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GLI03VR6 said: Am I doing something wrong? It won't display 1000, all it displays is SAFE. Do I need to wait longer? I drove the car home from the seller and it still only displayed SAFE. If someone could help that would be great! Thanks Click to expand...This just happened to me and I was able to fix the issue just yesterday after weeks of searching around. After you enter the wrong code twice it will lock up in SAFE mode. Once that happens you need to reset the radio by leaving the radio on for 1hr. The car doesn't need to be running, the key just needs to be in the on position. After an hour the radio will display 1000, and you can enter the code again. This worked for me on my Volk-L head unit, but I think the process is the same for mk4 OEM stereos. Good luck! #5 · Dec 8, 2014 Is the code you input found in the manual somewhere? Show more replies 0 Reply #7 · Dec 8, 2014 (Edited) If the car is a 2001 and/or newer and the radio is original to the car it should reset by itself w/o the radio code. If the car is older than an '01 and/or the radio is not original to the car then anytime the power is interrupted it will go to SAFE mode. After two incorrect attempts to unlock it, it goes into SAFE mode for an hour locked. you can get a radio code from a cooperative dealer with your VIN # (they don't really need it, but usually want it to know you haven't stolen something) and the radio serial number, which is on the radio chassis. You need to remove the radio to find that. Some dealers now charge a fee for retrieving this info, but the owner's manual says they should provide it n/c. There is a card in the owner's manual that should of had the code written on it and a warning NOT to keep this card in the car. All this info is in the owner's manual. As if someone would really steal an OEM VW radio anyways.... If you get real frustrated and can't get the radio code n/c, consider an aftermarket head unit. Even a modestly priced aftermarket unit will provide much better sound performance than the OEM VW/Clarion unit. The OEM units look nice, but are fairly low end for "Premium" sound system components. . #10 · Dec 12, 2014 (Edited) I'm assuming that you mean the engine turns/cranks over, but doesn't fire up. If you insert the key and turn to "ON" (not Start/Crank position) do all the gauge cluster warning lights come on as they should? Maybe the key and immobilizer are not friends anymore. Turn key to ON and wait ten minutes, then try to start. #11 · Dec 13, 2014 No cluster lights like before. Only the battery light turns on. Checked continuity on ALL fuses (even the ones on the battery under the cover) and they were all good. Tried the 10 minutes, still no joy. I think my starter motor may be shot. Only get clicking when trying to crank. Show more replies 0 Reply #18 · Dec 13, 2014 Voltage is pretty low. Dome lights, etc come on? If there is enough power for those, the dash cluster lights should certainly power up, but probably not enough to for the solenoid to engage starter. #20 · Dec 17, 2014 (Edited) Finally got the lower dash removed and was able to find the relay 109, even though it's now labeled 100. When applying 12 volts to the relay, the switch closes but the resistance across the other contacts goes to 0 but bounces around to ~2 ohms.
#21 · Dec 17, 2014 Is the car in question a TDI? I notice some reference to diesel below relay 409. If its not a TDI, I'm not sure about if there is a relay 109 or not in the gas engine cars, but the relay 109 in TDI has been known to fail frequently, often intermittently, if it were an original. Replace it with a new/known good one to test it. Show more replies 0 Reply #23 · Dec 17, 2014 I always carry a spare 109 relay in the TDIs, although never had to replace one (yet). They are available at NAPA, etc and are relatively cheap. Good luck! #24 · Dec 17, 2014 Thanks for all the help! I may eventually try to swap out the current one with a new one just to be thorough. 0 Reply Insert Quotes Post Reply - ?
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