Somebody Please Help LT1 Cai Unknown Hose

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LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8 Community Links Social Groups Pictures & Albums Members Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Tag Search Advanced Search Find All Liked Posts Go to Page... Somebody please help LT1 cai unknown hose Reply Subscribe Thread Tools Search this Thread 08-01-2013 | 02:50 PM #1 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Somebody please help LT1 cai unknown hose So I'm somewhat new to this site, but not the concept of these forums. I've searched high and low for my problem to no avail. Installed a cold air intake in my 94 trans am, after which I've had problem after problem. Car will run for 30 minutes, good to. Then die when I come to idle as if it overheated... No smoke, no rich or lean smell. Gotta wait at least an hour before it starts up. I've reinstalled the intake twice, checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, checked the maf, pointed it in the right direction, pulled negative terminal before hookup, let it sit for 15 to reset, let it idle for 15 minutes then test drove it... same problem. Took it to a mechanic, he pulled a hose from the bottom of the car that was hanging... he had no idea where it went or goes... hose GM6148-m... I've taken pictures of my intake and if the hose.... one more thing... now my car gets hot, to the point my fan kicks on... does this periodically if I let it sit and idle for long periods of time... is that normal? I really love my lt1 and need her right... any help is appreciated, I've searched Google, parts numbers... this site, others... confused: Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-01-2013 | 02:58 PM #2 96LS1zee Teching In Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 27 Likes: 0 From: Fresno,CA Sounds more like a dying fuel pump than anything else. What do you consider "hot"? Where does it read on the gauge, or better yet, on a scanner? As for the hose, what diameter is it and how long? Reply Like 96LS1zee View Public Profile Find More Posts by 96LS1zee View iTrader Profile 08-01-2013 | 03:11 PM #3 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Quote: Originally Posted by 96LS1zee Sounds more like a dying fuel pump than anything else. What do you consider "hot"? Where does it read on the gauge, or better yet, on a scanner? As for the hose, what diameter is it and how long? Hot as in right before it hits the red, the fan cuts on and cools it down to about the 3/4 line... then it begins to slowly get hot again and repeats the process. Pictures coming soon for the hose... its a 5/32. No codes are thrown, a couple of days ago the SES light came on after I reinstalled the cai... I drove the car for 30 minutes, it cut out, I waited for 30 minutes and it came back on... SES light never came back. Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-01-2013 | 03:22 PM #4 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO This is the hose... Im guessing its a PCV hose... I have no idea really Attached Thumbnails Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-01-2013 | 07:24 PM #5 duh TECH Fanatic iTrader: (16) Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 1,501 Likes: 2 From: burbs of chi-town That's part of the problem. If you pulled that vacuum hose off and haven't done anything about the open ports, you now have a huge vacuum leak. That would be why the car runs fine for 30 minutes while cold (open loop). Once it hits closed loop the PCM can't keep up and the car does. Find out where the hose went and replace it. The reason the car gets that hot is because the primary fan isn't coming on. Look for a fan request from the PCM using a logger or scanner software. If there is no fan request it is most likely your temp sensor that needs to be replaced, verify what temp the PCM is seeing. If the temp is near what the gauge says then its most likely working. From there you move to the fan itself and the wiring associated with it. Reply Like duh View Public Profile Find More Posts by duh View iTrader Profile 08-01-2013 | 09:43 PM #6 ascastil Launching! iTrader: (2) Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 242 Likes: 7 Is this it, driver side intake manifold to egr valve? http://shbox.com/1/egr.jpg Reply Like ascastil View Public Profile Find More Posts by ascastil View iTrader Profile 08-01-2013 | 11:26 PM #7 96LS1zee Teching In Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 27 Likes: 0 From: Fresno,CA Quote: Originally Posted by duh That's part of the problem. If you pulled that vacuum hose off and haven't done anything about the open ports, you now have a huge vacuum leak. That would be why the car runs fine for 30 minutes while cold (open loop). Once it hits closed loop the PCM can't keep up and the car does. Find out where the hose went and replace it. The reason the car gets that hot is because the primary fan isn't coming on. Look for a fan request from the PCM using a logger or scanner software. If there is no fan request it is most likely your temp sensor that needs to be replaced, verify what temp the PCM is seeing. If the temp is near what the gauge says then its most likely working. From there you move to the fan itself and the wiring associated with it. It doesn't take a car 30 minutes to enter closed loop, usually happens in under 2 mins. It would also be unlikely a vacuum leak would cause a car to stop running when it warms up. If anything once in closed loop the car should start compensating for the leak and run better. As for the temperature. Believe it or not it could be normal. Early 4th gens didn't turn the high speed fan on until 235. That combined with a gauge that isn't as linear as it should be causes the appearance of high temp when its actually doing what it's programmed to do. The hose might be off the AIR injection, or maybe the charcoal canister. The elbow looks similar to the EGR solenoid but it has a filter on the one side. What year is the car and does it have all the emissions equipment still intact or has it been modified. Reply Like

