Why Is Everyone So Sweet On Gouda Cheese Anyway?

The classic Gouda, with its characteristic sweetness and notes of caramel, has been produced since at least 1184, making it one of the oldest cheeses still being made today. It begins with milk, and milk starts with livestock. A drive through the Dutch countryside will make it clear why cows thrive here. During my trip to Holland in 2019, I felt like I was in a postcard—brilliant green grass, actual windmills, and herds of cows, peacefully munching away. Holland’s lush abundant pastures and mild temperatures make it an ideal environment for cows.

Gouda is named after a town in southern Holland—the town where the cheese was originally distributed, not where it was made. In the Middle Ages, certain municipalities held exclusive rights to weigh and sell cheese. Gouda was one of these towns, as was Edam, another Dutch city and cheese. Gouda fast became a hub for cheesemakers and farmers to bring their wares, where the cheese would be weighed and sold in the town square. The tradition continues today on Thursday mornings during the summer months when wheels of Gouda wrapped in wax rinds are proudly displayed on the city’s ancient cobblestones.

The name “Gouda” is not protected under European or international law, although Noord-Hollandse Gouda is PDO – protected designation of origin, Gouda Holland is PGI – protected geographical indication (a much larger territory than PDO) and Boerenkaas is TSG - traditional specialities guaranteed (not tied to geographic location - Traditional speciality guaranteed (TSG) highlights the traditional aspects such as the way the product is made or its composition, without being linked to a specific geographical area.). There are many high-quality Gouda-style cheeses, from Holland to the US and beyond. Here are a few to know and enjoy.

3 Gouda Cheese Producers

Beemster Cheese

If you draw a straight line north from Amsterdam, you’ll reach the Beemster Polder, a UNESCO World Heritage Site right along the North Sea.

The polder—which means “reclaimed from the sea”—came to be when Lake Beemster was drained in 1612 to fight constant flooding and create a place for agriculture. The mineral-rich soil, dense and brackish with sea clay from centuries under water, turned out to be tough terrain for farming. What did flourish on the polder was grass, perfect for grazing cattle. The herds who live off the incredibly nutrient-dense pasture produce some of the finest, creamiest milk in the world.

Beemster is a cheese company that takes the artisanal approach on a larger scale. The animals spend more than 180 days per year, for 10 hours per day, feasting on picturesque Dutch meadows—significantly more than the industry standard for grass-fed of 120 days per year for six hours each day. In the winter, the herds enjoy significantly roomy stables and plenty of fresh air and light. They even get massaged with special cow brushes (ahhh…). Beemster’s animals receive humane treatment and are never administered added hormones or antibiotics.

The company uses sustainable and artisanal techniques to make Beemster. They stir their curds by hand rather than with a machine. To craft Beemster wheels, they use brine that traces back from the mother brine from their co-op’s founding in 1901. Their cheeses mature slowly and naturally on wooden planks in historic stone warehouses, where their team of two cheese masters and 40 cheesemakers carefully coax out the flavors. While Gouda Holland PGI can come from anywhere in Holland, and as such, there are many brands that can use that logo and quality denomination, Beemster is currently is the only PDO Dutch Gouda in the USA and Canada, because it comes from such a restricted geographic territory / boundary.