Voltage Too Low Esp (Check Fuses.) - Sprinter

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• Thread starter Kikon
• Start date Jan 5, 2018

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Kikon

Member

Hello 2008 dodge sprinter 3500 ABS SRS ESP BRAKE lights pop up. I have tried lots of things. Mercedes dealer told me the abs pump needed to be replaced ($3040) I found I used one cheaper and didn’t work, I bought another one in eBay I instaled took it back to the dealer they reprogrammed Vin#match and still lights on. still show ESP voltage too low, the guys at the dealer aren’t sure they told me to bring it back to check It might be something else they said ?? look like they are guessing now. I have checked fuses I have change battery and alternator i have replaced the Y cable that runs from the battery to the starter and alternator, I have replaced the brake light switch. I really don’t know what else to do I’m going to take it to another dealer and see, please let me know if you have something similar thanks Eric 2

240508a

Well-known member

Re: Voltage too low Esp I can tell you exactly what your problem is. Look at the fuse for the ABS pump VERY closely. You will notice small (think tip of a small needle) black burn marks (may even help to use a magnifying glass). If this is the case, the upper and lower contact terminals for the ABS pump fuse simply need to be replaced along with a new fuse. I have fixed this issue many many times after another dealer or independent shop had slapped an ABS pump on it which didn't resolve the issue. K

Kikon

Member

Re: Voltage too low Esp 98firebird My first step before taking the van to the dealer was check the fuses , however I never took a closer look as you advised I have clean and change all fuses related to brake and abs after that i erase the code with my scanner tool and bum!! The lights Have gone. I test drive it for 25 miles and everything looked good i have to say thank you so much for making me recheck the fuses. M

Mikesask

New member

Hey got kinda the same problem. I got abs, esp, and traction lights on and go off on restart for a bit. I have noticed the accelerator goes funny just before. Ie you have to move it constantly or it just won’t work. Does yours do do that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)

Mikesask said: Hey got kinda the same problem. I got abs, esp, and traction lights on and go off on restart for a bit. I have noticed the accelerator goes funny just before. Ie you have to move it constantly or it just won’t work. Does yours do do that? Click to expand...

The traction system has a veto over applied engine power, so could be going active. Is the “slippery” /!\ lamp coming on when the power lags? The malfunction lamps are triggered when supplied voltage goes below 10 volts, which is why a bad fuse can trigger them. Could also be a wheel speed sensor corcuit going bad? M

Mikesask

New member

Nautamaran said: The traction system has a veto over applied engine power, so could be going active. Is the “slippery” /!\ lamp coming on when the power lags? The malfunction lamps are triggered when supplied voltage goes below 10 volts, which is why a bad fuse can trigger them. Could also be a wheel speed sensor corcuit going bad? Click to expand...

Slippy road don’t come on. Last time I checked alternator was only giving out min so could be that then might be dropping around 10v with everything turned on when driving ? I’m will stick a volt meter in tomorrow and check the fuses I might get it read I can never pick anything up with my scanner. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

220629

Well-known member

Mikesask said: Hey got kinda the same problem. ... Click to expand...

Something to consider. You don't mention model year. Is your Sprinter within the range where the infamous Wye cable has been a problem? vic M

Mikesask

New member

Aqua Puttana said: Something to consider. You don't mention model year. Is your Sprinter within the range where the infamous Wye cable has been a problem? vic Click to expand...

Mines 2005 316cdi 2.7 not read anything about the wye cable? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

220629

Well-known member

Mikesask said: Mines 2005 316cdi 2.7 not read anything about the wye cable? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Click to expand...

Doesn't apply to the T1N's. You are posting in the NCV3 section. vic A

Acer9

New member

Re: Voltage too low Esp

98Firebird said: I can tell you exactly what your problem is. Look at the fuse for the ABS pump VERY closely. You will notice small (think tip of a small needle) black burn marks (may even help to use a magnifying glass). If this is the case, the upper and lower contact terminals for the ABS pump fuse simply need to be replaced along with a new fuse. I have fixed this issue many many times after another dealer or independent shop had slapped an ABS pump on it which didn't resolve the issue. Click to expand...

