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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Drilling out seized bolts in bodywork
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JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 349
Drilling out seized bolts in bodywork
Hi, looking for some advice please. My ladder is starting to rust & there's corrosion around some of the bolt holes. So I thought it would be a simple job to unscrew the ladder and treat the problems before it all gets too bad. The first bolt unscrewed easily enough but of course all the others are seized solid. It doesn't help that the bolts are of the small hex socket type (probably better suited for bicycles) which its impossible to get any grip on. I'm thinking I'll need to drill them out whilst avoiding damaging the rivnuts. Any advice on undertaking such an operation & what are the best drill bits for such a job? Many thanks.
10th May 2020 3:59pm
The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 303
I would try Loctite 8040 – Freeze & Release, it’s not cheap, but is easier than drilling. The problem is a hex cap screw is they are often high tensile so are an alloyed steel, making them harder to drill; new sharp drill bits, a good drill with fine speed control and patience is probably what's needed. Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus SilverNot just transport more like a religion
10th May 2020 6:02pm
Daisy90 Member Since: 01 Feb 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 845
If you do go down the route of drilling them out, I can highly recommend left handed / reverse drill bits The added benefit using them Is whilst drilling out it creates heat and can loosen the bolt, worse case it just makes a nice hole, best case it loosens the bolt and comes out on the drill bit, I have a handful of sizes that had saved the day a number of times, Only tip is - don’t buy cheap ones Hope this helps if you need it
10th May 2020 6:21pm
gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5146
Blacksmiths drill bits are the ones you should use. Reasonably priced available from tool station and Screwfix. These bits will drill through any metal and stay sharp for a long time.For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
10th May 2020 6:28pm
JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 349
Thank you for all your advice. Very much appreciated.
10th May 2020 7:22pm
bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2242
Drill the whole lot out. Treat the corrosion. Replace the rivnut
10th May 2020 8:27pm
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18169
gilarion wrote:
Blacksmiths drill bits are the ones you should use. Reasonably priced available from tool station and Screwfix. These bits will drill through any metal and stay sharp for a long time.
What do you mean by "blacksmiths drill"? A blacksmiths drill is generally the name given to a large (well, moderately large) HSS twist drill with a reduced shank. In other words the sort of thing you might use if you needed to drill a 3/4" hole and the chuck of your drill was limited to 1/2". Such a bit probably wouldn't be much use in this situation!
10th May 2020 8:51pm
jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8542
I would imagine that the rivnut is u/s and therefore I wouldnt bother trying to save it. Drill or grind the head off and knock rivnut through and replace with new.Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop
10th May 2020 9:10pm
Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2437
^^^ What James has said, the rivnuts will be scrap, save yourself the work and cut the heads off. MoThe Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey
11th May 2020 7:10am
ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831
blackwolf wrote:
gilarion wrote:
Blacksmiths drill bits are the ones you should use. Reasonably priced available from tool station and Screwfix. These bits will drill through any metal and stay sharp for a long time.
What do you mean by "blacksmiths drill"? A blacksmiths drill is generally the name given to a large (well, moderately large) HSS twist drill with a reduced shank. In other words the sort of thing you might use if you needed to drill a 3/4" hole and the chuck of your drill was limited to 1/2". Such a bit probably wouldn't be much use in this situation!
Correct, Blacksmith drills are no harder than ordinary drills. If you are drilling anything to preserve the drill life the drill bit should be cooled and lubricated with something such as Roco Rtd Tri-logic Cutting Lubricant it is expensive but I have found it to be the best. Start with a small drill bit and work up gradually, take your time, don't try and force the drill through, let the drill bit do the work. If the ladder is on the back is it possible to look behind the panels, the reason I ask is that someone I know had a dealer fit his ladder and the mechanic put nuts on the back to prevent the theft of the ladder.Don't make old people mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to us off. Richard
11th May 2020 8:38am
JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 349
Thanks for all the advice. Ladder is off & I've drilled out 4 of the 6 rivnuts. Hell of a job! 2 still to do,, but my wife said she couldn't work with all that racket!!! So I'm waiting for an opportune moment to drill the remains of the last 2 bolts & rivnuts out. My plan had been to tidy everything up and then refit the ladder, but now I've seen what a mess its all in I'm wondering whether there's any ladders that don't require to bolt into the panels. It seems to me a couple of bolts into the cross member & clamping onto the gutter should be enough. I certainly want to avoid 2 top, 4 middle & 2 big ones at the bottom which is what I have now. So many corrosion points. Then I could fill and paint the holes & not need to worry about corrosion (on this one particular part of my 110 anyway! ) Once again thanks for all the advice.
11th May 2020 2:21pm
gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5146
blackwolf wrote:
gilarion wrote:
Blacksmiths drill bits are the ones you should use. Reasonably priced available from tool station and Screwfix. These bits will drill through any metal and stay sharp for a long time.
What do you mean by "blacksmiths drill"? A blacksmiths drill is generally the name given to a large (well, moderately large) HSS twist drill with a reduced shank. In other words the sort of thing you might use if you needed to drill a 3/4" hole and the chuck of your drill was limited to 1/2". Such a bit probably wouldn't be much use in this situation!
These are the sizes available from tool station £4.69 ex. VAT £3.91 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 14mm (73936) 20+ Available Each £3.28 ex. VAT £2.73 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 16mm (90504) 20+ Available Each £4.21 ex. VAT £3.51 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 18mm (22649) 20+ Available Each HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 19mm (18431) 2 Available Each £4.64 ex. VAT £3.87 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 20mm (55192) 20+ Available Each £4.86 ex. VAT £4.05 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 22mm (66203) 20 Available Each £7.98 ex. VAT £6.65 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 25mm (95298) 20+ Available EachFor those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1Last edited by gilarion on 11th May 2020 3:10pm. Edited 1 time in total
11th May 2020 3:09pm
jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8542
i have one ladder that bolts to gutter clamp and then 2 body mounts above the number plate light. the other one i have goes on crossmember and back of rack. (patriot)Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop
11th May 2020 3:10pm
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18169
gilarion wrote:
... These are the sizes available from tool station £4.69 ex. VAT £3.91 HSS Blacksmith Drill Bit 14mm (73936) ... etc ...
Those will be reduced shank HSS twist drills, since most power drill chucks are either 10mm or 12mm capacity, aside from the reduced shank they are just HSS twist drills! I don't really see though why you'd want a drill bit that large (14mm +) to drill out seized bolt in bodywork (the OP's question) since I cannot offhand think of any bolts or setscrews used on a Landrover body larger than 8mm diameter. My advice would be just to buy a good set of HSS drills (i.e., Dormer, or another equally reputable make) and look after them. For drilling out seized bolts a left hand flute twist drill is perfect, but they are rather specialist and not quite so easy to find.
11th May 2020 5:27pm
JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 349
I've now drilled them all out & feeling relieved that part of the jobs over. I have four 6mm holes, one 8mm & one 1cm !!! - Don't ask !!!
11th May 2020 6:39pm
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10th May 2020 3:59pm
Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion 
us off. Richard 
So I'm waiting for an opportune moment to drill the remains of the last 2 bolts & rivnuts out. My plan had been to tidy everything up and then refit the ladder, but now I've seen what a mess its all in I'm wondering whether there's any ladders that don't require to bolt into the panels. It seems to me a couple of bolts into the cross member & clamping onto the gutter should be enough. I certainly want to avoid 2 top, 4 middle & 2 big ones at the bottom which is what I have now. So many corrosion points. Then I could fill and paint the holes & not need to worry about corrosion (on this one particular part of my 110 anyway! 
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