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A couple weeks ago I thought I should repaint my Yellow Welly LP560-4 since I already have a yellow Gallardo SE. Since I have orange, white, grey and yellow already, but I didn't have a green one, I figured that would be the perfect color. So I went to the hobby shop and ordered 2 cans of TS-22 Tamiya paint (I already had one). While I was waiting for the paint to arrive I took the model apart and stripped the paint off of it. after stripping the paint I washed it thouroughly with soapy water and dried the parts with a micro fiber towel. I then coated them with some automotive primer I purchased at Canadian Tire. By then the paint order had arrived so I painted it right after the primer was dry (about 3 hours) 24 hours later I taped the model off and sprayed the black window trim. 24 hours after that I pealed off the tape and some patches of paint came with. (green painters tape) I figured at this point it was my fault for not sanding the metal, so I stripped it again and sanded the body with 320 grit paper. reprimed it. 2 days later I sanded it. Burned through a couple small spots, but I didn't think it would show. I was wrong. burned through spots barely looked green so I sanded it down and tried to primer only the parts that needed to. That turned out more difficult than i thought but after 4 or 5 tries i got the body nice and smooth, without burning through any spots. Cleaned the parts. Painted them green. Doesn't that look great?

waited 2 days, masked off the body, painted black window and door trim. All the while hoping I would have it on the shelf by the weekend. 24 hours later I removed the masking tape to reveal this...

I wasn't going to show this model until it was finished, but after 3 attempts at painting this thing, I've blown through my supply of TS-22, and I don't think I can afford to by any more until it will likely be too cold to paint around here anymore. It looks like I have another half finished project that will be sitting on the shelf for over a year. My question is why? What did I do wrong? Is it the primer? The primer and paint seem to stick together just fine, why won't this automotive grade primer stick to the metal? is it the soapy water I'm using to clean the model? That's what I've used for every project I've done, so I can't see why now would be any different. Anyone have any suggestions? #1 · Jul 31, 2011 A couple weeks ago I thought I should repaint my Yellow Welly LP560-4 since I already have a yellow Gallardo SE. Since I have orange, white, grey and yellow already, but I didn't have a green one, I figured that would be the perfect color. So I went to the hobby shop and ordered 2 cans of TS-22 Tamiya paint (I already had one). While I was waiting for the paint to arrive I took the model apart and stripped the paint off of it. after stripping the paint I washed it thouroughly with soapy water and dried the parts with a micro fiber towel. I then coated them with some automotive primer I purchased at Canadian Tire. By then the paint order had arrived so I painted it right after the primer was dry (about 3 hours) 24 hours later I taped the model off and sprayed the black window trim. 24 hours after that I pealed off the tape and some patches of paint came with. (green painters tape) I figured at this point it was my fault for not sanding the metal, so I stripped it again and sanded the body with 320 grit paper. reprimed it. 2 days later I sanded it. Burned through a couple small spots, but I didn't think it would show. I was wrong. burned through spots barely looked green so I sanded it down and tried to primer only the parts that needed to. That turned out more difficult than i thought but after 4 or 5 tries i got the body nice and smooth, without burning through any spots. Cleaned the parts. Painted them green. Doesn't that look great?

waited 2 days, masked off the body, painted black window and door trim. All the while hoping I would have it on the shelf by the weekend. 24 hours later I removed the masking tape to reveal this...

