200R4 Vs 700R4 | Chevy Nova Forum
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Chori said: 200 beacuase of what you already mentioned.Also, be sure to hook up the TCC solenoid for the lock up or else you will burn up the trans clutches, i found out the hard way. Click to expand...was that something you just forgot to do, or is it a modification needed on cars that are not original 4 speeds? I just picked up a Monte Carlo SS tranny with the upgraded parts. http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131353 Show more replies 0 Reply #4 · Sep 7, 2009 I replaced the TH350 in my '72 with a 200-4R. I had to modify slightly a TH400 crossmember, but all in all it was an easy install. Most importantly, make sure the TV cable is hooked up and adjusted correctly. You can run a lock-up converter (recommended if street driven) or non lock-up, but the trans has to be set up for them. You can't just switch from a lock-up to a nonlock-up converter. I have my lock-up switched to automatically lock in fourth gear only and unlock when I hit the brakes. #6 · Sep 7, 2009 can someone explain this lockup stuff? #7 · Sep 8, 2009 Along this subject line I was wondering if a B.O.P. 7004R OR 2004R has the same bolt pattern a SBC. #8 · Sep 8, 2009 The 200-4R comes with either a Chevy flange (fairly rare) and a universal fit flange (Chevy or BOP). Not sure about the 700. Lock up 101: Inside the converter on a lock up transmission are a set of clutches. When the trans gets to a predetermined set point an electric signal is sent to a solenoid and that allows fluid to go into the converter and apply the clutches hence "locking" the engine to the transmission. Transmissions that do this are the TH350C, 200-4R, 700-R4, 4L60 and other 4L series transmissions which are mainly later models. The reason for lockup is to minimize or eliminate slippage in the converter which reduces gas mileage and also produces heat. The earlier lock up converters were controlled by vehicle speed and manifold vacuum (load on the engine) and the later ones are controlled by a computer. #9 · Sep 8, 2009
ChrisBorsheim said: Pros / Cons? Apparently the 200R4 has a better gear ratio for the over drive. Thanks Click to expand...It's not the overdrive but the gear spread of the four gears that make it more attractive. If I could have found one I would have gone in that direction. The 700R4 is much more plentiful and in stock form is more reliable. Both can be built to handle good power(between 400 and 600) but GM chose to use the 700r4 for it's heavier duty and so now we have more of them to transplant. I see 700r4 and 4L60E trans going for under $100.00 on Craigslist almost daily. The 700R4 needs a new drive shaft and a different support beam while the 200 uses the same drive shaft but a new trans support as well. Each have issues with proper TV adjustment but the 700 has a larger support group of trans shops and parts. It's really up to what you can find as both are better than a th350 or powerglide. #10 · Sep 8, 2009 will my current 3speed B&M shifter work with a 700 or 200? #16 · Sep 9, 2009 Maybe. I have a pro ratchet currently, and converting it from 3sp to 4sp just meant moving a travel limit stop from one hole to another to add the low gear position, and using the correct hole on the transmission lever bracket that came with the shifter. With the right lever, PRND21 are the same spacing as PRND32, it's just getting into low on the 4sp that is the issue. If you only ever use PRND and don't care about getting into low gear, sure. You can figure it out by putting the trans lever into P, putting the shifter into P, then adjusting the cable so it lines up exactly at the trans lever. Take it back off, move both to R, and the cable should slip back on to the trans lever and line up exactly. Same test for ND32. If it doesn't line up exactly...it won't work, and it may damage your transmission. 0 Reply #11 · Sep 8, 2009 Some B&M shifters will allow you to swap the shifter gate to a four speed style. My B&M Pro Stick did. #12 · Sep 8, 2009 Good info on the bolt pattern, good to know. i did a search on the gear ratios and came up with the page in the link below. My sister is dating a guy that rebuilds transmissions. And from what he told me they can change the second gear ratio on the 700R4 so you don't have such a steep drop in the gearing between first and second. Just a thought. http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php #13 · Sep 8, 2009 (Edited)
72Orange said: My sister is dating a guy that rebuilds transmissions. And from what he told me they can change the second gear ratio on the 700R4 so you don't have such a steep drop in the gearing between first and second. Just a thought.http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php Click to expand...I've heard of the 2nd gear option but at the time it was $1200.00 extra! If it's dropped please let us know. 0 Reply #14 · Sep 8, 2009 I got three quotes to shorten a drive shaft.120.00,120.00 and 130.00.not that bad.The person I picked the tranny up from gave me the shortened drive shaft with the tranny.Saved 120 bucks. #17 · Sep 9, 2009 I am in the process of planning a 700R4 swap so I did some quick calculations: A TH350 using a rear of 3.90 has a torque multiplication factor of 9.83 Due to the steeper first gear the 700R4 using a 3.90 rear has a factor of 11.93 Therefore, in order to achieve a 11.93 using a TH350 you would need to have a rear of 4.73. Wow! The 700R4 really does have the best of both worlds! #18 · Sep 9, 2009 Has anyone put a 200R behind a stock (or relatively stock) 6 cyl in a 1st Gen car? I currently have a 194 6 cyl w/ a powerglide, and I like the idea of not cutting the driveshaft and picking up the extra gearing, but I'm wondering what trans crossmember (or modifications) would be needed? Is the linkage to the column shifter a pretty straightforward conversion as well? And dumb question, but I've always assumed that 194/230/250/292(?) engines had the same bellhousing pattern as a small block V8, but thought I would ask. #19 · Sep 9, 2009
Siva64 said: Has anyone put a 200R behind a stock (or relatively stock) 6 cyl in a 1st Gen car? Click to expand...I *think* someone around here has done that, can't remember who at the moment though. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. I think the tx mount point is the same as the TH350/PG, so you shouldn't need to modify that, and the driveshaft should be the same length. Only changes would be the shifter and adding the TV cable, and the wiring for the lockup if you are going that route. You don't have to connect the lockup. Think of it as a solid mechanical connection between the engine and trans (like a clutch/flywheel) instead of the fluid connection that the torque converter usually supplies. In 4th gear above a certain speed (usually 45mph or so) if there is power on the lockup wire...it locks up. If not, it behaves like any other torque converter, mostly connected, but a little slippage. The lockup is good because it eliminates the slippage, which makes for better gas mileage. You obviously don't want that solid connection when you come to a stop, otherwise the engine would stall. so the simple trick is to cut the power to the lockup circuit when the brakes are applied. Power to the lockup won't engage it in PRN123 (and 4th gear at less than the set MPH) so it's OK to have power on all the time...except when you slow down. 1 Reply #20 · Sep 9, 2009 I believe the correct model # is 2004R . #22 · Sep 10, 2009 I will be putting a 700R4 in my 62 with IL6 in a month or so as soon as I get the front end done and the motor back in, I can post some pics if anyone would be interested!... This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread. Insert Quotes Post Reply
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