I want to thank 98firebird for this info that resolved my issue. Im usually a lurker as I work on lots of stuff but got a login to post this in hopes it saves others grief. Code was low bake computer voltage. I do most work myself but have a friend who is sprinter mechanic. He thought I was going to end up replacing pump. It was the fuse even though it was not blown. To be specific look at the 40amp fuse as there are others that are srs related. When I pulled mine there was noticible pitting and scorching on the fuse blade contacts. Replacing it turned off what we had been calling the dash christmas lights. Lights didnt go out until I drove a few feet. 40 amps seems like a lot of current for those little fuses. I had a bad y cable and weak battery so that when srs/abs activated probably caused problem by drawing more current than designed. Less volts requires more amps. I had also been having a wierd issue were the starter wouldn't turn if it was really cold. No click, nothing, like I hadnt turned the key to start position. If I put a little heater blowing under the dash after 5 min it would start right up. Turns out the 25 amp fuse for starter motor had scorched contacts too. It always seemed to a delay when turning the key to engage the starter. Starts in the cold now and no pause when trying to start. I went ahead and replaced all fuses 25a or higher, van runs better than it ever has. Van is 2007 cargo with diesel 6 cyl. 230k miles. I bought it at auction for cheap; without this forum I'm not sure how I would have resolved all the problems we've been through. A

Acer9

New member

Heater blows great now too! I forgot to mention that the 30amp fuse for the blower was the worst fuse that wasn't blown that I have ever seen. Plastic was melted, contacts were scorched, it was a pain to remove. But right away I can tell the blower motor works like never before. I had previously taken the blower out and oiled it which helped some but not as much as I hoped. with new fuse it runs like it should. Now my van starts right up, the abs and traction stuff works great and it blows lots of air. So if replacing fuse fixed ESP you might want to check the other hi current fuses. Replacing all of mine was like sprinkling magic pixie dust. Even the cig lighter outlet now reads half a volt higher than before. Taught me to not just look for blown fuses but to check contacts esp if it seems low voltage related like a blower motor going too slow. I had been looking for bad grounds. I owe firebird a beer P

PaulWhy

New member

Thank you 98Firebird. I had the same problem and this was the solution. One note, however: You may be able to get a few more miles out of a pitted 40A fuse if you turn it over and re install it. I noticed on my pitted fuse that the pits were in different places on the 2 legs. One leg had the pits near the edge of the leg, the other leg had pits on the centerline of the leg. By flipping it over, the contacts hit on fresh surface, instead of the same old pits. I bought an Icarsoft MB II to diagnose this problem and erase the codes. So it cost me $150 to solve the problem. It gave me the code that led me to this thread.. I also had code 430A ( fault in brake light switch) I fixed this by pulling out the plunger on the brake light switch while the brake pedal is depressed. This resets the automatic adjustment feature. This was on a 2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500 CRD with ~180k miles. The symptoms were: ASB, BAS/ASR, ESP and (!)BRAKE lights came on all at once. No Check Engine light or OBD codes. No Cruise control.

glsski

New member

So a few weeks ago, I removed my lower fuse box to add a circuit for auxiliary lighting. I had to leave it somewhat loose for a few days. while driving one day the christmas tree display of lights came on bas esp traction control and red brake light. Code was for low voltage to esp control unit. I replaced 3 and four fuse in block 55/1 and drove for a couple of cycles. The code and the lights are now gone. Thank you for the information and insight into this issue. Fuses looked like they had no issue but I suspect the 40 amp was the issue. Thank You! 2012 sprinter 144 high roof with 262k miles. 2

240508a

Well-known member

Acer9 said: I want to thank 98firebird for this info that resolved my issue. Im usually a lurker as I work on lots of stuff but got a login to post this in hopes it saves others grief. Code was low bake computer voltage. I do most work myself but have a friend who is sprinter mechanic. He thought I was going to end up replacing pump. It was the fuse even though it was not blown. To be specific look at the 40amp fuse as there are others that are srs related. When I pulled mine there was noticible pitting and scorching on the fuse blade contacts. Replacing it turned off what we had been calling the dash christmas lights. Lights didnt go out until I drove a few feet. 40 amps seems like a lot of current for those little fuses. I had a bad y cable and weak battery so that when srs/abs activated probably caused problem by drawing more current than designed. Less volts requires more amps. I had also been having a wierd issue were the starter wouldn't turn if it was really cold. No click, nothing, like I hadnt turned the key to start position. If I put a little heater blowing under the dash after 5 min it would start right up. Turns out the 25 amp fuse for starter motor had scorched contacts too. It always seemed to a delay when turning the key to engage the starter. Starts in the cold now and no pause when trying to start. I went ahead and replaced all fuses 25a or higher, van runs better than it ever has. Van is 2007 cargo with diesel 6 cyl. 230k miles. I bought it at auction for cheap; without this forum I'm not sure how I would have resolved all the problems we've been through. Click to expand...