3 Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jul 31, 2011 Well that sucks! Maybe try using a metal etching primer? #3 · Jul 31, 2011 Dunno, may be because you did not use primer that intended to use on metal surface, and to my experience, canned primer is not good on metal surface, no matter what the advertising said. Try ordinary automotive primer if you don't have acces to metal etching primer, or just avoid the canned primer. Hope it help... #4 · Jul 31, 2011 Use tamiya primer and a less-adhesive masking tape. I've used tamiya primer and then used masking tape with no problems #5 · Jul 31, 2011 its most likely the masking tape, use tamiya masking tape. failing that it could be the primer as mentioned, use automotive primers and paints. #6 · Jul 31, 2011 It is the primer, diecast is not the same as painting steel. Get some Self Etching primer available at most auto parts stores, get a name brand, and apply a uniform thin coat over the entire item. I wipe the item down good with rubbing alcohol just before spraying. If the item needs it you can use regular auto primer next, otherwise sand very lightly with 400 and spray the top coat. I normally only wait 24 hr between primer and top coat. As noted Tamiya or automotive striping tapes are helpful and provide a finer line, but you still need the paint to stick first. AzTom #7 · Jul 31, 2011 What they said. You definately need metal etching primer. Regular can(automotive) primer you need to let it dry and then sand before painting. More than 3 hours because even though the primer feels dry it isn't. The metal etch primer should be able to be top coated when after it flashes(or dries to the touch) usually about 15 min or so. You can use it like a sealer or wait until it totally dries and then sand it. If you do it the first way then do not sand it because it is still setting up. Also I'd wait longer before taping to the freshly painted paint(more than 2 days) Maybe a week or more. I wouldn't leave the tape on the paint for any more time than you need to for painting the black. Get it off as soon as possible. If the paint is fresh it is still breathing and solvents are still trying to escape. The tape will prevent the solvents in the paint from getting out so the paint can cure. This is trapping them and causing the solvents to soften the paint and it can release the bond between the metal and primer. Anyway, good luck with your next attempt. It sure does look cool green. #8 · Jul 31, 2011 :agreed: #9 · Aug 3, 2011 Thanks for the pointers. I find it really strange that this has happened because I've done this a few times before and used the same products. I will look for some etch primer, as what I was using is scratch filler primer. the project will have to be shelved for the time being. Hopefully I will be able to revisit this model before the weather gets to cold around here. #10 · Aug 7, 2011 How is it going now ? Hope you got it sorted... #11 · Aug 7, 2011 After my purple one gets finished I may have to do a green one as well. Looks great #12 · Aug 7, 2011 1) sanding 2) primer 3) sanding again 4) painting 4) varnashing And Tamiya maskign tape is great... #13 · Aug 7, 2011 I actually face the same problem sometimes. And like you, it works well most of the time. Lol. Same primer, same masking tape...but different results sometimes. #14 · Aug 7, 2011 Tamiya spray paint does not bond well with automotive primer. Go look for Tamiya masking tape (yellow) it is much softer than green tape. #15 · Aug 8, 2011 no problem with the paint bonding to the primer. it's peeling off clean right down to the bare metal. 0 Reply #16 · Aug 8, 2011 (Edited by Moderator) Yes.. First use metal primer.. I Suggest metal primer from tamiya for PE parts.. This primer is good! Then use white or grey primer from tamiya too! one or two cote is enoug.. Just to cover body becouse metal primer by tamiya is clear

But! Let it dry for 24hours.. First metal primer.. wait 1 day.. Put white or grey primer.. Leave it for 1 day.. Thank put collor on it.. But not only one cote.. Do more easy cots.. After that leave it for 1 - 2 days.. Maybe three

And again I suggest automotive 2k clear! It's so stronge and gives you nice shine if you don't want to polished it

And correct.. Tamiya masking tape is the best masking tape on the earth for moddeling

So use Tamiya tape! I know it's cost more than others.. But it's worth

#17 · Aug 9, 2011 Automotive basecoat needs to be top coated within 18 hours or it needs to be sanded and reapplied. I'd reccomend clearing after 15 min or a little more. If you use spray can paint then it's a totally different game. 0 Reply #18 · Aug 9, 2011 It works on my M3 CSL

#19 · Aug 9, 2011 It's more for cars that will be out in the sun and weather(1:1). It may be fine for diecasts kept inside, but I'd be a little more careful with them because the clear is not bonded to the base coat. Just what I know from experience and being an automotive painter. 0 Reply Insert Quotes Post Reply

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