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96LS1zee View Public Profile Find More Posts by 96LS1zee View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 01:17 AM #8 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Thank you guys for the replies... I actually sat under my car for an hour looking for possibilites and I found it. The tube plugged into a tiny box underneath the car. Had DelcoRemy201 on it. Looked that up and it turns out to be a vacuum switch, had two pertruding ***** in which this hose fit perfectly into. Next had to find out where the other end went and found that as well. The tech at O'Reilly said it went to my egr valve that connected to the throttle body. He, nor his supervisor could figure out the name of the part I actually need to order... pics provided, I, of course, did what I had to for a temporary fix until I can find out the name of the piece and where I can get... any help with that would be appreciated. Attached Thumbnails Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 01:23 AM #9 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Quote: Originally Posted by 96LS1zee It doesn't take a car 30 minutes to enter closed loop, usually happens in under 2 mins. It would also be unlikely a vacuum leak would cause a car to stop running when it warms up. If anything once in closed loop the car should start compensating for the leak and run better. As for the temperature. Believe it or not it could be normal. Early 4th gens didn't turn the high speed fan on until 235. That combined with a gauge that isn't as linear as it should be causes the appearance of high temp when its actually doing what it's programmed to do. The hose might be off the AIR injection, or maybe the charcoal canister. The elbow looks similar to the EGR solenoid but it has a filter on the one side. What year is the car and does it have all the emissions equipment still intact or has it been modified. Note I also found a sensor or something of the sort that was dangling unplugged underneath the car while I was down there, oval shaped, plugged into a long tube that was actually right under the battery... wonder if that has anything to do with that fan... might've been disconnected when I messed with the battery first time around for the cai install...but to answer your question, car is a 94, not cats, welded y pipe Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 09:37 AM #10 kamesama980 Teching In Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 13 Likes: 0 From: Columbus, IN If the car is just sitting, idling there's no airflow over the radiator to cool it off. ANY car will get hot under those conditions. It's only a problem if you're overheating while moving or even with the fans running. GM configured these cars to run fairly warm under the hood for emissions as others have mentioned (normal operating temp on the gauge=210 +/-, fans come on at 225 and 230 or higher IIRC) For the stalling/no-start, check or just replace the ICM (ignition control module) pretty common on GM and older fords for it to (in old age) fail as it gets warm but once it cools off, it's OK. I used to work in a parts store and sold them all the time. I've heard of a clogged fuel pump pickup sock acting similar but will usually restart in less than a minute as debris falls off it when the pump is turned off. Likewise it has nothing to do with closed/open loop. Even my old toyotas with 1 wire O2 sensors go into closed loop in 5 minutes. 4 wire O2 sensor equipped cars will be in closed loop VERY quickly. Can't help you with the hose. Reply Like kamesama980 View Public Profile Find More Posts by kamesama980 View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 11:18 AM #11 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Quote: Originally Posted by kamesama980 If the car is just sitting, idling there's no airflow over the radiator to cool it off. ANY car will get hot under those conditions. It's only a problem if you're overheating while moving or even with the fans running. GM configured these cars to run fairly warm under the hood for emissions as others have mentioned (normal operating temp on the gauge=210 +/-, fans come on at 225 and 230 or higher IIRC) For the stalling/no-start, check or just replace the ICM (ignition control module) pretty common on GM and older fords for it to (in old age) fail as it gets warm but once it cools off, it's OK. I used to work in a parts store and sold them all the time. I've heard of a clogged fuel pump pickup sock acting similar but will usually restart in less than a minute as debris falls off it when the pump is turned off. Likewise it has nothing to do with closed/open loop. Even my old toyotas with 1 wire O2 sensors go into closed loop in 5 minutes. 4 wire O2 sensor equipped cars will be in closed loop VERY quickly. Can't help you with the hose. Thanks, I was hoping I was just paranoid with the overheating issue. Any idea what the name of the plastic piece is in the pic I posted above? Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 12:58 PM #12 kamesama980 Teching In Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 13 Likes: 0 From: Columbus, IN Quote: Originally Posted by LoveThe1 Thanks, I was hoping I was just paranoid with the overheating issue. Any idea what the name of the plastic piece is in the pic I posted above? Dojabbey. Definitely a dojabbey. or maybe a thingamawhatsit. Now I'm not sure. Reply Like kamesama980 View Public Profile Find More Posts by kamesama980 View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 05:36 PM #13 1995blacktattop TECH Junkie iTrader: (2) Joined: May 2006 Posts: 3,452 Likes: 3 From: somewhere that doesn't get snow no it's the flux capacitor I remember several years ago some guy with a ford expedition posted a question about a vent tube in his fender and the guys had him convinced his flux capacitor needed replaced Reply Like 1995blacktattop