Rusty Nipples Need Replacing? - DRZ400/E/S/SM - ThumperTalk

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Rusty nipples need replacing?

• replace
• rust
• wheel
• nipple
• spoke

By J.M., May 27, 2021 in DRZ400/E/S/SM

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J.M.

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

I just pulled the rear tire off my drz-400s to replace and these nipples look pretty damn rusty. Should I replace them, or just duct tape 'em back up and call it good?

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DroppinDeuces

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

They are not going to get any better. Maybe hit each with a little penetrant for now, tape it back up, reassemble tire and ride while waiting for parts. Then fix later. (BTW, Rusty Nipples sounds like a good name for a porn star)

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Getting Weird

Posted May 27, 2021

Getting Weird

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Posted May 27, 2021

Ya basically want was just writing and

Have you tried spraying something like PB Blaster where the spokes screw into the nipples or just tried gently tried adjusting them a bit to see if they are seized?

Otherwise at some point you will probably need to deal with them if you need to adjust the spokes and can't

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J.M.

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

K, yeah both confirming what I was thinking - fix it now or wait until I'm up the rusty nipple river without a paddle. 

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J.M.

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021 (edited)

Seems like a good time excuse for a new Tusk Impact - if I get a rear Tusk impact, do I need to get a new front too? I can't imagine it would mess anything up, maybe there's something I don't know about physics and bikes, but I assume I can keep the OEM on the front and just do new on the back....and also, if I do a Tusk impact, do I need to get the Tusk hub or can I frankenstein the OEM hub with the Tusk wheel stuff?

Edited May 27, 2021 by J.M.

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bumtarder

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

As long as the Tusk rim is 36 hole you can reuse the stock rear hub and relace with a new spoke and nipple set. The old hub can be cleaned and cleared and new bearings and seals replaced.

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J.M.

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

Awesome, cuz that Suzuki OEM hub is like $330 something ?

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ThumpaGreg

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021 (edited)

JM, this is an incredibly common problem on dirt bikes after they have a few years on them. They will not get better, they will only get worse. My standard treatment process for these involves:

1) Wire brush as much excess rust away as you can

2) Sit the wheel upright and put some WD40 or similar penetrating oil in as many nipple holes as you can and leave it to sit for a few hours

3) Work the nipples backl and forth with a PROPER spoke wrench until they start to loosen off

4) Repeat the process all around the wheel until all the nipples are moving on their threads

5) Once they are all moving, remove each spoke nipple ONE BY ONE and put some anti seize compound on bothe the spoke threads and a dab inside the nipple

6) tighten each nipple back up again before you move on to the next

Once you do this to them all, you won't have any more seizing problems

Good luck!

Edited May 27, 2021 by ThumpaGreg incorrect spelling on one word

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ThumpaGreg

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

Oh, meant to saY JM...the rim itself looks pretty good. Provided it didn't have the dreaded alloy cancer, I'd be keeping it

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J.M.

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

Cool, yeah I'm just gonna grab the OEM spoke kit

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bumtarder

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021 (edited)

You can likely get a stainless rear spoke and nipple set from fleabay for the same or less money than oem and they will stay nicer looking for a long time.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353463850514?fits=Model%3ADRZ400|Make%3ASuzuki&epid=182566133&hash=item524c165612:g:5IsAAOSwFlpgfnz9

Edited May 27, 2021 by bumtarder

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J.M.

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

Sweet, ^^ just bought these ones ?

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bumtarder

Posted May 27, 2021

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Posted May 27, 2021

You may have to ream out the holes but no big deal. They are heavier duty than oem and have a very good reputation.

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hondamac

Posted May 28, 2021

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Posted May 28, 2021

The threads on the spokes and nipples is what matters. If the nipples move on the spokes I wouldn't worry about it. 

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David Burr

Posted May 28, 2021

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Posted May 28, 2021

Do not use duct tape. It has cotton fibers that hold moisture which causes rust.

Use the rubber bands like you are supposed to.

I know from expreience.

Duct tape, like baling wire and WD-40, is a great product, but often misused. 

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• 4 weeks later...

J.M.

Posted June 19, 2021

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Posted June 19, 2021

Dubya spokes and nipples installed after reaming out the holes with an 11/32 bit, which i only found one of at the depot.

So what about a wheel weight? There was one on the drz wheel but it won't fit with these dubya nipples, do I need one? Recommendations for a good one that will fit? 

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bumtarder

Posted June 20, 2021

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Posted June 20, 2021

You have several options for weights. You can order spoke weights from Suzuki, run balance beads or stick-on weights if you do a lot of street. If you do a lot of off road then I wouldn't bother due to low pressures typically used and rim locks, balancing is a lost cause imho.

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roleyrev

Posted June 20, 2021

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Posted June 20, 2021

32 minutes ago, bumtarder said:

You have several options for weights. You can order spoke weights from Suzuki, run balance beads or stick-on weights if you do a lot of street. If you do a lot of off road then I wouldn't bother due to low pressures typically used and rim locks, balancing is a lost cause imho.

Call me fussy, I try to balance as best as I can the dirt wheels for the adventure E bike and I also use rimlocks - as you have suggested somewhat challenging.  I don't like the rocking horse at highway speed.  I also carry a battery inflator and adjust tire pressures on conditions

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• 3 weeks later...

novice67l

Posted July 10, 2021

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Posted July 10, 2021

On 5/28/2021 at 6:57 AM, David Burr said:

Do not use duct tape. It has cotton fibers that hold moisture which causes rust.

Use the rubber bands like you are supposed to.

I know from expreience.

Duct tape, like baling wire and WD-40, is a great product, but often misused. 

I will defiantly second this statement. The old duct tape on the rim trick comes from the ISDT/ISDE where you have to change/repair tires yourself frequently during the 6 days race.  Time is the factor, and not dealing with a rubber strap moving around while installing the valve stem is the reason. I guess if you have a lot of flats while riding and/or like changing tires on the trail, tape might be handy.

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