| Forum Index -> Beetle - 1958-1967 -> How to remove a distributor drive shaft | | View original topic: How to remove a distributor drive shaft | Page: 1, 2 Next | | mac-vw | Tue May 15, 2007 7:30 pm | | Hey everyone. I know this is probably a dumb question and one that has probably already been asked and answered a thousand times, but this is the first car I have ever worked on and am learning everything about the mechanics of cars from this experience so I guess I am going to have to ask it for the thousand and first time. How do you remove a distributor drive shaft from the engine block once it has been put into place incorrectly without having to buy that special VW tool that cost about $60 (I have already spent more than I can afford on parts to put this thing back together). I have tried using needle nose pliars and spreading them in the small round hole in the center of the shaft, I have tried using magnets and nothing seems to work. My car is a 73 super with the stock 1600 engine. I am using a SVDA distributor on it. And while I am at it. When I do install the SVDA there is no way, and I mean no way, that the rotor will be at 4 oclock when I have the engine turned to top dead center on the #1 cylinder. It is going to be pointing somewhere in the 2 oclock range. Is this correct? (every reference book I check says that the rotor should be pointed at the 4 oclock position). It is an after market part that I purchased from Aircooled.net and even the guys there say that the rotor should be pointing at the four oclock position. As I understand it, the correct way to install the drive shaft is when the slot in the shaft is parallel to the engine case and perpendicular to the split in the case with the small offset twards the pully. Is it possible that I have a defective distributor? And as far as I can tell the rotor can only go on one way. Well any help I can get would be much appreciated. Sorry if this has rambled but I am not sure what is important information when asking a question. | | | KTPhil | Tue May 15, 2007 7:36 pm | | Try turning the motor forwards and backwards--sometimes that makes the shaft pop up so you can grab it with your needle nose pliers. | | | mac-vw | Tue May 15, 2007 8:38 pm | | I tried to rotate the engine back and forth, however that shaft is in there but good. Thanks for trying to help. | | | glutamodo | Wed May 16, 2007 6:45 am | | The SVDA looks like this when installed correctly. Most reference books are talking about earlier dizzys when they show #1 at 4 o'clock. | | | bill may | Wed May 16, 2007 6:57 am | | you can remove the drive pinion by removing the distributor,remove the small spring in center of pinion and tap a wooden chop stick or pencil into hole in center of shaft. pull up while rotating the chop stick pencil and it will come out. free chop stick or pencil saves $60 | | | glutamodo | Wed May 16, 2007 7:49 am | | Yeah, I've done the pencil method like Bill mentioned, many times before, and it works pretty good (a real wood pencil, not one of those masonite types) | | | KTPhil | Wed May 16, 2007 9:04 am | | You might also try a small tap, threaded just enough to grip, then pull up. | | | mac-vw | Wed May 16, 2007 11:42 am | | Would it hurt the shaft if I have that center hole where the spring goes threaded at a machine shop after I get it out (that way I can just put a lag bolt or some such in it for future placement and or removal- I have already put it in there wrong once) And speaking of the spring, what purpose does it serve? Just wondering. | | | Joey | Wed May 16, 2007 12:38 pm | | Just make sure you don't loose the two spacer washers that are under the shaft down into the engine. | | | KTPhil | Wed May 16, 2007 1:46 pm | | The spring is called an "anti-chatter" spring, and it takes up the play between the drive dogs of the distributor and drive gear. | | | mac-vw | Thu May 17, 2007 1:56 pm | | Well I have tried a pencil, a dowel and even borrowed some spreader pliars and nothing has yet been able to pull the shaft out. I guess that I am going to have to suck it up and buy the f#%@!& sixty dollar VW distributor drive shaft puller. Hate to spend that kind of money on something I will probably only use once, but what can you do. Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions. | | | glutamodo | Thu May 17, 2007 2:11 pm | | I've seen those tools go for a lot cheaper than 60 on eBay before, by the way. Try this search http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&...category0= | | | mailman | Thu May 17, 2007 2:20 pm | | Don't give up on the dowel idea yet. Try it again, but GENTLY rotate the engine just a touch each way as you lift carefully. One way should seem to help, and the other won't. I got a dowel that was too big for the hole, and sharpened it in a pencil sharpener. Then I put it in place in the hole and rapped it good with a hammer to get it to stick. I had to blunt the point of the dowel because at first it bottomed out in the hole. Rock and lift...rock and lift. Remember that the drive shaft will rotate as it rises and falls. Don't get me wrong....I didn't say it was easy. But neither is earning an extra $60! :wink: If this works for you, I'd be glad to split your savings....just send me $30. :lol: | | | nreslifer | Thu May 17, 2007 6:34 pm | | They're out of stock right now but CIP has them for 20 bucks.Trust me its worth it. | | | mac-vw | Fri May 25, 2007 2:20 am | | Well I have tried everything now, including getting the special removal tool and the shaft just will not come out. I don't know why we can't get it out. It is not like it is fused to anything because we have had the engine running so I know it is is rotating (it doesn't run well because it is off by just a little). I guess the only thing left to do is take the engine out and split the case (but i really, and I mean REALLY, hate to do this, it is like taking the project back to square one). On top of everything else I think that the transmission is leaking (I bought a completely rebuilt one for the car so this is a little frustrating). There is gear oil dripping slowly from between where the engine case and transmission case go together. As far as I know that would only be caused by a leaking transmission seal. Is this something that I could replace myself, or am I going to have to send it back to the builder and have him do it (which means even more down time for the project). I can't get to the car until monday so if there is anyone out there with some suggestion as to a way to get the drive shaft out I would greatly appreciate any ideas at this point. Other wise, come monday the engine is coming apart. I hope that all the bad luck I have been having lately means that some of you out there are having great luck, otherwise it is just not fair. | | | glutamodo | Fri May 25, 2007 2:58 am | | One thing that just popped to mind, is this. I wonder....... the old 40HP engines used a special drive gear that could only be removed when at #1 TDC. Is it possible that one of those might be fitted to your engine at some point? Let me see, I have a comparison pic in my photo folder, ah here it is. Look here, the "Mid-40HP" gear on the right, on the very bottom, you see the shape is different, instead of extended gearing, it is rather kind of a "D" shaped, if somehow you had one of those gears in there, then this could be your problem. -Andy | | | mailman | Fri May 25, 2007 5:22 am | | glutamodo.... Great comparison picture! That is exactly why I recommended that he try to lift while gently rotating. Start at #1 TDC, and gently rotate back and forth while lifting. All of a sudden you'll find the spot where it will clear on that little flat spot, and then you're golden! | | | glutamodo | Fri May 25, 2007 5:43 am | | Yeah, and that's also assuming, of course, that the engine was at #1TDC when that gear was originally put in there! But he should be able to tell that just by looking at the direction of the slot. -Andy | | | TWD | Fri May 25, 2007 6:44 am | | Remove the fuel pump. | | | Michael Fischer | Fri May 25, 2007 9:09 am | | TWD wrote: Remove the fuel pump. I fought one for 10 minutes before I did that. :lol: Take out the rod as well. I had to take out the pump flange too on the last one I messed with.. | | Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group |