PaulWhy said: Thank you 98Firebird. I had the same problem and this was the solution. One note, however: You may be able to get a few more miles out of a pitted 40A fuse if you turn it over and re install it. I noticed on my pitted fuse that the pits were in different places on the 2 legs. One leg had the pits near the edge of the leg, the other leg had pits on the centerline of the leg. By flipping it over, the contacts hit on fresh surface, instead of the same old pits. I bought an Icarsoft MB II to diagnose this problem and erase the codes. So it cost me $150 to solve the problem. It gave me the code that led me to this thread.. I also had code 430A ( fault in brake light switch) I fixed this by pulling out the plunger on the brake light switch while the brake pedal is depressed. This resets the automatic adjustment feature. This was on a 2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500 CRD with ~180k miles. The symptoms were: ASB, BAS/ASR, ESP and (!)BRAKE lights came on all at once. No Check Engine light or OBD codes. No Cruise control. Click to expand...

glsski said: So a few weeks ago, I removed my lower fuse box to add a circuit for auxiliary lighting. I had to leave it somewhat loose for a few days. while driving one day the christmas tree display of lights came on bas esp traction control and red brake light. Code was for low voltage to esp control unit. I replaced 3 and four fuse in block 55/1 and drove for a couple of cycles. The code and the lights are now gone. Thank you for the information and insight into this issue. Fuses looked like they had no issue but I suspect the 40 amp was the issue. Thank You! 2012 sprinter 144 high roof with 262k miles. Click to expand...

I'm glad I could help all of you guys out it's my pleasure. I forgot about this thread and saw it popped up with the most recent reply and was happy to see so many people avoiding replacing that expensive ABS unit for no reason. J

JetsetJoey

New member

Re: Voltage too low Esp

98Firebird said: I can tell you exactly what your problem is. Look at the fuse for the ABS pump VERY closely. You will notice small (think tip of a small needle) black burn marks (may even help to use a magnifying glass). If this is the case, the upper and lower contact terminals for the ABS pump fuse simply need to be replaced along with a new fuse. I have fixed this issue many many times after another dealer or independent shop had slapped an ABS pump on it which didn't resolve the issue. Click to expand...

You saved me A LOT of troubleshooting & for that I thank you!! The trouble started when the van I'd just purchased had a 12V receptacle not functioning, so I began pulling fuses to see which one was bad. After pulling all of them & verifying that they were all good, I went to go for a spin & my instrument cluster was lit-up like a Christmas tree. The "Brake, ABS ESP & BAS" lights were illuminated. I surmised there was a correlation with pulling the fuses, as all was fine before I did that... BUT I COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT! Upon reading your post, I went to the fuseblock, removed the sockets, cleaned them & applied dielectric grease. Initially, I thought S.O.B., the lights are still on. Then I went for a spin & they turned off immediately... & so Thank You again!! Now, I just need to repair the 12V socket that has no output voltage, which will be a walk-in-the-park compared to the other issue! H

Herb Abendroth

New member

I too have to send a big THANK YOU to Firebird98 for the fuse suggestion. I have a 2011 Sprinter, 3.0l Mercedes diesel that gave me a fit. After replacing the 40A fuse all is well! K

Kmyrkle

New member

My fuse was also bad. I wish all the problems were this easy to fix. C

Critchie

New member

yup. same issue. low voltage at pump. pulled terminals. cleaned/tightened. replaced fuse. fixed.

Vernon973

New member

98Firebird said: Re: Voltage too low Esp I can tell you exactly what your problem is. Look at the fuse for the ABS pump VERY closely. You will notice small (think tip of a small needle) black burn marks (may even help to use a magnifying glass). If this is the case, the upper and lower contact terminals for the ABS pump fuse simply need to be replaced along with a new fuse. I have fixed this issue many many times after another dealer or independent shop had slapped an ABS pump on it which didn't resolve the issue. Click to expand...

Thanks 98firebird my sprinter had code CO3CO they wanted tro put a new ABS pump ....i tried you suggestion ? solved the problem. ...Thanks again ! 2

240508a

Well-known member

Vernon973 said: Thanks 98firebird my sprinter had code CO3CO they wanted tro put a new ABS pump ....i tried you suggestion ? solved the problem. ...Thanks again ! Click to expand...

Absolutely! Glad it took care of the problem

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