Clutch Master Or Slave Issue? | Volkswagen Passat Forum

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valleyvw8 V I have a tdi with a 5 speed swap. Within the past few days the engagement position on the clutch has been moving higher and higher. Is the clutch master failing or slave failing? More details. Clutch worked flawlessly for the past 10 months. This past weekend when I pressed all the way to the floor it would not allow me to pull it out of gear, the clutch was still engaging, but if I let off the pedal an inch or so everything worked fine. Through out the week the sweet spot where the pedal works is coming higher and higher and the spot is narrower and narrower to the point now I basically cannot drive it. I don’t see any fluid puddles under the car. Clutch doesn’t slip while moving so my issue is engagement. Should I start by replacing the master or the slave? #1 · Jan 6, 2021 I have a tdi with a 5 speed swap. Within the past few days the engagement position on the clutch has been moving higher and higher. Is the clutch master failing or slave failing? More details. Clutch worked flawlessly for the past 10 months. This past weekend when I pressed all the way to the floor it would not allow me to pull it out of gear, the clutch was still engaging, but if I let off the pedal an inch or so everything worked fine. Through out the week the sweet spot where the pedal works is coming higher and higher and the spot is narrower and narrower to the point now I basically cannot drive it. I don’t see any fluid puddles under the car. Clutch doesn’t slip while moving so my issue is engagement. Should I start by replacing the master or the slave? Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jan 6, 2021 A hydraulic clutch should hold the same pedal height throughout the life of the clutch. There is a possibility of air is getting into the clutch circuit and not show any evidence of leaking. I know that from first hand experience. If the clutch line, hard metal line from clutch master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder is out of alignment at it's connection point(s) it will allow air to get into the hydraulic circuit and cause the pedal height to change positions. I'll say it now because someone else will eventually... Check the panel underneath the steering column, make sure its not interfering with the clutch pedal in any way shape or form. That is a known problem on our cars. If after checking and confirming no air is getting into the system I would then suspect a mechanical issue with the clutch itself. More specifically the pressure plate. That's the part with all of the springs on it and basically is what makes up the mechanical movement in the clutch. #3 · Jan 6, 2021 The hydraulic clutch will usually engage higher as it wears unless you have a self adjusting clutch (SAC). If it is no longer disengaging, it could be air in the system or a failing pressure plate (the fingers bend, so it does not release). I would start with bleeding the system if you don't find any issues under the dash or along the hose. #4 · Jan 7, 2021 I would hope it’s not the pressure plate, it’s a south bend and has less than 30k miles on it. It was a matter of 4 days that the clutch went from working fine to so much air in the system it basically won’t allow me to take it out of gear, this is another reason why I don’t think it’s the clutch. I would think it would take longer for something like to degrade to where it’s at now. It does feel like it has air in the system. How do I go about determining where air is getting in? And would a failing slave or master cylinder cause this? Or am I looking mainly at the connection points of the hard line? #5 · Jan 7, 2021 In most cases you'll be looking at the connection points. I forgot to mention, check the level your brake fluid. There is a little nipple coming off the lower back left corner, that is what feeds the clutch. If the brake fluid drops to low it's a possibility that air is entering through that way. Speaking from personal experience on my daily driver (98 GLX V6 5sp) air gets into the system often, especially on hot days down here in the valley of the sun. Almost every day I have to pump the clutch in somewhat rapid successions to get the pedal back up to the top. Even with this it doesn't leak a drop of fluid. This action should determine if you're indeed getting air into the clutch circuit. However, even though I have this problem, the clutch always disengages enough to shift in and out of gear. Me personally, if was a rapid time frame of failure, i would suspect the pressure plate, like maybe a broken spring/finger. To bleed the system, there is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, drivers side of the transmission bell housing. #6 · Jan 7, 2021 I did the swap myself so I’m pretty familiar with everything. Didn’t think it would be the fluid because there is a fluid level sensor, but will check it out. I’m going to check the pedal area for restrictions and all the connections, then will bleed it and see if that restores it and how long it stays strong. I’m hoping it’s not the pressure plate because I’m tired of pulling this trans 😡 What’s the value of a BSM deleted, 5 speed swapped BHW with a Malone stage 2 tune? 😅 asking for a friend #7 · Jan 7, 2021 Just be sure to have the back of the car higher than the front to bleed the clutch. Value is hard to say without knowing the condition on the rest of the car, suspension, brakes, paint, interior. Just that it would be worth more than a Tip trans version. Insert Quotes Post Reply
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