Vacuum Hose? Please Help... | Chevy Impala SS Forum

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#1 · Dec 18, 2013 (Edited) Hi guys. I am currently having an issue with the Fleetwood and was hoping you can help me out. Let's say I come to a full stop - if I let go of the brakes the car takes off and can reach at least 20 mph. Almost feels as if I am accelerating and pressing on the brakes at the same time when I am at a STOP sign. It does cycle because it returns to normal at some point and then does it again. I was told to look for vacuum leaks so I started checking around. What I found was a brittle hose (GM 6148-M, 5/32) connected to a 90 elbow which is connected to a T which then connect to an Air Pump hose. I was trying to remove the hose from the elbow but it was so dried that I broke it off. I ran to the Impala and took pictures of the hose I am referring to. In the first picture you can see the hose connected to that T (90 degree elbow). You can also see the same hose running in the bottom. The second picture shows the same hose running down and connecting to some other part. The third is a diagram. I believe #15 is what I broke. The Air Pump is not connected because I installed Borla Headers which had caps that were welded shut. I've been running the car like this for a long time and I think that could be one of the reasons why I have the CEL on. My question is: could this be the culprit of what I explained earlier? The Air Pump is not connected to the intake manifolds anymore. It's just out in the open. How critical is this hose? It's no longer available and from what I understand, it was sold together with the T as a kit. The hose in the Impala doesn't look good at all either so I would have to buy for both cars. I added ugly looking arrows of the parts for better illustration. I would appreciate your feedback. Thank you

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3 Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Dec 18, 2013 I don't think that this hose will affect your idle speed. The air system that you are talking about just injects extra air into the exhaust system (the idea was to heat the catalytic converters up more quickly to have better emissions). Check the hoses on the intake manifold and especially on the passenger side of the throttle body. One of the hoses on the throttle body handles the vapors from the fuel tank...so they are prone to rot/crack. #3 · Dec 18, 2013 Only thing A.I.R. related that could do that is if you had the check valves still in place (the valves between the exhaust manifolds and the pump hard lines) and one or both failed. If they're gone and the headers are capped off, it's something else and yes, probably vacuum related. May want to check condition of EGR valve also. Most common vacuum leak sources at this point: carbon canister fuel and vapor lines (all) and PCV. Check the elbows connecting the fuel pressure regulator, EGR and climate control. Although the hoses themselves may be ok, the elbows can dry rot and split. This is particularly true of the canister purge solenoid elbow. It crumbles into black dust inevitably. I went ahead and sheathed all (non-fuel) vacuum lines w/ silicone hose years back to help protect and extend the life of the stock lines. If you've a scanner, see what the MAP is reading. #4 · Dec 18, 2013 (Edited) Cracked I found a cracked elbow connector that was barely hanging on. All of these plastic and rubber parts are so brittle they break easy. I broke the plastic tubing connecting the 2 parts I am pointing with yellow arrows :mad:

: What's the purpose of this tubing/hose? Are these parts even available? Could this be the culprit? As you can see in the first picture below there are other hoses in similar shape

#11 · Dec 19, 2013

96ChameleonSS said: I found a cracked elbow connector that was barely hanging on. All of these plastic and rubber parts are so brittle they break easy. I broke the plastic tubing connecting the 2 parts I am pointing with yellow arrows : What's the purpose of this tubing/hose? Are these parts even available? Could this be the culprit? As you can see in the first picture below there are other hoses in similar shape Click to expand...

Mine broke last week. It connects the throttle body to the evap purge solenoid. Car idled like crap and stumbled on low revs too. Go to Autozone and get HELP 46001 hose. The fitting on the TB fits perfect. The one that goes to the solenoid is a bit too big, so grab a small hose clamp to put over that end. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-GM-1987-1995-emission-hose/_/N-25vf?itemIdentifier=365543_0_0_ 0 Reply #5 · Dec 18, 2013 (Edited) that vacuum line goes to the pump connection to the exhaust manifold . the check valve is in that line to bleed of any vacuum when the pump is connected and working. since yours is deleted it is not doing anything and does not connect to engine vacuum. common failures with high idle is a vacuum leak. the PCV hoses and the PCV I found to be defective on my 1996. especially the 90 deg rubber formed hose at the PCV. check all vacuum lines. I use a vacuum guage and install in line with the line then pinch off the line and see if the vac holds. also good vacuum is about 17-21 inches..well anyway on my vehicles. also the vac should not jump should hold steady. at idle the egr should have no vacuum on it but the egr control solenoid does. then you also have the fuel regulator that can be defective. that vacuum line maybe sucking fuel out of the fuel regulator which is then defective . the egr if stuck open a little would screw up the vacuum but that would cause a low poor idling engine stalling and hard starts esp when cold. #6 · Dec 18, 2013 (Edited) Ok, so I will continue checking tomorrow. The fuel pressure regulator was replaced not too long ago because it was leaking. Now the Air Pump has not been programmed out; it's was left as is - disconnected, open to air as seen in the picture below:

Also, the part that I broke along with elbow is #549 in the Diagram.

#7 · Dec 19, 2013 with the pictures the idle issues is quite clear to me. replace all that cracked vacuum line . I see that the canister purge valve is with bad rubber top of intake passenger side . you have the line diagram so you should have no problems replacing all these leaks. engine should idle at 650 RPM . with alot of vacuum leaks your over 1000 rpm I guess .. not good for the brakes and transmission. #9 · Dec 19, 2013 OH man

j cat said: ...with alot of vacuum leaks your over 1000 rpm I guess .. not good for the brakes and transmission. Click to expand...

I can definitely tell you that it is affecting my transmission. Just today I was going over a bridge and as I was driving uphill I felt as if there was something wrong with the gears, as if getting stuck or something

. I better not drive it anymore. 0 Reply #8 · Dec 19, 2013 2 comments - 1) perfect reason why the air pump system should be discarded. 2) the right angle rubber piece shown in the pics can be replaced by a standard right angle spark plug boot. Perfect size and features the 2 different diameters like original which is sold as an assembly and very pricey. Maybe not even available now. This post has been deleted #10 · Dec 19, 2013 Thanks Sounds great but I broke the hard-plastic piece in 2 :eek:

0 Reply #12 · Dec 19, 2013 thanks Thanks 96WhiteCloud - I am going there early in the morning #13 · Dec 19, 2013

96ChameleonSS said: Thanks 96WhiteCloud - I am going there early in the morning Click to expand...

on the replacement hoses I use some tyraps/plastic ties to clamp the rubber parts to the plastic/metal hose fittings. these auto store replacement angled parts do not have as long a life as the OEM . on the PCV 90 deg hose I replaced with a plastic 90 deg fitting. 0 Reply #14 · Dec 19, 2013 Got it Went to Autozone this morning and got these two parts plus some small clamps. It's not perfect fit so I had to do a little cutting here and there but should fix the problem, at least temporarily

. Thanks everybody for your help.

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