View Public Profile Find More Posts by 1995blacktattop View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 05:55 PM #14 Bad Scuba Teching In Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 38 Likes: 0 From: SE TEXAS Quote: Originally Posted by LoveThe1 Thank you guys for the replies... I actually sat under my car for an hour looking for possibilites and I found it. The tube plugged into a tiny box underneath the car. Had DelcoRemy201 on it. Looked that up and it turns out to be a vacuum switch, had two pertruding ***** in which this hose fit perfectly into. Next had to find out where the other end went and found that as well. The tech at O'Reilly said it went to my egr valve that connected to the throttle body. He, nor his supervisor could figure out the name of the part I actually need to order... pics provided, I, of course, did what I had to for a temporary fix until I can find out the name of the piece and where I can get... any help with that would be appreciated. I have a picture of mine on a 93 Vette and one hose goes to a plastic hose that looks like it runs all the way back to the gas tank. I'm guessing it's a solenoid for the evap canister. Reply Like Bad Scuba View Public Profile Find More Posts by Bad Scuba View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 06:02 PM #15 Bad Scuba Teching In Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 38 Likes: 0 From: SE TEXAS Quote: Originally Posted by LoveThe1 Thank you guys for the replies... I actually sat under my car for an hour looking for possibilites and I found it. The tube plugged into a tiny box underneath the car. Had DelcoRemy201 on it. Looked that up and it turns out to be a vacuum switch, had two pertruding ***** in which this hose fit perfectly into. Next had to find out where the other end went and found that as well. The tech at O'Reilly said it went to my egr valve that connected to the throttle body. He, nor his supervisor could figure out the name of the part I actually need to order... pics provided, I, of course, did what I had to for a temporary fix until I can find out the name of the piece and where I can get... any help with that would be appreciated. It's a Canister Purge Solenoid and the piece that's broke looks like the Canister. Reply Like Bad Scuba View Public Profile Find More Posts by Bad Scuba View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 06:06 PM #16 Bad Scuba Teching In Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 38 Likes: 0 From: SE TEXAS I would think if you were careful you could tap that out and just install a metal nipple on there and replace the hose. If not you'll have to order a new Canister and hose. Reply Like Bad Scuba View Public Profile Find More Posts by Bad Scuba View iTrader Profile 08-02-2013 | 07:23 PM #17 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Thought my temporary fix would do the trick... gorilla glued the piece of plastic back on the canister and put the original hose back on... Drove fine for awhile, stopped for gas and it died. Just got through sitting at quiktrip for an hour waiting for the car to start back up again. So through searching I found the canister purge solenoid(thanks to badscuba)... and the charcoal canister... but not the name of the tube the piece of plastic that broke off is on, or the name of that piece directly. Reading up on it... I'm guessing the reason my car takes so long to start up after dying is because of the emissions being filtered out... No? Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-05-2013 | 06:02 PM #18 LoveThe1 Thread Starter Teching In Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 From: Kansas City, MO Quote: Originally Posted by Bad Scuba I would think if you were careful you could tap that out and just install a metal nipple on there and replace the hose. If not you'll have to order a new Canister and hose. Fixed for now, haven't replaced the hose yet but I did a temporary fix... turns out the hole was clogged with glue.. re did the fix.. car is running fine but my ses light comes on after awhile... Never when I first start the car but after about 30 minutes...hmmmmm Reply Like LoveThe1 View Public Profile Find More Posts by LoveThe1 View iTrader Profile 08-05-2013 | 07:54 PM #19 D-Man304 Teching In iTrader: (1) Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 39 Likes: 0 From: Morgantown, WV Quote: Originally Posted by LoveThe1 Thank you guys for the replies... I actually sat under my car for an hour looking for possibilites and I found it. The tube plugged into a tiny box underneath the car. Had DelcoRemy201 on it. Looked that up and it turns out to be a vacuum switch, had two pertruding ***** in which this hose fit perfectly into. Next had to find out where the other end went and found that as well. The tech at O'Reilly said it went to my egr valve that connected to the throttle body. He, nor his supervisor could figure out the name of the part I actually need to order... pics provided, I, of course, did what I had to for a temporary fix until I can find out the name of the piece and where I can get... any help with that would be appreciated. The other end goes to a little nipple on the tube coming out from the air pump. I think. Mine was cracked to hell so I just ripped it out along with that vacuum switch. The egr valve gets its vacuum from the intake. Dude at Oreilly has no clue what he is talking about, then again I could be wrong. Last edited by D-Man304; 08-05-2013 at 08:02 PM. Reply Like D-Man304 View Public Profile Find More Posts by D-Man304 View iTrader Profile Reply Subscribe Tags 95, canister, car, charcoal, closed, diagram, enter, fird, gm6148m, hose, long, loop, lt1, pontiac, purge, solenoid, taking, trans Back to Subforum LT1-LT4 Modifications View Next Unread A/C problem Thread Tools Show Printable Version Search this Thread Advanced Search Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Advanced Search Reply Closed Thread Share

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