy ? Click to expand...

X2 #10 · Jan 9, 2011

spider said: X2 Click to expand...

Dizzy - I think he was trying to refer to the old school distributor which of course the R doesn't have. #11 · Jan 9, 2011

cuprabob said: Dizzy - I think he was trying to refer to the old school distributor which of course the R doesn't have. Click to expand...

Yes, I think we all think that, perhaps sweavo is a bit dizzy ? #12 · Feb 13, 2011 Hi Peeps, Quick update, I have given the engine a flush through and replaced the oil filter/oil, after speaking to awesome they said that the vari cams could be sticking. I went for a good spirited drive to get everything moving and the oil flowing. i cleared the codes in the memory. Now only the 17748 code re-appears and the car seems more drivable with less hesitation. Now and then it drives like its supposed to then it holds back, but if i give it some near to the redline for a bit, the engine stays responsive, its like something is sticking?! I did replace the chain tensioner also a month ago, but this made no difference. I'm gonna re-check the cam sensors, is there any solenoids for the cams that could be full of shit and sticking and easy accessable? Any input, much apreciated. Cheers Steve #13 · Feb 16, 2011 (Edited by Moderator) I had a similar problem. In addition to the car being hesitant (and the cruise control not working) it was holding back as the engine RPM increased up towards 5500. VAG-COM said that the gearbox speed sensor was at fault. See: http://www.r32oc.com/performance-technical/29665-golf-iv-r32-gearbox-speed-sensor-problem.html In the end it was a bloody plug on the back of the MFD which hadn't been properly fastened. Who would have thought that it could have such a profound effect on how the car drives? #14 · Feb 16, 2011

Gould said: I had a similar problem. In addition to the car being hesitant (and the cruise control not working) it was holding back as the engine RPM increased up towards 5500. VAG-COM said that the gearbox speed sensor was at fault. See: http://www.r32oc.com/performance-technical/29665-golf-iv-r32-gearbox-speed-sensor-problem.html In the end it was a bloody plug on the back of the MFD which hadn't been properly fastened. Who would have thought that it could have such a profound effect on how the car drives? Click to expand...

Cheers for the info Gould, I,ll have a look at the MFD this weekend and see what's going on plus I'm going to order a coil pack as well in case, plus I don't have a spare anyway if it's not a coilpack. Cheers #15 · Sep 1, 2013 I know this is digging up an old thread but just wondered what the outcome was? I have code 17748 after I have done my engine conversion which I changed the chains/tensioners on. Could it be possible that I've got the timing wrong? Was just going to start replacing sensors rather than go through the hassle of checking the timing again but if there is a definitive answer then I'll go down that route first. #16 · Sep 1, 2013 Ello dude, You've checked the sensors are in tight? It's well known that the G28/hall sensors work there way undone causing error codes when all is needed is torqueing them back up ? #17 · Sep 3, 2013 One of them was loose a while back, will have to check again but I'm pretty certain my timing is out by a tooth now so Dan is going to check it for me. How's your car anyway? Show more replies 0 Reply #19 · Jun 7, 2016 Sorry to revive an old thread but it seems I'm having the exact same issue as 4motionblack had, did this ever get resolved or has anyone else ever experienced this? When Gould said a plug on the back of the MFD is he meaning the head unit? Can't see how this could relate back to the engine? Insert Quotes Post Reply

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